68 Chevelle SS 396

[Nox]

So I didn't get to painting yet by the wife let me take over the garage so I have a legit workstation now.

[LL3 Model Worx]

2 hours ago, Nox said:

So I didn't get to painting yet by the wife let me take over the garage so I have a legit workstation now.

That's awsome man, you will soon find that on that very nice desk top you have there... your working room will quickly turn into an area the size of your hand...

It's only natural!! Lol!

But seriously, that's awsome you have a dedicated spot to work... it really makes a big difference when you can setup/organize a good "workflow".

Really helps one (me anyway) build more "clean".

Cool spot Logan.

 

[Nox]

1 hour ago, LL3 Model Worx said:

That's awsome man, you will soon find that on that very nice desk top you have there... your working room will quickly turn into an area the size of your hand...

It's only natural!! Lol!

But seriously, that's awsome you have a dedicated spot to work... it really makes a big difference when you can setup/organize a good "workflow".

Really helps one (me anyway) build more "clean".

Cool spot Logan.

 

Thanks Bo! Definitely easier than basically working out of my lap! Not even worried about building a vented spray box now, I can just throw a tarp behind me to protect the car from overspray.

[LL3 Model Worx]

5 minutes ago, Nox said:

Thanks Bo! Definitely easier than basically working out of my lap! Not even worried about building a vented spray box now, I can just throw a tarp behind me to protect the car from overspray.

Heck yea man. 

Getting my own hobby space was a prerequisite and agreement with my wife when we bought our house... I told her all I want is 1 room and the garage... the rest she could paint pink for all I care.

So, I got what I needed... before that, I lived in a 1room add on at my grandparents house... so I literally worked off a piece of 2×12 on my lap on my bed!! 

Nothing like "finding" that #11 (with your butt cheek) you broke the tip off of... while you are asleep!

Now, I do not have a professional setup like some of these guys who have been at it forever do... but I feel I have a very respectable place to do my building and painting with more than enough paint and supplies to probably last me several lifetimes.

Now if I only had more space for kits and guitars!

If you ever need paint just let me know... I can certainly help in that department.

Now, get to work on that Chevelle... I wanna see that thing done!! Lol

[Nox]

Second coat primer on the body and base coats done on the floorplan, suspension and radiator subassemblies. I also hit one of the door panels and the pedal group too.

The garage is cold but it has a small gas space heater and a large wood burner in it. I didn't have much wood so I threw what I had in it and let it cook. Only got up to about 52°F, which is at the minimal end of the temp range for the paint, so I was taking turns waving the painted parts over the space heater to help things dry a bit faster. Getting more wood tomorrow and gonna load it up to hopefully get temps into the 60s, then do second coats.

I have noticed on areas like the radiator grill and fuel tank, which have very thin contour lines, the paint doesn't want to get into those little gaps. Would it be recommended to keep spraying those areas until they fill? Or just touch them up by hand? The only liquid paints I have are the testors enamels, so I'm wondering if they will look noticeably different. If I do it by hand, would it be best to just do the entire areas of the parts, such as the whole fuel tank area of the floorpan, and not just the gaps?

[james460]

I heat up all my paint, including primer, in a hot water bath, just put the can in hot tap water, seems to help with coverage.

[Nox]

4 hours ago, james460 said:

I heat up all my paint, including primer, in a hot water bath, just put the can in hot tap water, seems to help with coverage.

I agree the temp probably had something to do with it. I was walking around with the spray can I was about to use in my pants pocket for about 20 minutes prior to using it so it would get it warmed up (and it certainly did while standing by the furnace!), but I think it was probably more the overall ambient temperature being what it was.

I just got home from Hobby Lobby and picked up some supplies, had the burner going the whole time so it's fairly warm in there now. Picked up some enamel thinner and a few of the small-tipped high dollar paint brushes for detailing. Also snagged some tack cloth, scribing tools and what may be my body color. They only have Tamiya spray cans in the primer, but they have the Model Master auto lacquers in several colors so I picked up a can of Chevy Nassau Blue Metallic. I realize that specific hue was not a stock color for the car, but I like it.

Just got back into the garage and we are pushing 60°F (hung a box fan for circulation and drying assist) so time to get to work!

[Nox]

Did a 1000 grit wet sand to smooth out some rough spots and sanding marks I missed last night (first pic).

Got a good second primer coat on the body, hit the seats, door panels, dashboard and did touch up coats on the floorpan/suspension and radiator. Did another dry assembly of things to see how it all looks and I'm ridiculously anxious to start gluing. Going to leave the body alone for a bit and focus on painting the smaller parts so the assembly can get underway.

[Nox]

Started painting the engine block. Got seats glued together, back seat and pedals glued in. I didn't really notice before, but I thought the rear inner fender wells would be covered by the seat and door panels. Going to touch them up a hair.

I may have thinned the orange a bit too much, because it was pretty (extremely) watery going on. I may end up putting a second coat on it with less thinner depending on how it looks when it dries. Using thinner with the enamels is new thing for me, as when I was younger I always just dipped right into the jar and went to town with it. But that's probably also why it was always a gummy mess...more to come!

