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Oak Barrels Whiskey Club


QbanFam

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Weathered door and pergola over fountain. I also started the roof. For the windows I need to take a trip to Hobby Lobby to get some basswood strips. Anyone knows I can make the vehicle finish flat, without stripping the paint? It’s a die cast car.

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Yes Yordan, I noticed the title of your topic is ' Oak Barrels ' and the sign says ' Oak Barrel ' but I didn't want to criticise your spelling! That is why the wording of my comment was to use what I could see on the sign itself..... hoping you would notice the difference.

David

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2 hours ago, Anglia105E said:

Yes Yordan, I noticed the title of your topic is ' Oak Barrels ' and the sign says ' Oak Barrel ' but I didn't want to criticise your spelling! That is why the wording of my comment was to use what I could see on the sign itself..... hoping you would notice the difference.

David

Thank you for the hint. 

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Oak Barrel Whiskey Club sounds better IMHO.  However, I'd like to suggest more of an English Pub type sign, a plaque shape of sorts, instead of a long sign board.

Edited by Flat32
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26 minutes ago, Flat32 said:

Oak Barrel Whiskey Club sounds better IMHO.  However, I'd like to suggest more of an English Pub type sign, a plaque shape of sorts, instead of a long sign board.

I think you are right, Raymond. Oak Barrel sounds better. Is this the type of signs you are referring to? 

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Generally yes, but those hanging types are usually found along a street.  Your doorway doesn't face a street so a wall mounted plaque may be more appropriate and maybe not so elaborate. A club is more private than public.

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17 minutes ago, Flat32 said:

Generally yes, but those hanging types are usually found along a street.  Your doorway doesn't face a street so a wall mounted plaque may be more appropriate and maybe not so elaborate. A club is more private than public.

Ok. I get the idea now. Thank you.

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11 minutes ago, 1930fordpickup said:

Like a good whiskey it takes time to make something this good. 

Thank you, Andy. As a newbie I’m still struggling getting the right colors and textures to the right scale, for more realism. I have a long way to go before my eyes are trained to see in small scales.

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Yordan..... you were asking earlier how to make the paint finish of your diecast model vehicle flat..... I have two suggestions, one is that you could use clear matt varnish over the existing paint finish if you want to keep it the same colour, or you could use Revell Aqua Color to paint the model in any colour you like, which dries to a matt flat finish. ( I usually give the car body a coat of Yacht Varnish over the Revell Aqua Colour to produce a high gloss shine ).

David

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32 minutes ago, Anglia105E said:

Yordan..... you were asking earlier how to make the paint finish of your diecast model vehicle flat..... I have two suggestions, one is that you could use clear matt varnish over the existing paint finish if you want to keep it the same colour, or you could use Revell Aqua Color to paint the model in any colour you like, which dries to a matt flat finish. ( I usually give the car body a coat of Yacht Varnish over the Revell Aqua Colour to produce a high gloss shine ).

David

Thank you. I will try the clear matt varnish, as I like the colors on the truck. If that doesn’t work I might just get a Revell or any other brand kit similar to this truck and paint each part separately. I have an airbrush set, including compressor, that was given to me by my brother. I’m really intimidated to use it but I think it might give me better finishes. I’ll just have to order a small airbrush paint booth.

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I was also intimidated by the airbrush at first, and I was scared to use it, but once you try it you will find it quite straightforward really. The airbrushed paint dries to a flat matt finish also. Airbrushing is an acquired skill and just needs a bit of practice to build up your confidence. You could airbrush kit parts but of course you cannot airbrush the diecast car, not without masking off everything which would be difficult.

David

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9 minutes ago, Anglia105E said:

I was also intimidated by the airbrush at first, and I was scared to use it, but once you try it you will find it quite straightforward really. The airbrushed paint dries to a flat matt finish also. Airbrushing is an acquired skill and just needs a bit of practice to build up your confidence. You could airbrush kit parts but of course you cannot airbrush the diecast car, not without masking off everything which would be difficult.

David

Correct, David. I was looking at it and see if I could find a way around the diecast, to airbrush. 

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Windows are up. I went with big, tall windows, as I have seen on certain old buildings in old Havana, Cuba (my native land). I couldn’t find any information on dimensions, so I just kind of judged based on bystanders on pictures I used as reference. I might have gone a little too big.

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3 hours ago, Gramps46 said:

This thread is a real education.  Thank you for sharing Yordan.

Thanks a lot, Gary. I’m happy to hear I’m giving valuable information to the MCM community. I have obtained great information and feedback from many members, like yourself, and that’s really motivated me to challenge myself. As a new modeler, some times I wanna give up, but then I receive kind words like yours. Thank you very much.

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The Oak Barrel Whiskey Club is up. I know the title has an “S”’in Barrel, but a member like it this way instead, and I agreed. It is still wet from the washes, so it will look better once it dries, I think. I also added a vintage filter to my photo, using Vintage Scene Cellphone Appication.

1- I engraved the name with a soldering iron.

2- I drilled corner holes for the HO scale track nails I used as fasteners. 

3- A transparent raw umber acrylic ink wash applied.

4- A very diluted black ink wash applied.

5- Some random olive green water color wash applied, where it meets the other green areas.

(Note: All three washes where wet-on-wet. This way it mixes and transitions in a more natural way).

Sugestions are welcomed.

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Edited by QbanFam
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The frontage of your building has a very realistic look to it now. Interesting that you have tried a vintage filter on the photo, which is a heavy sepia filter. I have tried sepia filters on some of my photos, and also I sometimes set my camera to black & white mode. The filtered photos can look really authentic for the period feel, but it's nice to be able to see the colour version also. Your diorama has some marvellous colours, which of course don't show up in the sepia version. I find that black & white photographs for my 1958 diorama, and now the 1959 diorama produce a nice effect because most of the photographs you see of the original buildings of that time would have been black & white in any case. You could experiment with a more subtle sepia filter that is not so heavy..... ?

David

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46 minutes ago, Anglia105E said:

The frontage of your building has a very realistic look to it now. Interesting that you have tried a vintage filter on the photo, which is a heavy sepia filter. I have tried sepia filters on some of my photos, and also I sometimes set my camera to black & white mode. The filtered photos can look really authentic for the period feel, but it's nice to be able to see the colour version also. Your diorama has some marvellous colours, which of course don't show up in the sepia version. I find that black & white photographs for my 1958 diorama, and now the 1959 diorama produce a nice effect because most of the photographs you see of the original buildings of that time would have been black & white in any case. You could experiment with a more subtle sepia filter that is not so heavy..... ?

David

Thank you. I will experiment with black and white filters.

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