TS-13 on Zero paints

[joeb99]

Greetings all,

so today i started a new model decided to paint in some zero paints colour matched orange. i started off by applyind two coats of zero light grey primer followed by 4/5 light coats of orange using airbrush by the way. after letting the paint dry for 30 mins i decided to go ahead with clearcoating using some tamiya TS-13 in a spray can. however almost immediatly the clear coat seemed to "eat away" at parts of the paint revealing the primer below. the clear coat did not dissolve all of the orange paint but is noticible in most places. i have not come across this problem before and i applied paint in light coats to get a smooth finish. My only thoughts would be to leave the paint to dry out for longer up to a week before clearcoating to make sure the surface is absolutely solid. any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

many thanks joe

Edited January 8, 2018 by joeb99

[T-bone]

Hey Joe, nice color.  I believe Steve (Hiroboy/Zero Paints) recommends waiting overnight to clear coat. The TS-13 should be OK according to the Zero website. I use a lot of Zero and Gravity and I'll always wait until the next day to clear. Never had a problem. 

 

 

Edited January 8, 2018 by T-bone

[Samuel S]

Maybe the tamiya paint maybe little hotter than zeropaints that's why it may have ate through the "build up" spot

[Jim Whalen]

I've had problems using TS13 over Zero paints - even though it says its ok on their website.  I also had an issue when I used decanted Tamiya spray paint and then used TS13 to clear it.  Until I have some spare time to practice with different combinations of paint and TS13 on some scrap plastic I'm keeping away from it.

[ZTony8]

I've been told by a modeling buddy that Tamiya altered the formula for TS-13 so that any cans made after the recent period of unavailability are milder and won't destroy decals like the older formula was known to do on occasion. This may hold true for it's effect on some paints.

 

[joeb99]

thank so for the response guys. after some recent practice i have managed to get the two paints to work together, the main issue is drying time of the colour, having left the paint to dry for about a week the ts13 works with the zero paint and doesn't eat into it. as long as you use plenty of light coats you should be ok. using 2 coats of primer and 4 /5 colour followed by a further 2 coats of ts13 worked fine

[Anglia105E]

Hope you don't mind me chipping in at this point, and I am by no means an expert, but I deal with Steve at Hiroboy / Zero Paints in this country and generally have not run into any problems. Like you Joe, I apply two coats of light grey primer which is Zero airbrushed, then three coats of colour which is also Zero airbrushed, and then wait 24 hours and apply Clearcoat Lacquer, also Zero airbrushed.

All I am suggesting is that you could use Zero Paints airbrushed Clearcoat Lacquer as an alternative to Tamiya TS-13 rattle can. Just recently I am now experimenting with Halfords grey primer rattle can, and also I have used successfully some decanted cellulose Rolls-Royce paint on a resin bodied scale model car. The Zero Paints airbrushed colour is going on over the Halfords grey primer, and one last comment from me..... I have successfully chosen not to apply clearcoat of any kind and instead polished the body shell with Meguiars carnauba wax polish, applied with microfibre cloth and finished off with yellow duster. Produced a high gloss shine this way, and no clearcoat used.

David

[joeb99]

Hi David, i have now painted the body and cab and can happily say i have managed to get a good finish. this issue i had was being impatient and not letting the paint enough time to settle. ive painted an engine in chevy red and didnt use a clear coat/laquer as the finish was already perfect and i was really suprised at how well the paint stood up to being handled. 

your method of using wax polish sounds good especially as ive had trouble getting a consistently good finish with clearcoats. i will post some pictures of my work so far