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Posted

Mark, this build reminds me of the Model Factory Hiro builds I'm seeing here only yours has even more detail and all scratch built.  I'm amazed.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I made all the switches, more machined aluminum, and got them installed…

I haven't decided if I'll add the labels I made for them yet.

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Edited by Scale-Master
  • Like 2
Posted

I reworked one of the kit knock-offs and used it as a master and cast four new ones.   Tamiya lacquers for the color, aluminum powder for the light shading to enhance the anodized effect.

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The rear axle ends are blackened brass and the front spindle ends are machined aluminum.

This is the left rear and right front.

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  • Like 1
Posted

Surprised these awesome updates aren’t getting more replies (although I didn’t reply either…)

Small machining question, Mark (from a complete noobie at turning parts) - for something like the fire extinguisher are you using a specially shaped cutting bit to make that nice curve (and the dome on the underside) or are you really good at knob-twiddling?

  • Like 1
Posted
6 hours ago, CabDriver said:

Surprised these awesome updates aren’t getting more replies (although I didn’t reply either…)

Small machining question, Mark (from a complete noobie at turning parts) - for something like the fire extinguisher are you using a specially shaped cutting bit to make that nice curve (and the dome on the underside) or are you really good at knob-twiddling?

Mark always leaves my "speechless" with his incredible work. So that why I have nothing to says. LOL

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted

The cast finish on the knockoffs ….  Are you mixing the alu powder with the paint -  if so are you doing anything special to clear your air-brush ???   
nosey ….

Posted (edited)
On 9/25/2021 at 9:45 PM, CabDriver said:

Surprised these awesome updates aren’t getting more replies (although I didn’t reply either…)

Small machining question, Mark (from a complete noobie at turning parts) - for something like the fire extinguisher are you using a specially shaped cutting bit to make that nice curve (and the dome on the underside) or are you really good at knob-twiddling?

No special cutting tools were used on this, it's more about getting the cutting angles where I want them.  I was able to make it with what I had on hand and didn't even use a compound slide.

 

Edited by Scale-Master
  • Like 1
Posted
19 hours ago, absmiami said:

The cast finish on the knockoffs ….  Are you mixing the alu powder with the paint -  if so are you doing anything special to clear your air-brush ???   
nosey ….

I just dry brush the powder.

Posted
43 minutes ago, Scale-Master said:

The band and clip for the hose are made of tin.  Red is LP-21 Italian Red.

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Mark, how do you like the new LP paints? It looks like it went down pretty nice!

Posted
12 hours ago, Scale-Master said:

They are great Pete.  And they brush well too.

Wow, a lacquer that brushes on?  That is a surprise. What ratio do you use to thin it to blow it through an airbrush?   Thanks for the information Mark. 

Posted
10 hours ago, Pete J. said:

Wow, a lacquer that brushes on?  That is a surprise. What ratio do you use to thin it to blow it through an airbrush?   Thanks for the information Mark. 

It's about the same as any other paint, but there is no exact ratio.  Some colors want more/less reducer than others.  You can thin them with hardware store thinner, but for the best flow and gloss the Tamiya brand is the way to go.

Posted

I drew up and printed a set of decals that match the real counterpart. sUuUtQb.jpg

Including the two different era and company certification tags. 

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As well as the printing on both sides of the hose… 

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Made the gauge too; yes there is a needle and an acrylic lens.

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Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, Scale-Master said:

It's about the same as any other paint, but there is no exact ratio.  Some colors want more/less reducer than others.  You can thin them with hardware store thinner, but for the best flow and gloss the Tamiya brand is the way to go.

I had heard that Tamiya recommended starting with 1:1 straight out of the bottle but I have never seen anything directly from Tamiya to confirm that.  Just thought you might have some other information.

Edited by Pete J.
Posted
9 hours ago, Pete J. said:

I had heard that Tamiya recommended starting with 1:1 straight out of the bottle but I have never seen anything directly from Tamiya to confirm that.  Just thought you might have some other information.

Most of the colors can be shot without reducing, but they cover so well it makes more sense to reduce and put a thinner layer down plus get more paint from the bottle at the same time.

Posted

The last touches were the safety pin wound out of nickel wire and the safety wire wound from .007 fine insulated wire. 

Total parts count is at least a dozen.

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