Ferbz Posted September 19, 2017 Posted September 19, 2017 I thought I'd post some more progress pics as I inch closer to completion on it. I've been fighting with the paint(cant really see it in these pics)specifically the clear coat which is Duplicolor automotive Acrylic spray can clear. It's been on the model for months and it's still tacky! I found another thread of other people having the same problem with the same product. Maybe Duplicolor made a bad batch? I sprayed it over the summer and as part of my regular regiment I let the paint gas out and cure for at least a month before I started the wet sand/polish process. At the time it seemed hard enough as it took to the wetsanding/polishing just fine. Over time though I noticed finger prints and a tacky-ness to the clear as I handled it during the build. I have recently begun to dry sand it with super fine grit and clean/wax it as a last ditch effort. The finish is no where near where I wanted it to end up, but luckily the light gray color doesn't show too much of it's flaws. I don't plan to enter it into any contests, it's just a personal build. I'll have to figure out a way to minimize handling it as I get closer to final assembly....wish me luck with that.... Enjoy the 'posed' pics. I'm also adding some engine pics to share how the wiring/plumbing detail is coming along. I'm leaving out some detail like carb linkage, etc because I just didn't want to go that crazy with it
GMCMAN52 Posted September 19, 2017 Posted September 19, 2017 one nice looking Ford, color is just right
Spex84 Posted September 20, 2017 Posted September 20, 2017 This is so cool; I almost mistook it for a black and white photo at first!Awesome wiring job--I love the curve of the matching fuel lines to the fuel block on the firewall, and the little white spark plugs with boots and terminals...how did you make those plugs??
Ferbz Posted September 20, 2017 Author Posted September 20, 2017 one nice looking Ford, color is just rightThanks man! I've done my share of fancy paint jobs so I wanted to build a model with a simple paint scheme. Single stage Light gray seemed to suit the style and era of the car pretty well. During the build I watched alot of WWII documentaries and I've always liked classic B&W movies especially old sci-fi films. I think this influenced the color choice quite a bit. Green for the engine block and red for the interior seemed like natural choices too.
Lovefordgalaxie Posted September 20, 2017 Posted September 20, 2017 I had problems in the past with wax softening acrylic auto clear. What I did to fix it was to let the body in the sun a few hours, taking a look once in a while to prevent it from getting too hot. It's the UV that does the trick, so a food dehydrator won't work.
Ferbz Posted September 20, 2017 Author Posted September 20, 2017 This is so cool; I almost mistook it for a black and white photo at first! Awesome wiring job--I love the curve of the matching fuel lines to the fuel block on the firewall, and the little white spark plugs with boots and terminals...how did you make those plugs?? Ha! Thanks! I actually have plans to try to make B&W versions of these pics. Those plugs are actually my first attempt at making them. I basically took white spark plug wire and trimmed the insulation off of one end just long enough to slide the wire into the hollow insulation of the black spark plug wire end. I made sure to leave a small gap of exposed wire in between them to represent the metal tip of the plug. The other end of the white wire is glued into a larger diameter hollow black insulation to represent the hex head part of the spark plug. The inner dimension of this larger black wire insulation is the same as the outer dimension of the white wire so it fits. I drilled out the holes in the cylinder heads to match the dimension of this larger black wire insulation and glued them in(hope this all makes sense) It was extra work but I like the results since you see quite a bit of the spark plugs on flatheads. Here's an earlier shot of the motor that shows the plugs. Give it a try on your next build!
Mr. Metallic Posted September 20, 2017 Posted September 20, 2017 Give it a try on your next build! That is some of the most accurate flathead engine wiring I've seen with regards to simulating the plug/wire connection. Very cool technique. Thanks for sharing
Spex84 Posted September 20, 2017 Posted September 20, 2017 Dang, wish I'd thought of that myself; thanks for sharing your technique!I just completed a flathead recently and swore that I would not wire any flatheads again in the near future...but your trick could help make it less frustrating.My process was similar and involved using hex rod for the nut and white gel pen for the spark plug, but unfortunately the white plugs were scuffed during installation.
Ferbz Posted September 21, 2017 Author Posted September 21, 2017 Dang, wish I'd thought of that myself; thanks for sharing your technique!I just completed a flathead recently and swore that I would not wire any flatheads again in the near future...but your trick could help make it less frustrating.My process was similar and involved using hex rod for the nut and white gel pen for the spark plug, but unfortunately the white plugs were scuffed during installation.My pleasure, I'm always willing to share, especially if it's something I discovered myself! Hex rod is a great idea! I may try that next time instead of insulation. I'm guessing there was no way to touch up the white on your plugs once you glued them? Admittedly, I don't do that much detailing. I just got it my mind to detail out this flathead motor for this car. It doesn't have much else going on with it other than the bodymods; no open doors/trunk, no extra interior detailing, etc.That is some of the most accurate flathead engine wiring I've seen with regards to simulating the plug/wire connection. Very cool technique. Thanks for sharingThanks man! Most welcome. I'm sure someone somewhere has done this, I just happen to come up with it on my own and I like it enough to shareI had problems in the past with wax softening acrylic auto clear. What I did to fix it was to let the body in the sun a few hours, taking a look once in a while to prevent it from getting too hot. It's the UV that does the trick, so a food dehydrator won't work. Interesting. Thanks for the tip. I've never come across the problem in the past, although I was using a different brand(Plastikote, when they had a line of spray can Nitrocellulose Lacquer) I also feel like Nitro lacquer dries harder than Acrylic lacquer. Could be just me though...
