Flathead

[NOBLNG]

On ‎3‎/‎4‎/‎2019 at 4:10 PM, Flat32 said:

What I need is a surface prep with no pigment that will etch the printed resin, a dip job. 

I know Spaz Stix makes a clear surface pre -prep #90050. I don't know if it would work on resin?

[Toner283]

Those carbs look amazing. Are you planning on selling any of these parts to the general public? Depending on price I would be interested in 16 or maybe twenty-four of those carburetors. Those would be just the ticket to make a traditional Rod engine pop.

[Flat32]

Two Canadians in a row.  I'm ordering the Spaz Stix pre-prep to try.

I won't sell them commercially, but while I'm working on them a few of the experimental prints can be available.

What would nice for me is if I could run a contest, like a community build, where the object would be to the best detailing possible.  I would simply send four to qualified contestants with the caveat that they return to me one of their best efforts for judging and they keep the rest. Of course I get to keep the entry.

[1930fordpickup]

Ray this is still some nice work you have going on here. The carb you painted is not that bad. 

What do you wash the parts with before you paint them?  

[Flat32]

I want it to look good from a scale two feet in daylight. I don't remember how i did the first one, but it involved black primer.  I need to nail down a repeatable process that gets me the result I seek.

[Flat32]

Printed carbs in gray using the Anycubic Photon printer and got the Z axis pixel lines that proved objectionable.  So went back to the Solus printer and printed with black resin and while it doesn't quite measure up to the red it is 95% as good on detail.  Where it really helps is eliminating painting the black bases and perhaps black wash.  I did one quickly, about five minutes, with a Gold Sharpie on the body, Bronze Sharpie on the brass fittings and Silver Sharpie on the linkage.  A little sloppy I'll admit, but passable as proof of concept.

Plating will be focused on copper electroforming to strengthen really thin parts and the chassis to keep it from warping.

Plan to resort to metal casting to make tie rod and drag link ends. I think I can do it with 3D printed molds and cast the ends directly onto wire that will be actual rod and link material.  There, I said it.  Now I have to do it to avoid embarrassment.

[Flat32]

Sidetracked by Landman.

 

[Flat32]

Didn't intend to revive old thread. 

Sorry

Edited April 7, 2020 by Flat32

[Paul Payne]

Augie Hiscano would have loved this. He was the metal master but I  think he would have loved 3D modeling and printing. This project is absolutely amazing. What's next- the Stuart Hilborn streamlined?

[dino246gt]

Great stuff! Cool project! Love it so far!

 

[landman]

On 5/21/2019 at 5:21 AM, Flat32 said:

Sidetracked by Landman.

What have I done now?

[Flat32]

7 minutes ago, landman said:

What have I done now?

Look at the date, May last year is when I got sidetracked with your Ardun V12.  Happened again with the B12.  No fault of yours and I'm not complaining.  I enjoy it.  Only problem I have is completing the final steps of the projects I start. I usually hit a little snag and then look for a distraction. I'm working on getting the V12 printed now. My effort to correct my bad habit.  

[landman]

11 minutes ago, Flat32 said:

Look at the date, May last year is when I got sidetracked with your Ardun V12.  Happened again with the B12.  No fault of yours and I'm not complaining.  I enjoy it.  Only problem I have is completing the final steps of the projects I start. I usually hit a little snag and then look for a distraction. I'm working on getting the V12 printed now. My effort to correct my bad habit.  

Oops! I thought I had seen that before. I got this one from Shapeways, yours is much more detailed, good for the dio, like the V8.