[Nox]

Got some more painting done, seats fitted as well. Maybe it's the fan, maybe it's the temperature, maybe it's the thinner, but this enamel is drying a lot faster than I remember. Or maybe I'm just not globbing it on like I used to. Either way, hoping to start assembling the rest of the engine maybe tomorrow.

[LL3 Model Worx]

1 hour ago, Nox said:

Got some more painting done, seats fitted as well. Maybe it's the fan, maybe it's the temperature, maybe it's the thinner, but this enamel is drying a lot faster than I remember. Or maybe I'm just not globbing it on like I used to. Either way, hoping to start assembling the rest of the engine maybe tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

Coming along very nicely Logan, really looking good!

The Model Master enamels are pretty much all I use for both body and detail painting.

I can certainly remember being a kid and globbing it on and it being a gloopy mess... never dried etc... thinning and painting in thin coats allows the solvents to gas out more quickly because the layer is thinner so there is shorter distance the solvents have to travel to escape and thus "cure" the enamel.

I personally use Klean Strip brand  lacquer thinner to thin the enamels and they flash out MUCH quicker... I can usually handle a part within an hour or so if I'm careful.

Regular ol mineral spirits or "odorless paint thinner" works well also and is MUCH cheaper than a bottle of Testors brand thinner, which imo is highway robbery. The spirits just will not dry as quick as the lacquer thinner.

Happy modeling, I'm enjoying watching this take shape.

 

[NOBLNG]

On ‎12‎/‎17‎/‎2019 at 4:43 PM, Nox said:

I agree the temp probably had something to do with it. I was walking around with the spray can I was about to use in my pants pocket for about 20 minutes prior to using it so it would get it warmed up (and it certainly did while standing by the furnace!), but I think it was probably more the overall ambient temperature being what it was.

Best thing I did was get a couple of cheapo food dehydrators. I have one in the house for drying glue joints, small painted parts, and filler. the other one is in the garage and I put the paints that I intend to use in the very near future in there to warm up. After spraying, the parts go in there too. 

[Nox]

9 hours ago, LL3 Model Worx said:

Coming along very nicely Logan, really looking good!

The Model Master enamels are pretty much all I use for both body and detail painting.

I can certainly remember being a kid and globbing it on and it being a gloopy mess... never dried etc... thinning and painting in thin coats allows the solvents to gas out more quickly because the layer is thinner so there is shorter distance the solvents have to travel to escape and thus "cure" the enamel.

I personally use Klean Strip brand  lacquer thinner to thin the enamels and they flash out MUCH quicker... I can usually handle a part within an hour or so if I'm careful.

Regular ol mineral spirits or "odorless paint thinner" works well also and is MUCH cheaper than a bottle of Testors brand thinner, which imo is highway robbery. The spirits just will not dry as quick as the lacquer thinner.

Happy modeling, I'm enjoying watching this take shape.

 

Thanks Bo. I actually got a bottle of the testors stuff just to see how it is, but I'm literally only using drops of it at a time and I dont use it for cleaning. I have a jar with some of that eco friendly stuff (found in the garage) I just sit the uses brushes in when I'm not using them, then swish and wipe when I need a new color. The testors is just for thinning purposes. I found an old can of "lacquer thinner" from probably the 1950s in the garage but I have no idea what is actually in the can. My wife's grandpa kept all sorts of odd mislabeled things in there, like the weedkiller vacuum sprayer I found full of gasoline, or the bleach bottles full of kerosene. It doesn't smell like thinner though so I'm just leaving it where it is.

[Nox]

1 hour ago, NOBLNG said:

Best thing I did was get a couple of cheapo food dehydrators. I have one in the house for drying glue joints, small painted parts, and filler. the other one is in the garage and I put the paints that I intend to use in the very near future in there to warm up. After spraying, the parts go in there too. 

I have now circumvented the need for the dehydrator by putting my drying box sorta close to the wood burner with the fan blowing on it. Same effect and SURPRISINGLY EFFECTIVE. Enamel was drying to the touch within 15-20 minutes!

[LL3 Model Worx]

42 minutes ago, Nox said:

Thanks Bo. I actually got a bottle of the testors stuff just to see how it is, but I'm literally only using drops of it at a time and I dont use it for cleaning. I have a jar with some of that eco friendly stuff (found in the garage) I just sit the uses brushes in when I'm not using them, then swish and wipe when I need a new color. The testors is just for thinning purposes. I found an old can of "lacquer thinner" from probably the 1950s in the garage but I have no idea what is actually in the can. My wife's grandpa kept all sorts of odd mislabeled things in there, like the weedkiller vacuum sprayer I found full of gasoline, or the bleach bottles full of kerosene. It doesn't smell like thinner though so I'm just leaving it where it is.

I've experienced the "wrong stuff,right can" before hahaha.

Recently at work a spray bottle of degreaser, I use it to learn it had been replaced with WD-40... not a fun time...

A can of mineral spirits goes a long way for thinning enamels for brush painting/cleaning though...about $13 bucks a gallon vs $4 for 1.75oz.

Testors $2.28/ oz.

Klean strip or equivalent/ about 11 cents an ounce.

