I'd like to see pics of completed engines from AMT's '60 Starliner, especially those using the dual 4 bbl or 3-deuce options.

[Monty]

I'm considering getting one of these engines for another project partly because I'm intrigued by the  induction setups AMT included, and I wanted to see how they look when assembled by good modelers.

If you have pics without the air cleaner installed, even better.  

Thanks!

 

[Jon Haigwood]

This one from a stalled build. Not finished yet. The air cleaner top is just set on it, it is not ready to be installed. Whether I would be called a good builder may be selective opinion. 

Edited December 18, 2018 by Jon Haigwood

[afx]

With the dual quads before wiring & plumbing.

[Deuces]

☺️

[Monty]

23 hours ago, Jon Haigwood said:

 Whether I would be called a good builder may be selective opinion. 

Here's what I noticed:  You and AFX took the time to research the correct color for the block & heads and do some nice detailing, where a less experienced builder might've just gone with Ford blue and called it good.   In addition, I got to see both variants built, and now I'll have to make a choice.  Thanks guys!

[afx]

IMHO this is the nicest engine I have ever seen in a mass production kit - highly recommended. 

[Casey]

Monty, don't rule out the AMT '62 Thunderbird's 390 FE-series V8, either. Very similar to the '60 Starliner's engine, modern-era tooling etc., with the tri-carb option. Some pics here: 

 

[Jon Haigwood]

1 hour ago, Monty said:

Here's what I noticed:  You and AFX took the time to research the correct color for the block & heads and do some nice detailing, where a less experienced builder might've just gone with Ford blue and called it good.   In addition, I got to see both variants built, and now I'll have to make a choice.  Thanks guys!

Just for my own satisfaction I research every aspect  of engine when I build it, down to the correct firing order and  #1"s location on the distributor. 

[Force]

5 hours ago, Monty said:

Here's what I noticed:  You and AFX took the time to research the correct color for the block & heads and do some nice detailing, where a less experienced builder might've just gone with Ford blue and called it good.   In addition, I got to see both variants built, and now I'll have to make a choice.  Thanks guys!

Way too many think all Ford engines are blue...this couldn't be further from the truth.
Ford has had several colors on the engines over the years, green, dark blue, bronze, red, black, blue are some.
They didn't start with Ford engine blue until the 1966 model year, before 1966 down to 1959 all engines were black with different colored valve covers and air cleaner depending on engine and engine version, most of the Y-block engines are red, and most of the flatheads are green, but some are dark blue or bronze.

Regarding the engine in the 1960 Starliner kits it's IMHO the best FE made in kit form so far and in the Custom and 2 'n 1 kits you have several options and lots of fun parts.

Firing order is essential (at least on real engines) but where the #1 is located on the distributor depends on how it was put in when it was mounted, you start with the #1 wire where the rotor arm points when the #1 cylinder is at TDC and continue to follow the firing order counter clockwise, 15426378 on a FE.
One have to keep in mind that when the scale on the harmonic damper is at 0 degrees (TDC) the engine can be either at #1 or #6 cylinder as the crank has to rotate two revolutions to fire all cylinders, so you have to make sure that it really is at #1...otherwise you will get a big surprise when you try to start it. 

[Jon Haigwood]

10 minutes ago, Force said:

One have to keep in mind that when the scale on the harmonic damper is at 0 degrees (TDC) the engine can be either at #1 or #6 cylinder as the crank has to rotate two revolutions to fire all cylinders, so you have to make sure that it really is at #1...otherwise you will get a big surprise when you try to start it. 

Over the years I have pulled up many a distributor and rotated the rotor 180 degrees. You can always rotate the engine by hand with the plugs out and feel or test for compression at no 1