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Posted

I can't say for sure if this is a manual shifter or automatic. If manual, it looks like I'll need to add a clutch pedal. Any ideas as to what's what here?

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Posted

Since this is a convertible, I'm forced to add some details that I normally wouldn't bother with; new arm rests and window cranks, as well as brake, clutch, accelerator and parking brake pedals. The interior is basically OK enough, but I feel these additions will give it more visual appeal. I may add some door speakers too, but I'm 100% sure about that yet.

 

Posted

For the hood, the first order of business is to fill the scribed in trench on the bottom with super glue; no need to worry about stress fractures during the paint polishing process then, when it would be too late to deal with it.

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Posted

Next up is to prep the hood and ever so slightly round off all hood edges. I learned early on that sharp corners and edges can be the enemy of paint.

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Posted

After dealing with some ejector pin mark interference issues, I've now got the dash assembled. Some Mister Surfacer has been used to fill minor voids., though this will obviously require several coats.

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Posted
18 hours ago, Roadrunner said:

After dealing with some ejector pin mark interference issues, I've now got the dash assembled. Some Mister Surfacer has been used to fill minor voids., though this will obviously require several coats.

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The Hood with the scribed opening from behind can be a problem. Not always, but most of the ones I've done the outline of the pattern on the back side will show up on the top as a small raised ridge. 

Posted
3 minutes ago, espo said:

The Hood with the scribed opening from behind can be a problem. Not always, but most of the ones I've done the outline of the pattern on the back side will show up on the top as a small raised ridge. 

It did indeed, but I sanded them off. Thanks for the input though, that's something that I'd hate to have missed.

Posted

Here's the completed chassis, such as it is. I think using the front wheel plastic pins may have been a mistake, but I'll resist adding the front wheels until the last minute. Either that or I'll drill them out and use 12 gauge wire instead, not real sure yet. I have a whole new respect for car modelers for having to deal with this sort of thing on a regular basis, I can tell you that.

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Posted
1 hour ago, Roadrunner said:

Here's the completed chassis, such as it is. I think using the front wheel plastic pins may have been a mistake, but I'll resist adding the front wheels until the last minute. Either that or I'll drill them out and use 12 gauge wire instead, not real sure yet. I have a whole new respect for car modelers for having to deal with this sort of thing on a regular basis, I can tell you that.

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Should you have to go with metal axels check any store that carries hardware. They will have Wire Nails in many different sizes and they have small packages that are sold by their weight. 

Posted
4 minutes ago, espo said:

Should you have to go with metal axels check any store that carries hardware. They will have Wire Nails in many different sizes and they have small packages that are sold by their weight. 

Not a bad idea, but I have several rolls of 12 and 14 gauge electrical wire here, so I'll probably just go that route. 12 gauge, in particular, is pretty stiff anyway. I might even have some 10 gauge, but not really sure.

Posted

The first of the new arm rests is now installed. I realize it's far from perfect, but still looks better than what the kit provides, or at least I think so. Over the years, many of my smaller punches have disappeared, so I may or may not be able to make new window cranks the way I was wanting to.

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Posted
On 2/23/2020 at 2:52 PM, Roadrunner said:

And here we go. All of this funky trim will need to be removed, as I've just not generally seen this trim on the overwhelming majority of the 396's that I've seen so far (perhaps it was an option, I really have no idea). I also noticed that the front marker lights are shorter than the rear ones, when they should be the same, but that should be an easy enough fix. While we're at it, the key entry on the doors are really bad, so I'll be replacing those with punched plastic discs. I may also buy some new door handles and replace them as well, even if they're not specific to this car. I doubt most folks would know the difference.

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Your right on the trim that bottom trim was on the sport and deluxe models and all the SS models did not have that trim they did have the wheel lip trim but that was it on the model that is left over from the 68 mold AMT never took it out when they changed it over for the 69.

Posted

This AMT Chevelle convertible has useless interior tub locating pins on the body which causes the frame wheelbase to be in the incorrect position. I ground them off as the 1977 issue kit was different.

Posted
5 hours ago, Bob Ellis said:

This AMT Chevelle convertible has useless interior tub locating pins on the body which causes the frame wheelbase to be in the incorrect position. I ground them off as the 1977 issue kit was different.

Good to know. Thanks. I did notice that the holes at the rear of the interior are not symmetrical with the tabs they pass through, but haven't checked yet to see if they cause any interference issues.

Posted

I've now glued the hood in place. A bit premature perhaps, but I'm glad I did, as the fit is pretty lousy, requiring a fair amount of filling to really look right. I'm tempted to abandon this altogether and see what the new Revell '69 looks like. Perhaps I can just chop the top off of it to get the convertible I'm after, not real sure yet.

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Posted

I used Evergreen strips to take-up the gaps on the bonnet on the one I'm building (actually , I boxed it 'cause I burned-through the clear and got mad , hahaha !) .

I was building the customised version , which was my intention from the beginning .

Posted
17 minutes ago, 1972coronet said:

I used Evergreen strips to take-up the gaps on the bonnet on the one I'm building (actually , I boxed it 'cause I burned-through the clear and got mad , hahaha !) .

I was building the customised version , which was my intention from the beginning .

I did the same thing to one of my other cars, though I forget which one right now, perhaps my '69 GTX. I'm still considering shelving this for now and waiting to see what the new Revell kit offers. I still have plenty of other stuff to work on, that's for sure.

Posted

OK, this one has gone back in the box indefinitely. I feel no need to waste my time with this thing when the Revell kit will be out at some point. I'd rather just wait for the new kit. If the mods want to delete this tread, that's perfectly fine with me.

Posted
On 2/23/2020 at 5:24 PM, BigTallDad said:

In your first pic, is that a watermelon in the background?

 

Good question!  Also, is that a red Solo cup to the left?

Posted
On 3/7/2020 at 4:09 PM, Roadrunner said:

OK, this one has gone back in the box indefinitely. I feel no need to waste my time with this thing when the Revell kit will be out at some point. I'd rather just wait for the new kit. If the mods want to delete this tread, that's perfectly fine with me.

Totally understand that move.

Posted
On 2/27/2020 at 8:16 AM, rickcaps55 said:

Your right on the trim that bottom trim was on the sport and deluxe models and all the SS models did not have that trim they did have the wheel lip trim but that was it on the model that is left over from the 68 mold AMT never took it out when they changed it over for the 69.

Correct. And now you need wheel lip chrome on the 1969 SS

Posted
20 minutes ago, Bob Ellis said:

Correct. And now you need wheel lip chrome on the 1969 SS

Unless you're doing one based on the 300. B)

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