But then again I do have many bottles of testors thinner I've acquired over the years. And its always good to support the hobby.

When we gonna get some color on that body?

 

[Nox]

7 minutes ago, LL3 Model Worx said:

I've experienced the "wrong stuff,right can" before hahaha.

Recently at work a spray bottle of degreaser, I use it to learn it had been replaced with WD-40... not a fun time...

A can of mineral spirits goes a long way for thinning enamels for brush painting/cleaning though...about $13 bucks a gallon vs $4 for 1.75oz.

Testors $2.28/ oz.

Klean strip or equivalent/ about 11 cents an ounce.

But then again I do have many bottles of testors thinner I've acquired over the years. And its always good to support the hobby.

When we gonna get some color on that body?

 

I'm probably not going to start into the body until I have the majority of everything else done. Honestly I'm trying to make sure I only have to do it once, the right way. Not just one coat, but I want to avoid having to strip it and redo it. Remember, this is the first time using spray on a body for me...kinda intimidated lol.

[LL3 Model Worx]

1 hour ago, Nox said:

I'm probably not going to start into the body until I have the majority of everything else done. Honestly I'm trying to make sure I only have to do it once, the right way. Not just one coat, but I want to avoid having to strip it and redo it. Remember, this is the first time using spray on a body for me...kinda intimidated lol.

I fully understand... 

Prep that body up real good, wet sanding through to at least 4000 (preferably higher, I do thru 12000)

Just make sure you test spray on scrap first and warm your cans very well.

A few mist coats and let that tack up for a few minutes then apply 1-2 wet coats and be done...just walk away...(hardest thing for me)

If you have to do a little wet sanding and buffing, that's not necessarily a bad thing.

I typically paint my body first, that way it has plenty of time to dry/harden while I'm building the rest of the kit... keeps me from stalling out and losing interest playing the waiting game.

Don't be too nervous about it... worst case it goes in the drink and you try again.

Its gonna turn out good, go for it!

[Nazz]

  One thing I have learned is that even the best of us make mistakes and have to fix or  redo things. Your project looks great so far, I can understand being intimidated  you take your time things should turn out O.K.

[Nox]

Thanks guys. I think my biggest issue is I'm OCD and a bit of a perfectionist (I am my own worst critic in all aspects).

I did get most of the engine assembled today though. Still a few minor touch ups I need to do on some paint from cutting the sprues. I have done some research into BMF and would love to try it out, but I feel like I'll end up with a mess on my first attempt. Not sure if I should just try to paint the details, as I am actually pretty steady with a brush, or use Molotow. If I go with paint, can someone recommend what would look best?

Edit: Talking about the chrome door panel details and whatnot.

Edited December 22, 2019 by Nox
Extra info

[Nazz]

  Really...OCD.. no one here like that. LOL.  Certainly not yours truly. Haha  If you want my opinion, speaking from experience,  I'd go with the foil, my first attempt turned out alright. I can shoot you a pic if you like.

[GeeBee]

I'd give the BMF a try, it's not as hard as you think, just make sure you use a brand new blade while trimming it, I've just finished the same model.

 

[Nox]

3 hours ago, Nazz said:

  Really...OCD.. no one here like that. LOL.  Certainly not yours truly. Haha  If you want my opinion, speaking from experience,  I'd go with the foil, my first attempt turned out alright. I can shoot you a pic if you like.

 

2 hours ago, GeeBee said:

I'd give the BMF a try, it's not as hard as you think, just make sure you use a brand new blade while trimming it, I've just finished the same model.

 

I'll get some foil then, no time like the present to give it a shot. I may practice on the inside of a piece with some reverse details on it.

 

[espo]

I'm in the "foil it" camp but many here swear that the pen works best. With the fear of messing up a fresh paint job why not practice on some old scrap pieces and see which you prefer. Everything else is looking good with your build.  

[LL3 Model Worx]

16 hours ago, Nox said:

 

I'll get some foil then, no time like the present to give it a shot. I may practice on the inside of a piece with some reverse details on it.

 

I wouldn't be afraid to do the detailed side of the door panel... as others have mentioned use a brand new blade or sharpen a blade on a stone.

If you mess up the foil you just peel it off and start over... if you mess up paint, then you are repainting, wich can involve alot of work.

I say the foil is the best idea. But I do use paint sometimes.

Better to learn now on your first model than to try a technique down the road and ruin something then, this is exaclty what my last few builds have been (test beds) .. at least that's my .02

Go for it man, its gonna look good!

[Nox]

Foil ordered. I got the "new and improved" variation, as I have seen some incredibly mixed reviews about the old ultra bright chrome.

Bo, what I was meaning was trying it out on the inside of the door panel that wont be visible, just to practice hitting the details I want on something no one would see on the finished model. But if it's as easy to just peel off and start over, I'll forgo doing that and just dive right in. I also have several brand new #11 blades so I'll set a few aside just for the foil.

I also ordered an extra can of primer, as I MAY have accidentally caught a glimpse of a Christmas present from my 8 year old. I saw AMT and it looked like Corvette taillights...I'll have to act super surprised lol, she was trying so hard to hide it.