JeroenM3 Posted November 15, 2017 Posted November 15, 2017 (edited) So i got this one in the mail today, and started immediately with it as it needs to be finished this Xmas to be a gift for my mother. Sprues: test fit the hood on it immediately, getting it ready to be painted. I'm thinking of getting it painted bordeaux red, as its an original color for this car, and mom love's red cars as im out of the country to get another car next week, nice period of time to let the body dry and get hard I'll keep this updated along the way with plenty (probably alot knowing me) of pictures for you all to see (and judge ) Edited December 2, 2017 by JeroenM3
espo Posted November 15, 2017 Posted November 15, 2017 That looks like a very nice kit. I have always thought Jaguars were handsome looking cars.
BVC500 Posted November 16, 2017 Posted November 16, 2017 Nice! Working on a couple of these myself. FYI, the front and rear window trim molding is weak, and its a pain to scribe around the windows due to the curved surfaces.
dublin boy Posted November 16, 2017 Posted November 16, 2017 Yep.you hawe to bmf the windows as well as the body shell, although masking and Molotow pens should help make it easier these days I'd imagine.Also the photo etch type chrome side trims just wouldn't stick down for me, but if it's the recent re-release you should be ok.
mod3l Lover Posted November 16, 2017 Posted November 16, 2017 That looks like a very nice kit. I have always thought Jaguars were handsome looking cars. X2 for sure!! I have wanted that kit fora long time now. Your mom is quite lucky,she will love it I bet!?! Oh yeah? . . . . . lots of pics is great also!! David S.
JeroenM3 Posted November 16, 2017 Author Posted November 16, 2017 X2 for sure!! I have wanted that kit fora long time now. Your mom is quite lucky,she will love it I bet!?! Oh yeah? . . . . . lots of pics is great also!! David S.well i sure hope she will love it, after all they went to buy 1 of these (1:1 scale) but we found out my dad doesnt fit nicely in the car (hes exactly 2M is length), instead they bought a Mini Roadster JCW, but thats another story (are there any kits of these made, does anyone know?)Pix are incoming, been working almost all day today on the kit to get it ready before xmas!
JeroenM3 Posted November 16, 2017 Author Posted November 16, 2017 (edited) So here's the first update on the build how its going so far.... The kit itself is good and assembles real easy without to many problems, its an old kit so the instructions are not always as clear as the instructions of new tamiya kits (it wasnt really clear how each engine part was placed where, had to search for a couple hours on google to find the right pictures online to see where what went...) First i placed the hood on the body, held down by some tape on the inside to get it ready to get sanded ready for paint. Here are all the steps of paint ive done: I first started with a primer (tamiya fine surface primer), and layed down a mist of Tamiya TS37 (so close to te37 ), however this isnt an original factory color. Searched a while for those and found out the car was originally available in a maroon color. Searched for a close to this color tamiya can, no succes so i thought lets do it in lavender instead. Ran quickly to the local construction store to get some clear plastic to lay on the floor of our garage, and i checked the paint aisles real quick and found some paint that should work on plastic in wine red so got that aswell.The garage is heated so perfect place to paint, just had to take my moms Mini out so i would be sure as h*ll no spray would get on it, underneath are the pic's of the paint process, all comments are allowed, even when they arent that great, but thats the only way i can learn ofcorse! I think this will be enough space: Mist coat of the before mentioned TS37: And now directly onto the winered.. 1st layer: 2nd layer: 3rd layer (pics made 10 min after spraying the 3rd and final layer): With the can of paint next to it, for anyone thats intrigued, (still 10min after last coat was layed down): And here it is sitting next to me now with no clearcoat on yet, but been drying for roughly 2 hours when the pics were taken: Almost looks like a rolls royce silver cloud III body from this angle Engine bay painted: Engine fully assembled: Front drivetrain: Rear drivetrain: Would you guys sand the paint before clearcoat? ifso with what grit? the finest ive got right now is 1200... hoping to put the clear on before i leave this weekend for a week so it can harden fully during that week so i dont "lose" time when im back.. Like i said, ill make loads of pics, so i can give a USB stick with the build pics to my mom when i hand her the car. Soon more! Edited November 16, 2017 by JeroenM3
espo Posted November 17, 2017 Posted November 17, 2017 Great looking build so far, and YES please sand the finish before using any clear coat. First let me say I'm impressed by the neatness of your garage. After looking at the pictures of your paint job I wonder just how warm the air temperature was when you painted ? Did you warm the paint can at all before spraying ? How far away from the model were you when spraying ? All of these things can create the paint finish in the photos. On the sanding you might start with something in the 800 range. Just like on a 1:1 paint job it is a good idea to rinse the sand paper often and let the sand paper do the work and don't use much pressure. You want to get to the point where the paint finish starts to level and the finish becomes smooth. Since you are basically scratching the paint it will be flat looking. Then you could move onto the 1200 grit that you have and again sand until the paint starts to get a little sheen to it. For myself I usually get into the 3200 range before I start thinking about a clear coat. Not knowing the availability of sand paper to you I would suggest checking with an automotive parts store for the very fine sand paper or get some 5mm by 5mm sanding pads as the work the best. A well stocked model shop should have a collection of sanding pads. Hope this will help you with your paint job.
