LL3 Model Worx

Hey Jonathan, I've got that part made... need your address to send it out.

Mold made and poured... I forgot to do the engine part you needed like an idiot though... sorry. it should be hardened up in the morning.... if you send your address I'll get it in the mail.

I've got an incomplete kit 🤣 oh well I guess.

I took tomorrow off so I'll start making the mold, and if I can I'll mold your engine part as well. Been crazy at work, had 5 buildings flood, so didn't get in any time the last few days.

A compressor will definitely help... need to maintain correct and most importantly consistent psi. Also make sure that the paint is thin enough to atomize correctly If all you have is the propellant can... you can also warm that can in hot tap water for a bit to help build and maintain pressure. I would recommend for the meantime to strip what you have and get yourself a good tamiya rattle can... you will be amazed at the difference! I really wish I could help more.

Definitely no brake light, but has the cutaway for it, or so it seems.

I'm gonna guess you are talking about the Aztek? Good results can be had from it. Are you using a compressor/ or one of the cans of propellant?

Thanks, I'll snap a photo when I get home. It's the roadster not the GTS... and I knew it had a removable window, just couldn't figure out why the pins were there and the brake light is missing.

Looks great Steve... I don't have much luck with the duplicolor clear out of the can though... always seems to orange peel to hell and back on me no matter what. Wich is nuts because I use it on guitars and other various car parts all the time with fantastic results... but oh well 🤣 I bought a couple of quarts of it at Ollie's a while back for $6 a can and now I just blow it through the airbrush. Works well.

Strip it ans start over would be my suggestion. Perhaps use a spray can? 🤔 instead of using the paint brush. Is there a specific reason why you are brush painting body panels?

I started on my Cannonball entry yesterday a Monogram RT/10 My question is, does this kit not come with a back glass or the upper center brake light, or is my kit just missing parts 🤔 Doesn't show in the instructions that I can see, but has locator pins in the top of the "roof" so it seems something is/was supposed to go there. I will say that overall the kit looks fairly nice and is obviously a repurposed Snap kit... the rear drive tail light is a little wonky and some of the mold lines on the body take some serious sanding/shaping but comes out decent. Never dealt with this kit before... all help appreciated.

I can't load this picture, but if you shot it with the same testors enamel you were hand painting with, you can absolutely wet sand it smooth, hopefully you have enough coats to get it flat then buff it back up. If you are seeing bumps in the paint, its either not thin enough, your spray tip is too small, psi too low or spray distance is too far or any combination of the above. What exactly are you spraying and what are you spraying it with? I'm happy to help, just have to know what you are working with.

Use a piece of flannel and do it again... micro fiber sucks for buffing on models and 1:1. Viva Cloth paper towels work half decent also. But 100% flannel is the way to go for sure.

Looks Looks great! I'll try to make the mold tomorrow.

I came SO close to doing this for my entry as well... even opened the kit and looked It over... but then decided on the viper. Looking forward to seeing yours complete!

I've got the kit. Perhaps I can cast you one in resin?

You could also crack open an old VCR or tape player or any sort of disc drive and find some small pulleys with teeth and likely belt also. Most electric shavers have some small ribbed gears also.

Found them.

I'd be willing to bet Igus company could dig something up... or point someone in the right direction, they have never failed me before when I've looked for oddball things.

I'm sorry, I was being a little facetious in my post. 🤣 I've ordered plenty of hard to find wire and cable for work. Usually they sell at a certain price per foot. I ordered 120' of a cool wire called "chainflex" it's designed to withstand bending in automation applications. It's great stuff. Before I ordered the 120' I needed I ordered 6ft for testing.... no problem. They get more business that way...(their words, not mine) none of us would ever use a 1000'ft roll of wire and most industrial applications wouldn't either, at least most of the time.

Yes that's the one I have. Sorry I didn't look yesterday. Had a bit of a disaster at work. I will look this evening but I'm 99% sure they are there.

I usually use one of a few Grex tritiums Yea I've noticed that leaving some in does help a bit. And I've tried multiple things... soapy water, Alcohol, Lacquer thinner.... window washer fluid, Windex... All sorts of stuff. 91% Alcohol seems to work pretty good as well as lacquer thinner. It's just a bear to remove... wich is basically the point of the primer anyway.

I love stynelrez primer under acrylic paints for miniatures as I rarely use true acrylics for model cars. But I have to admit it is a MAJOR pain to clean out of the airbrush in my experience. Vallejo primer sprays well, and cleans easily but adheres terribly and thusly isnt durable, 😔 though it still has its uses. Just my personal opinions/ experience.

You don't... you put the paint on a pallet of some sort... preferably metal so solvents don't react with plastic. Put a small amount on a pallet, and then thin and mix, and your all set.

Here's one slightly smaller I found... kivcmds 1:18 Scale 3-Tiers Model Car Display Case with Parking Lot Scene for Sports Car and Lego Models Collector, Display Stand for Alloy Car Toy with Light (3-Tiers Convenience Store Parking Lot) https://a.co/d/bAdgFVI It goes together quickly and easy and looks pretty cool in my opinion.