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Posted

To all,

Good day and hope everyone's well. I just started my AMT IH Transtar 4300 over the weekend. Got the cab, hood, engine, and interior painted. The cab, and hood are Model Master Daytona Yellow lacquer. The engine is Walmart generic brand Fire Red, and Walmart generic brand Flat Black enamels. The interior is Rustoleum Khaki enamel for the door panels, header panel, and floor. The seats, and the dashboard are Krylon Leather Brown enamel. I plan on painting the frame, and the associated parts in Rustoleum Gloss Grass Green enamel. The fuel tanks I am not sure if I will leave them chrome, or remove the chrome and paint them aluminum. In any event I will post pics shortly. Now to the perplexing part. The windshield is mis-molded and didn't fit flush. It was suggested to me to use a hairdryer on a low setting and try to bend it into proper shape. Well that didn't work and it snapped right in half. Therefore at an impasse. Do I try and use the windshield in its current state? Do I try and source a new windshield? Or do I try and substitute maybe clear acetate, or even clear covers that you would bind a report with? I have some of those at home. As always help would be most appreciated. Thank you.

Posted

Did it snap right down the middle. If it did you could just use the two halves since you have a center post. I use clear lay film from Hobby Lobby on my resin builds. That would work too.

Posted
10 hours ago, DRIPTROIT 71 said:

Did it snap right down the middle. If it did you could just use the two halves since you have a center post. I use clear lay film from Hobby Lobby on my resin builds. That would work too.

Brian yup right down the middle with a slight angle towards the right. I actually taped the two pieces together and used it as a template. Then used the clear cover for presentations for the windshield. Then trimmed it to size. Only question i have now would be what adhesive to use. Good old standard model cement or super glue. Thanks again for the reply.

Posted

Watch out for super glue cause it could fog the plastic. I'd use clear glue..AKA Elmer's white glue ...yeah the stuff from school days ,or Future  ( pledge) to bond the acetate to the kit cab

Posted

Thanks for the replies. I have the Testors canopy glue which I will try. I think I'm gonna cut another windshield out of the presentation cover and see if I can get it a teench straighter. Now of course as I think about more aspects of this build I am now stressing about doing the turnable axle and making the heat swage work properly. My problem is I worry too much.

Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, JerseeJerry55 said:

Brian yup right down the middle with a slight angle towards the right. I actually taped the two pieces together and used it as a template. Then used the clear cover for presentations for the windshield. Then trimmed it to size. Only question i have now would be what adhesive to use. Good old standard model cement or super glue. Thanks again for the reply.

You have to be careful with super glues because they will fog any finger prints that are on the glass. I do use it sometimes, but I also use two part epoxy. There are also some canopy glues as Jeff said which are basically a white glue, but I've never tried them. You may not want to go to this much trouble, but I sometimes make a frame for the window to slide into without using any glue on the actual glass itself.

Edited by DRIPTROIT 71
Posted
5 minutes ago, DRIPTROIT 71 said:

You have to be careful with super glues because they will fog any finger prints that are on the glass. I do use it sometimes, but I also use two part epoxy. There are also some canopy glues as Jeff said which are basically a white glue, but I've never tried them. You may not want to go to this much trouble, but I sometimes make a frame for the window to slide into without using any glue on the actual glass itself.

Brian how do you create the frame?

Posted
1 hour ago, JerseeJerry55 said:

Brian how do you create the frame?

I use evergreen styrene angle or channel made into angle. If you look through the window of my Brockway you can see the channel as the windshield post. The top was rectangle stock that I shaped like the inside of the cab leaving a groove for the windshield to fit into.

IMG_0256.thumb.JPG.549bf9b1e575289eabbb8b30c5111a50.JPG

 

IMG_0255.thumb.JPG.b140b0ad0c3a0432e4e8a82a87d43ea7.JPG

Posted
11 hours ago, DRIPTROIT 71 said:

I use evergreen styrene angle or channel made into angle. If you look through the window of my Brockway you can see the channel as the windshield post. The top was rectangle stock that I shaped like the inside of the cab leaving a groove for the windshield to fit into.