JeroenM3 Posted November 17, 2017 Author Posted November 17, 2017 Great looking build so far, and YES please sand the finish before using any clear coat. First let me say I'm impressed by the neatness of your garage. Thanks for the compliment, i must say i enjoy this build more than i would of thought i wud before getting started,the neatness iss mainly due to the large amount of cabinets in there (which are over 50% stocked with my detailing gear but ow well). After looking at the pictures of your paint job I wonder just how warm the air temperature was when you painted ? Did you warm the paint can at all before spraying ? How far away from the model were you when spraying ? All of these things can create the paint finish in the photos. Erm, i believe the garage itself is heated to 24 degrees celcius just like the rest of the house (its all connected floor heating), and the distance i think between 15-20cm orso? On the sanding you might start with something in the 800 range. Just like on a 1:1 paint job it is a good idea to rinse the sand paper often and let the sand paper do the work and don't use much pressure. You want to get to the point where the paint finish starts to level and the finish becomes smooth. Since you are basically scratching the paint it will be flat looking. Then you could move onto the 1200 grit that you have and again sand until the paint starts to get a little sheen to it. For myself I usually get into the 3200 range before I start thinking about a clear coat. Not knowing the availability of sand paper to you I would suggest checking with an automotive parts store for the very fine sand paper or get some 5mm by 5mm sanding pads as the work the best. A well stocked model shop should have a collection of sanding pads. Hope this will help you with your paint job. I'm going to the store tomorrow anyways to get some decal stuff, as the decals in this box are a absolute pain in the ass (ive started the dashboard today, not even halfway after 4 hours time orso, as it just wont work). ill check for sanding paper aswell while am at it. i got tamiya sanding paper in 800/1000/1200 grit, ill try and get some that go up to 3200 than, or some of those pads you are talking about and than finnish it all off with the tamiya clear if got laying around, Thx for the tips, now back to work on it
dublin boy Posted November 17, 2017 Posted November 17, 2017 (edited) The wood interior decals are difficult and need lots of microsol and a hair dryer. Edited November 17, 2017 by dublin boy
JeroenM3 Posted November 17, 2017 Author Posted November 17, 2017 The wood interior decals are difficult and need lots of microsol and a hair dryer.yeah i found out the hard way... i was busy with 1 small piece for 50 min before i almost gave up (i have no microsol or microset yet)... going to the store tomorrow to get something like the microsol/set combi, but then from tamiya themselves...
Modelbuilder Mark Posted November 18, 2017 Posted November 18, 2017 (edited) Nice, looking forward to more. had this for years, need to pull it out and get on it some day. Edited November 18, 2017 by Modelbuilder Mark
skid896 Posted November 24, 2017 Posted November 24, 2017 This is a kit I desperately want to build along with the Hasegawa Jaguar XJS, fantastic classic vehicles. The Jaguar Mk2 was the classic bank robbers car in the 60s in the UK, serious turn of speed for its size. Great build, I would agree with the comments above about sanding back before clear coat, flattens the paint and removes the orange peel.
JeroenM3 Posted December 2, 2017 Author Posted December 2, 2017 So im sad to say, i f***ed up... i was putting on the clearcoats today after almost 2 weeks of dry time, and i found out that there was a small wrinkle in the paint next to the hood... so now im busy stripping it so i can repaint it tomorrow as time is scarce with this build sadly... the mistake i found in the clear/paint: let the stripping begin... how it sits currently, ill continue tomorrow as its already 1:15 am here now... For those who are interested, i used Revells paint remover for this...
skid896 Posted December 2, 2017 Posted December 2, 2017 Gutting but it gives you another opportunity to make it look great. Jeroen, last time I found problems in the paint I laid it on too thick. Took hours to sand back and prime again, I tend not to strip the paint.
JeroenM3 Posted December 4, 2017 Author Posted December 4, 2017 So after MANY hours of stripping and sanding, it is now repainted. Ive gone for a different color now. The previous paint sucked. it wasnt the nicest in finishes, and it wasnt really smooth even with clear on it. I've now decided to go for Tamiya TS37, its a lavender shade but suits the car real good in my opinion The XJ220 body i already painted as i had to turn my garage into a temporary paintbooth again, and figured as i will be away for xmas it has a nice period of time to sit and get hard while im away. Topic will follow once i get really started on it! Now its on to finish the Jag and Porsche for xmas
JeroenM3 Posted December 6, 2017 Author Posted December 6, 2017 So spend some time on the MK2 again today, and happy to say im almost done with the build, just a few more of the metal-plastic parts to place on it, remove the tape from the windows (they are holding them inplace while gluing) Here is how she sits currently: Yes, alot of dirty fingers on the car, but those are ontop of the paint! not in the paint. They will come off with some waxing, which i will do when im completely finished with the car
JeroenM3 Posted December 12, 2017 Author Posted December 12, 2017 So i have finished this build earlier this week, here are the final pics: The rest can be found here:
Modelbuilder Mark Posted December 24, 2017 Posted December 24, 2017 Glad to see you got it done, despite some setbacks.
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