Joe Handley Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 (edited) Had a small problem with the Revell Snap-Tite New Beetle I've been messing with lately. After shooting it with Testors Blazing Black Lacquer last night and deciding to paint the center of the roof as well as the mirrors, mirror triangles, and B-Pillars Model Master Black Lacquer tonight. Weeeeeelllllllll, had a small problem. I shot the roof right after work, went and grabbed dinner for Dad and myself and let it sit until I was done eating. Brought it in and masked off everything to paint the sides and when I brought it in and unmasked it, I found the adheasive on the 3M yellow automotive tape messed up the paint on the roof a bit. Other than that, I am happy with the finish and will clear it once the roof paint is fixed! Edited July 13, 2018 by Joe Handley
espo Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 It looks as if the paint in area that you masked off had not fully cured yet. I'd first let it sit for at least 48 hours and then see if you can sand the area smooth and give it another color coat.
Joe Handley Posted July 13, 2018 Author Posted July 13, 2018 6 hours ago, espo said: It looks as if the paint in area that you masked off had not fully cured yet. I'd first let it sit for at least 48 hours and then see if you can sand the area smooth and give it another color coat. Will do, thanks!
Joe Handley Posted July 15, 2018 Author Posted July 15, 2018 The owner of the place I got the tape and primer I used from chimed in on my Instagram last night, he's pretty sure this is going to be a sand and reshoot too, but suggested trying an adheasive remover first, just on the offhand chance that might work.
Joe Handley Posted July 15, 2018 Author Posted July 15, 2018 Well, turns out it was91% Isoprpyl Alcohol I had, not 71%, kiiiiinda made things worse.........
High octane Posted July 16, 2018 Posted July 16, 2018 Uh-oh, well you still can sand and re shoot the roof and it may come out just fine. Don't give up on it just yet as it appears to be fixable.
Joe Handley Posted July 16, 2018 Author Posted July 16, 2018 (edited) 7 minutes ago, High octane said: Uh-oh, well you still can sand and re shoot the roof and it may come out just fine. Don't give up on it just yet as it appears to be fixable. I've already wet sanded it and it's ready to get masked and reshot tomorrow after work, so long as it's not as humid as it is now. Edited July 16, 2018 by Joe Handley
Art Anderson Posted July 17, 2018 Posted July 17, 2018 (edited) Just because your lacquer was "dry to the touch" does not mean that it was completely dry. This is where either real patience comes in--the thicker the lacquer coat, the longer it will take for it to dry thoroughly (lacquers harden by the evaporation of the solvent (thinner) and that can take some time--depends on things like air temperature, humidity, and for certain the thickness of the coat of paint. If a lacquer paint job isn't completely dry (some call that being "click hard" meaning that if you click your fingernails on the finish, no marks will be left behind--if the lacquer is still soft (but "dry to the touch", masking tape can do what you described, and show in your pics above. This is where a food dehydrator comes in so very handy--at say 120 degrees F, in about 90 minutes that lacquer should be as hard as it will ever get--I've been using one (an Oster dehydrator that I bought 8 yrs ago, and worth every penny of the purchase price! Art Edited July 17, 2018 by Art Anderson
Art Anderson Posted July 17, 2018 Posted July 17, 2018 On 7/15/2018 at 1:11 PM, Joe Handley said: The owner of the place I got the tape and primer I used from chimed in on my Instagram last night, he's pretty sure this is going to be a sand and reshoot too, but suggested trying an adheasive remover first, just on the offhand chance that might work. It's not the tape adhesive being stuck on the paint, rather it's the "roughness" of the adhesive, pressing it's surface condition into the yet-not-truly dry lacquer. Art
Joe Handley Posted July 17, 2018 Author Posted July 17, 2018 5 hours ago, Art Anderson said: It's not the tape adhesive being stuck on the paint, rather it's the "roughness" of the adhesive, pressing it's surface condition into the yet-not-truly dry lacquer. Art His suggestion to try an adheasive remover was more of a Hail Mary, figuring it wouldn't hurt since the other choice was wetsand and reshoot anyway. I may need to look into a dehydrator at somepoint too.