IMG_0256.thumb.JPG.549bf9b1e575289eabbb8b30c5111a50.JPG

 

IMG_0255.thumb.JPG.b140b0ad0c3a0432e4e8a82a87d43ea7.JPG

Brian,

Very cool thanks for sharing that tip. I do have one other question not related to the 4300 but rather AMT White Western Star related. How do I get the mirrors to assemble properly? They as I am sure you know very well are a nightmare. What glue should I use. Thanks and by the way very sweet 457. I always had a soft spot in my heart for the old Brockway's.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Good day all and hope everyone's well. Picking up from when I last posted on this project. I have started working on the engine (pics below), and have started the frame. I successfully (for me, so this is a big step) was able to configure the turning front axle. Only issue was the heat swage for the tie rod. Couldn't get it to work for me so I just dabbed a very small amount of Tamiya glue on each tip. It seems to be working just fine. Still need to detail the engine somewhat but it's early in the process. Still thinking about frame color choices. Have decided I am doing the fuel tanks in aluminum, and perhaps the stacks as well. Livery will be decided at the final detailing portion. 

IMG_2978.jpg

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Posted
58 minutes ago, DrKerry said:

Be watching this one Jerry, always liked the old IH's!!!!

Kerry as do I. I always (based on the ERTL Transtar kits instructions sheets, and decals) associate the make with the Midwest.

 

Posted
23 hours ago, JerseeJerry55 said:

Kerry as do I. I always (based on the ERTL Transtar kits instructions sheets, and decals) associate the make with the Midwest.

 

Right! Used to see them here all the time!  I have a couple of them in my small scale die cast truck collection but none in plastic. Hopefully they’ll re pop it some year before I die!

Posted

Isn't the IH V-800 engine supposed to be metallic blue.
I know the picture on the box side for the 4300 shows the engine red but those pictures are a carry over from the previous F-4270 kit wich had a Cummins V903, if you look closely it reads 903 on the valve cover, and I read somewhere that IH made Caterpillar, Cummins and Detroit Diesel paint the engines delivered to them red but when IH developed it's own V-800 came they painted them blue to distinguish them from the other engines.

Posted

In my haste to put the side windows in I messed them up. The canopy glue didn't work, and hit the glass with Tamiya cement to tack in place and the glue hit the glass. Not good. So I will have to search for replacements so project is slightly on hold.

Posted
On 8/10/2019 at 11:59 PM, Force said:

Isn't the IH V-800 engine supposed to be metallic blue.
I know the picture on the box side for the 4300 shows the engine red but those pictures are a carry over from the previous F-4270 kit wich had a Cummins V903, if you look closely it reads 903 on the valve cover, and I read somewhere that IH made Caterpillar, Cummins and Detroit Diesel paint the engines delivered to them red but when IH developed it's own V-800 came they painted them blue to distinguish them from the other engines.

Yes I believe so but did it in red prior to knowing about the blue. Oh well.

Posted

If your talking about the small side glass, I'd recommend making them from any plastic container,  or acetate sheet. Usually it's much thinner appearing much more in scale .

 

Posted
21 minutes ago, gotnitro? said:

If your talking about the small side glass, I'd recommend making them from any plastic container,  or acetate sheet. Usually it's much thinner appearing much more in scale .

 

Jeff thanks. BTW I just noticed you're from Huskytown. To me one of the more forgotten/under appreciated makes in the history of the heavy truck industry. Shame they went belly up in 1977. Loved the 759, 762, and 457's when I was a teen back in the mid 1970's. One of these years I'll pony up for a resin kit.

 

Posted

Hey Jerry , ya the plant isn't far from where I live 

I didnt know much about trucks till being on here, then touring the museum really gives an appreciation of their popularity.  Several gentlemen in our classic car club actually worked at the plant ...its awesome to listen to their stories 

Posted
13 hours ago, gotnitro? said:

Hey Jerry , ya the plant isn't far from where I live 

I didnt know much about trucks till being on here, then touring the museum really gives an appreciation of their popularity.  Several gentlemen in our classic car club actually worked at the plant ...its awesome to listen to their stories 

Jeff,

I'd love to visit it someday. Got into the heavy duty trucks as a 14 year old back in 1975 and 2 years later Brockway ceased operations. That was a shame. A couple of outfits from my era Penn Yan, and DeFazio Express ran Brockway units. Ahh those were the days.

Posted

Worked on the frame last night. Engine went in fine, however the radiator fought me a bit. She's in now but slightly out of alignment. Will work on her tonight AGAIN. Hopefully I can tame the beast and get her to line up a bit better. Also had a question about the exhaust that goes on the right side from the turbo. After I attach it to the turbo where do I cement it on the right side of the frame? Or do I not have to?

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