junkyardjeff Posted November 1, 2017 Posted November 1, 2017 Started on it over a year ago and had problems with paint and came close to using it for parts,rims are from my last order from Modelhaus and it took close to a year of soaking to get all the paint I put on it off.
Ace-Garageguy Posted November 1, 2017 Posted November 1, 2017 The old AMT '36 Fords are among my favorite kits. Nice to see you saving one instead of tossing it.Getting the ill-fitting tops on these to fit correctly, and filling the seams, can be a real bugger...but worth it.
junkyardjeff Posted November 2, 2017 Author Posted November 2, 2017 I was trying to find another body but going to build this one as a beater hotrod from the late 50s or early 60s,its going to have a stock looking body but with different bumpers. Might make some nerf bars or smoothed 40 bumpers.
Draggon Posted November 2, 2017 Posted November 2, 2017 So far so good, but I thought you didn't build anything but 40 Fords
junkyardjeff Posted November 3, 2017 Author Posted November 3, 2017 (edited) I like the 40s but time for a different year,going to get some putty this weekend and see if I can get where the roof meets smoothed out. Edited November 3, 2017 by junkyardjeff added more words
mod3l Lover Posted November 12, 2017 Posted November 12, 2017 I like the 40s but time for a different year,going to get some putty this weekend and see if I can get where the roof meets smoothed out. I have had good luck just filing away til the crack almost disappears at the beltline. But I only built 1 to be honest!! Will be watching this, and enjoying it!! Build thirsty my friends, David S.
junkyardjeff Posted November 12, 2017 Author Posted November 12, 2017 Its in primer and not sure on the color yet
Ace-Garageguy Posted November 12, 2017 Posted November 12, 2017 (edited) That gap between the turret top and the body seems to be healing nicely...though I'd respectfully suggest you check some photos of the real things to see how that line resolves across the back, and under the quarter windows.In your photo, it appears there's a double crease under the quarter glass that isn't on the real cars.Getting this seam exactly right is very often what makes a model of a '36 Ford extra special. Edited November 12, 2017 by Ace-Garageguy
DustyMojave Posted December 11, 2017 Posted December 11, 2017 (edited) Looks purty good to me Jeff! I have one on the side right now. An early 60s that came to me with only the chopped 3 window roof glued on and little else done. That's the roof I want and it needs far less work than yours at the seam. I'm making the X braces in the frame from strip and cut out the floor boards and exhaust. Technically, a 5-window should have a trunk, while the 3-window should have a rumble seat. So the kit deck lid handle should get moved to the bottom side and the hinges should be at the top. But that's picking nits and from where I live in the desert, we don't have troubles with nits.. I say anybody who wants it "corrected" should build their own. Edited December 11, 2017 by DustyMojave
junkyardjeff Posted December 11, 2017 Author Posted December 11, 2017 I have a extra 5 window top I probably will not use.
junkyardjeff Posted December 11, 2017 Author Posted December 11, 2017 I am still not sure on what bumpers I want to put on it,I would like to put nerf bars on but do not like the ones in the kit and do not like the stock bumpers and 40s are too wide.
DustyMojave Posted December 11, 2017 Posted December 11, 2017 " Technically, a 5-window should have a trunk, while the 3-window should have a rumble seat. " Ya know...ever since I wrote that, it's been bugging me that there WERE 36 5-window coupes with a rumble seat. So I googled it and found that there WERE. So I'm retracting that.
DustyMojave Posted December 11, 2017 Posted December 11, 2017 Nerf bars would be easy with straight 4mm x .5mm (.156" x .020") flat stock styrene and and 1mm (.040") rod. Cut the end of the flat bar at an angle to match the bodywork and glue the rod on. Then glue the back end of the flat stock to the side of the end of the frame rail so the nerf sticks out through the stock bumper notch in the body.
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