absmiami Posted January 17, 2018 Author Posted January 17, 2018 the CMK razor saws sold thru the UMM-USA site came in handy here taped guidelines on to the tail and sawed narrow slots to outline the lid over the fuel tank this will not open - the metal beneath is too thick and the tank underneath is not original on the restored car anyway
absmiami Posted January 17, 2018 Author Posted January 17, 2018 now to the bonnet - which was cast in two parts = with lots (unavoidable) of excess of wh metal buildup and flash using mostly hand drills, and large to small metal files, I am prepping the surface - top and bottom openings will be covered in mesh - and removing ALOT of white metal - have to reduce the thickness of the parts by about 50%
absmiami Posted January 17, 2018 Author Posted January 17, 2018 changes to bonnet for the '24 "hybrid" restored car - soldered over the rear inward louvers and filed and sanded everything smooth now starting to file channels on either end of the bonnet to retain the bonnet straps again - used tape to guide the filing
absmiami Posted January 17, 2018 Author Posted January 17, 2018 and yes - balsa wood can ignite - "so don't try this at home" 1.0 mil tube soldered w tix solder onto bonnet edge and then hand filed for the hinge Pico's casting uses - I think - burillium (?) which seem to be less prone to deform while soldering - higher melting temp? don't think you can do this on the Finecast white metal - has anyone been able to ?? always wanted to try this - Wingrove has made his bonnet hinges from brass for decades .... still not real time - but I'm catching up .... 1
Pico Posted January 18, 2018 Posted January 18, 2018 The metal is Britannia metal, which I used due to its low melting temperature, silvery look and ability to be highly polished. Mold was made of Smooth-on Mold Max 60. The white metal used by Wills Finecast is much softer, also floppy in comparison, lower melting point, much grayer color and cannot be polished nearly as well.
absmiami Posted January 18, 2018 Author Posted January 18, 2018 hope these load properly will try to re-post if not 1
absmiami Posted January 18, 2018 Author Posted January 18, 2018 not sure why these are loading upside down stupid computer tricks ... more bonnet prep more filing 1
absmiami Posted January 18, 2018 Author Posted January 18, 2018 bet files that are too large might load improperly ??
1500gp Posted January 19, 2018 Posted January 19, 2018 (edited) No problem, Andrew, the photos are correctly loaded. Edited January 19, 2018 by 1500gp
absmiami Posted January 19, 2018 Author Posted January 19, 2018 still upside down ? oh well managed to reduce the thickness of the bonnet panels to about .040 - which is reasonable how much metal have I filed off of this thing ? See the jar ...
absmiami Posted January 19, 2018 Author Posted January 19, 2018 it hinges - but I need more "hinge" - will have to file away some more metal 1
absmiami Posted January 19, 2018 Author Posted January 19, 2018 So I sawed apart a section of the right hand bonnet to make a second hinge - per the photos trying a smaller dia. brass tube - 0.70 mil - which in scale is about 3/4 of an inch closer to scale than the central hinge - but I wanted some extra strength at the center...
absmiami Posted January 19, 2018 Author Posted January 19, 2018 filing the slots on the smaller hinge - but using the same square files and soldering the second length of tube for the opposing hinge ...
absmiami Posted January 19, 2018 Author Posted January 19, 2018 hinges assembled for initial check strength is good - but I need some more "fold" will correct this while I add more details to the bonnet 1
mecklm Posted January 20, 2018 Posted January 20, 2018 I'm sure you worked through this already but the center hinge tube wants to be attached to the outside face of the hood while the secondary hinge wants to be attached to the inside face of the hood. That gets you the maximum opening. I see your dilemma in trying to solder the tubes in that manner without adding a bunch more parts. Are you wanting to leave the hood fully open or just enough to show what's inside? I think the way you accomplished getting the hinges on there in the first place trumps the ability to fully open it. I see a yellowish/gold tint to the metal. Is that real or just a consequence of lighting? Is the metal easy or difficult to file? In other words, are you constantly having to clean the file or is there sufficient hardness to the metal that keeps the file clean? Awesome build and I'm looking forward to seeing more progress. Mike
Pico Posted January 21, 2018 Posted January 21, 2018 I accidentally discovered a way to turn white metal to gold. Keep quite about it.
absmiami Posted January 22, 2018 Author Posted January 22, 2018 the slight yellow cast is due - I think - the light reflection on the cast surface more tweeks to the bonnet; a filet of evergreen plastic added to the bonnet edge strips of brass and plastic added to the underside of the bonnnet and drilling the first of many holes for the copper rivets 1
absmiami Posted January 22, 2018 Author Posted January 22, 2018 replaced a left sided louver that was had lost it's definition nickel silver rod filed and soldered into place
absmiami Posted January 22, 2018 Author Posted January 22, 2018 louvers added to the right side of the body these were super-glued in place, along with the rounded opening, which was filed from a chunk of cast metal experimenting with Lab-metal to fill in some casting imperfections
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