Art Anderson Posted July 17, 2018 Posted July 17, 2018 50 minutes ago, Joe Handley said: His suggestion to try an adheasive remover was more of a Hail Mary, figuring it wouldn't hurt since the other choice was wetsand and reshoot anyway. I may need to look into a dehydrator at somepoint too. Joe, for starters, I've been painting model cars with non-penetrating lacquer since the very first can of AMT Spray Lacquer I bought way back in 1963--AMT's lacquer behaved in exactly the same way, it flashes off (dry to the touch) but takes TIME to fully cure out (dry all the way through to the surface of the model being painted). In short, I experienced the very same thing that prompted this thread, and over time I've learned that this stuff simply takes longer to dry "click hard". FWIW, Food Dehydrators are not expensive, nor are they hard to learn to use. My Oster dehydrator cost me about $35 at Walmart 7 yrs ago, and I'm here to tell you that I've never made a better purchase for my model room that that. Art
Joe Handley Posted July 18, 2018 Author Posted July 18, 2018 4 hours ago, Art Anderson said: Joe, for starters, I've been painting model cars with non-penetrating lacquer since the very first can of AMT Spray Lacquer I bought way back in 1963--AMT's lacquer behaved in exactly the same way, it flashes off (dry to the touch) but takes TIME to fully cure out (dry all the way through to the surface of the model being painted). In short, I experienced the very same thing that prompted this thread, and over time I've learned that this stuff simply takes longer to dry "click hard". FWIW, Food Dehydrators are not expensive, nor are they hard to learn to use. My Oster dehydrator cost me about $35 at Walmart 7 yrs ago, and I'm here to tell you that I've never made a better purchase for my model room that that. Art Would this be similar to the one you have Art and did you have to get extra trays for it? https://www.walmart.com/ip/Presto-Dehydro-Electric-Food-Dehydrator-06300/20924338
Art Anderson Posted July 18, 2018 Posted July 18, 2018 (edited) 11 hours ago, Joe Handley said: Would this be similar to the one you have Art and did you have to get extra trays for it? https://www.walmart.com/ip/Presto-Dehydro-Electric-Food-Dehydrator-06300/20924338 Similar, but it doesn't look to be nearly as large as my Oster, which is 14" inside diameter, with 4 separate round trays each having a very open "grid" in their bottom. It's also pre-set at 125 degrees Fahrenheit which is more than safe enough for a polystyrene (or even most resin) body shells. It's quite accurately set for temperature, but in looking at them online, they are a lot more expensive that what I quoted above--upwards of $100 or so (there are some on eBay that may be less, but I suspect they may be used ones That said, the Oster works perfectly for me, so I chalk it up as one of my wisest "tool" purchases. In any event, it would make a great deal of sense to shop the retail stores, see what they have available, to ensure that you get one that is large enough to hold a model car body shell. Art Edited July 18, 2018 by Art Anderson
Joe Handley Posted July 18, 2018 Author Posted July 18, 2018 29 minutes ago, Art Anderson said: Similar, but it doesn't look to be nearly as large as my Oster, which is 14" inside diameter, with 4 separate round trays each having a very open "grid" in their bottom. It's also pre-set at 125 degrees Fahrenheit which is more than safe enough for a polystyrene (or even most resin) body shells. It's quite accurately set for temperature, but in looking at them online, they are a lot more expensive that what I quoted above--upwards of $100 or so (there are some on eBay that may be less, but I suspect they may be used ones That said, the Oster works perfectly for me, so I chalk it up as one of my wisest "tool" purchases. In any event, it would make a great deal of sense to shop the retail stores, see what they have available, to ensure that you get one that is large enough to hold a model car body shell. Art Ok, thanks Art! Oh, paint came out better this time, did end up with a finger print in it when I accidentally touched it while fixing a couple small spots on the hood and over the passenger door window. I should be able to sand those out with 1000+ grit paper and not have an issue with sanding through.
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