Ferbz Posted September 22, 2017 Author Posted September 22, 2017 Looks cool!Thanks! I've had a pretty good vision for it rolling around in my head for some time. It's nice to finally have the finish line for this build in sight.
mod3l Lover Posted September 23, 2017 Posted September 23, 2017 I love kool builds like this!! It looks like aperiod beach racer or something. David S.
Ferbz Posted September 25, 2017 Author Posted September 25, 2017 I love kool builds like this!! It looks like aperiod beach racer or something. David S. Thanks! It's actually a build inspired by Doug Rice's 1:1 39 Ford Bonneville car as well some other early postwar custom cars that were built in the late 40's meant for speed AND style. Like his car, my Ford is chopped, sectioned, fenders widened, etc. There were a few custom cars that ran at the dry lakes in southern California in the late 40's and my build is meant to pay homage to cars like those. Hence the racing numbers, the hopped up 4 carb flathead, etc.
Ferbz Posted September 27, 2017 Author Posted September 27, 2017 I love the way this looks !!!Thanks! I wanted to build something really different and true to the era. I learned about Doug Rice's 1:1 39 Ford and loved the way it had so much radical body mods done but was also built for speed runs at Bonneville. Single stage gray color, racing numbers and hopped up flathead all make a unique statement to me.
misterNNL Posted September 27, 2017 Posted September 27, 2017 I just did a quick internet search using Doug Rice and 1939 Ford race car.It came up very quickly with black and white period pictures as well as some in color showing it in street trim with peep mirrors,Appleton spot lights and beautiful burgandy paint.Thanks! I wanted to build something really different and true to the era. I learned about Doug Rice's 1:1 39 Ford and loved the way it had so much radical body mods done but was also built for speed runs at Bonneville. Single stage gray color, racing numbers and hopped up flathead all make a unique statement to me.sThanks! It's actually a build inspired by Doug Rice's 1:1 39 Ford Bonneville car as well some other early postwar custom cars that were built in the late 40's meant for speed AND style. Like his car, my Ford is chopped, sectioned, fenders widened, etc. There were a few custom cars that ran at the dry lakes in southern California in the late 40's and my build is meant to pay homage to cars like those. Hence the racing numbers, the hopped up 4 carb flathead, etc. IThanks! I wanted to build something really different and true to the era. I learned about Doug Rice's 1:1 39 Ford and loved the way it had so much radical body mods done but was also built for speed runs at Bonneville. Single stage gray color, racing numbers and hopped up flathead all make a unique statement to me.Thanks! I wanted to build something really different and true to the era. I learned about Doug Rice's 1:1 39 Ford and loved the way it had so much radical body mods done but was also built for speed runs at Bonneville. Single stage gray color, racing numbers and hopped up flathead all make a unique statement to me.
mod3l Lover Posted October 5, 2017 Posted October 5, 2017 Ferby, I hope you take this build to amodel car show somewhere! I think it would be a big hit with peopleat events like that. It is sooo sweet!! David S.
Ferbz Posted October 10, 2017 Author Posted October 10, 2017 Ferby, I hope you take this build to amodel car show somewhere! I think it would be a big hit with peopleat events like that. It is sooo sweet!! David S.Thanks! There aren't many shows nearby, at least not nearly as many as there are in Nor. cal where I used to live, but I do plan to take it to a local IPMS show here in town this month.
Ferbz Posted October 10, 2017 Author Posted October 10, 2017 Well, here are a couple more pics of it pretty close to it's finished state. I still need to add rear shocks, steering linkage, license plate and I may try to make a Russetta timing tag for the firewall. Once all these little details are added, I'm gonna call it done and post better pics in 'Under Glass'.
Spex84 Posted October 11, 2017 Posted October 11, 2017 Were those taillights inspired by a 1:1 car or did you just get creative? Because I don't think I've seen that particular solution before, and it really suits the lines of the car! Just when I thought I'd seen every taillight solution on a '40...something cool and unique comes along. Bravo!
Ferbz Posted October 12, 2017 Author Posted October 12, 2017 Were those taillights inspired by a 1:1 car or did you just get creative? Because I don't think I've seen that particular solution before, and it really suits the lines of the car! Just when I thought I'd seen every taillight solution on a '40...something cool and unique comes along. Bravo! Thanks! I got the idea from Jack Calori's 1:1 36 Ford. That car had these flat tail lights that were on either side of the sunken license plate(see attached pic) His particular lights fit the space really nicely. I think they were from a late 30's Hudson but I'm not certain. I wanted to do something different, yet appropriate and era correct looking and just couldn't find the right solution. While digging through my stash of odds and ends, I came across these two pieces and thought they might work in similar fashion like Calori's 36. They stick up from the deck a little high and seem a bit blocky to me from the side, but overall they do the trick for me.
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