Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Started working on another max wedge car. 

I trimmed the rear floor pan, and cut out the rear wheel tubs, so I could move the leaf springs forward. Got the wheels centered in the wells. I plan on glueing some thin sheet styrene back into the wells. Pretty much the same route as the 63 Fury. 

Still using Fireball rims, but I decided to go with Speed City 9” grooved cheater slicks. I know they are not legal for the era, but they fill the rear wells nice. 

Fireball Carter AFBs, and a Missing Link manifold will be added.,

Still want to get the ride height higher all the way around. Using a 15 inch tire in front, as compared to a 14, so it should look better sitting higher, with a larger tire. 

Plan on a red on red color, with fender well headers in this one. I have a lot of work ahead yet.,

82231873-7F35-4AC4-93E1-3AB466947CDB.jpeg

CEC772D1-6007-45E8-B188-83BB48055E60.jpeg

C5691B5F-A687-4AAB-8E86-A80EDFEBE658.jpeg

DAAE34FD-97E0-4D32-9B13-6AA3EFDE5A72.jpeg

403D01F8-B1DE-4A49-8200-6AE17F566F1F.jpeg

Edited by Brutalform
Posted

Yes, the Lindberg chassis. 

Ive bought up a Color Me Gone kits, and they really aren’t that expensive. 

I also have a couple more max wedge cars coming up. A 62 Savoy, and a 63 Dodge 330, both resin bodies. I also have a JoHan 62 Fury, but I might hold onto that for a while. 

Posted
13 hours ago, Brutalform said:

Yes, the Lindberg chassis. 

Ive bought up a Color Me Gone kits, and they really aren’t that expensive. 

I also have a couple more max wedge cars coming up. A 62 Savoy, and a 63 Dodge 330, both resin bodies. I also have a JoHan 62 Fury, but I might hold onto that for a while. 

Thanks Tom, I've got an old Color Me Gone parts kit that I can steal the chassis, and engine from. Are there any other mods needed to make if fit?

Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, RichCostello said:

Thanks Tom, I've got an old Color Me Gone parts kit that I can steal the chassis, and engine from. Are there any other mods needed to make if fit?

Yes, for this particular car, trimming the rear of the floor pan up to the fuel tank. Trimming the front, and constant  rechecking. This should get the front tires centered in the wheel wells. 

Then the rear leafs need to be moved up a bit so the rear wheels are centered in the wheel wells. Had to cut the front portion of the rear wheel tubs out, for tire clearance. Then I’ll patch in some sheet styrene to make it look nice again.  

Its a bit of work but well worth it.

Also I would recommend a new intake manifold from a Missing Link. The engine will look far more correct with it over the kit supplied manifold. 

But this all depends on where you want to go with it. I’ll use the entire kit parts as supplied when I decide build the Color Me Gone Car. I don’t plan on really getting serious on that build. 

Hope this helps. 

Edited by Brutalform
Posted
2 minutes ago, Brutalform said:

Yes, for this particular car, trimming the rear of the floor pan up to the fuel tank. Trimming the front, and constant  rechecking. This should get the front tires centered in the wheel wells. 

Then the rear leafs need to be moved up a bit so the rear wheels are centered in the wheel wells. Had to cut the front portion of the rear wheel tubs out, for tire clearance. Then I’ll patch in some sheet styrene to make it look nice again. 

Thanks, looks very doable, even for a hack like me.

Posted
3 minutes ago, Brutalform said:

That’s what us “hacks” do best... lol

I hear that! It will be a while before I get going on mine. I got it in a trade, and someone in the past was going to turn it into a 4dr., and started to scribe one of the back doors, so I'll need to do a little body work first.

So make sure you post a lot of build pics, so I can see how it's done right!

Posted

No problem Rich. I was just at the bench cleaning up a resin kit of a 1963 Dodge 330. It will have a max wedge as well. This is the one I was really looking forward to building. You have to admit.. the Dart is pretty ugly. So I decided to play with this one for a bit. Probably clean up the 62 Plymouth Savoy soon too. 

C2B5D659-13EC-4C04-90FF-703DF9B17ADE.jpeg

6AF3A7A5-E46D-4CF8-88BD-D601617C9FBD.jpeg

19857394-805F-414F-8F32-AB275306CBE7.jpeg

Posted

Ok, as much as it pains me to cut a nice rare old kit like this, it’s chop away. The old radiator support has to go, so I can get the Lindberg piece to fit in. 

Also cleaned up a lot of the flash around the roof emblems and on the body in general. 

78D503D5-B4FE-4C75-89E0-E4474912D9EF.jpeg

787102E4-4A45-4AA9-A06C-EF8D04CD2D53.jpeg

6D254296-B0D8-4B18-9E9B-46BFB09A9CAA.jpeg

Posted

I wouldn't worry about modifications like the radiator brace.

It will only enhance the model.

I don't always remove the radiator brace, but one of the first things to go on my builds is those God awful screw posts!

 

Making "improvements" is not the same thing as hacking one up to make a custom or the like in my opinion.

I chopped the snot out of the interior on my '65 Fury, but it was was brought back as close to stock as possible and I believe it will elevate the value of the model rather than diminish it.

 

 

 

Steve

 

 

 

Posted

Working on the engine, while I’m waiting for the glue to dry on the chassis. 

First Id like to say that Joseph (Fireball) makes the best carbs out there.. bar none. For anyone wanting to use his carbs, you gotta get yourself a razor saw. 

F1F04C69-8548-4FEF-A714-A4848910DE8C.jpeg

Posted

Cut carefully, and after every couple of passes, check your work. The idea is to keep the saw flat so you don’t ruin any of the fine details on the mounting plate of the carbs. 

D3862067-67B4-4052-B43F-34B3F14D7AE8.jpeg

04885369-3E6F-4CBB-83C8-8169D72A8E4E.jpeg

Posted

Also sanded the Missing Link manifold to fit the engine. Since I’ll be using epoxy to fasten it, a little bit of resin should fill the small gaps in the front, before painting. 

7DF55199-9A77-4910-B5A2-F600BF0C7E8B.jpeg

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Brutalform said:

The carbs come cast to a block, which will need to be cut carefully with the saw.

I removed my first one with a much larger saw than yours, but it went okay. :)

 

My approach was to cut deep enough to leave the thin plate under the carb intact with the carb base.

That way you can mitigate the possibility of any damage at the base of the carb.

And then a few passes on some sand paper will remove that plate and leave a nice flat base.

 

 

Steve

 

2v2ECHhLFxwUbWP.jpg

2v2ECHhG5xwUbWP.jpg

2v2ECHhqrxwUbWP.jpg

 

 

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
Posted (edited)

 

I have a few of those razor saws lying around. I use them for lager miter cuts, or if I’m cutting a chassis to back half a pro street car. But this little one I I’m using is very versatile for small jobs. It’s easy to get into areas like removing the crew posts radiator supports, etc. 

Oh and by the way 

GUESS WHOS GOING TO CHRYSLERS AT CARLISLE TOMORROW? 

This guy. 

I plan on getting a lot of pics. 

Edited by Brutalform
Posted

great work and thanks for the little how-to's. build is coming along great. a while ago, I started building 62 thru 65 factory max wedge and hemi cars. kind of stalled out though.

and yes, take lots of pictures!!! great show.. prices will be out the roof on everything!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...