Danbury Mint play

[Flat32]

When I get one of the DM models I have to play with it. Sometimes it's to find what is missing or damaged, but mostly to discover what has been detailed and to what degree.

Well, I got a 1931 model A Woody a few weeks ago and found it exceptional.  Then spotted another, but without the side curtains installed.  Delivered today and in playing with it found some broken parts and a missing radiator cap.

Then I found some very interesting details.  The seat cushions are open on the bottom revealing real springs. The wood panels are actually wood.  The rear doors have check straps and the doors have piano hinges.  The windshield can be tilted open.

Both rear wheels are broken free of their hubs giving me the opportunity to see how they were made, real wire spokes, and maybe how I can make them.

The 1931 Model A Roadster is commonly offered on ebay relatively cheap and I suspect it's because of the rather bulky looking molded yellow plastic spoked wheels.  I plan to replace them with real wire versions eventually.  There was a gold plated LE version that had the real wire ones, but I didn't like the gold or the price.

[Gramps46]

Interesting observations.  Thank you for sharing them with us.  Do you have any pictures you could post?

[randyc]

Agreed on playing and finding the hidden details.  THe reviewers on diecast.org often leave out the really fun details just so you can find them yourself.  DM was the better of the two at putting in extra stuff, I feel.  

[Flat32]

16 hours ago, Gramps46 said:

Do you have any pictures you could post?

Not set up to conveniently take pictures right now.

 

14 hours ago, randyc said:

Agreed on playing and finding the hidden details.  THe reviewers on diecast.org often leave out the really fun details just so you can find them yourself.  DM was the better of the two at putting in extra stuff, I feel.  

The FM Chevy Confederate roadster is right up there in details and quality.  I have three of them, two yellow and one blue. Hood vent doors open. Wire wheels match the DM LE real wire ones on the 1932 Ford roadster.

[randyc]

9 hours ago, Flat32 said:

The FM Chevy Confederate roadster is right up there in details and quality.  I have three of them, two yellow and one blue. Hood vent doors open. Wire wheels match the DM LE real wire ones on the 1932 Ford roadster.

I have the blue one and yes, that is a most excellent model.  Mine is missing the side curtains, but I can't imaging displaying it with those on it.  Those would be for a "play" moment.  I have the DM 31 Ford in the Roadster and panel truck and you are correct - those would be even better with the PE wheels.  Seems hard to find models with PE wheels for cheap - like parts cars.  

[THarrison351]

14 hours ago, randyc said:

  Mine is missing the side curtains, but I can't imaging displaying it with those on it. 

Hey Randy, my yellow one came complete with the side curtains, but the vinyl had aged and shrunk and would no longer attach to the tiny magnets on the windshield frame.

 

Edited April 30, 2020 by THarrison351

[Flat32]

Got three more dicasts today, but they are duplicates of ones I already have so no playing needed. One is a 1933 Ford coupe which is strange for not having horns like the 1933 roadster has, nice chrome ones. Someday might make molds from the roadster ones and resin cast some.

I'm getting particularly enthralled with the various Model T offerings and would really like to play with them. What I want is a coupe and a 4 door sedan, but they weren't ever made by DM.  Got a 3 Stooges 1:25 plastic kit that has a coupe body included, but it is too small.

Time to take one of the DM T models apart and see what it would take to design 3D printed conversion bodies to fit the chassis.

[randyc]

7 hours ago, Flat32 said:

Got three more dicasts today, but they are duplicates of ones I already have so no playing needed. One is a 1933 Ford coupe which is strange for not having horns like the 1933 roadster has, nice chrome ones. Someday might make molds from the roadster ones and resin cast some.

I'm getting particularly enthralled with the various Model T offerings and would really like to play with them. What I want is a coupe and a 4 door sedan, but they weren't ever made by DM.  Got a 3 Stooges 1:25 plastic kit that has a coupe body included, but it is too small.

Time to take one of the DM T models apart and see what it would take to design 3D printed conversion bodies to fit the chassis.

If you do the 3D printing idea, please post that process step by step.  Would love to follow that through.

[Flat32]

Chose a roadster to take apart. Removed 13 screws and managed to get the body assembly off after some head scratching. The firewall and hood assembly stays with the chassis nicely, however the steering column is part of the windshield/dash subassembly that is attached to the cowl by a hidden screw.  The steering shaft is somehow trapped in the chassis assembly so it wasn't a cake walk to get the body/dash/column assembly slid off it.  A bit finicky because the gas tank is somehow attached to the body along with the gas line that routed down and under a chassis member and then over the top of the engine mount.

I need to get the gas tank and steering column assembled to the chassis as Henry did it.

Dropped the Stooges body on and it looks pretty good actually scale wise. Fun so far.

[Tom Geiger]

1 hour ago, Flat32 said:

Chose a roadster to take apart. Removed 13 screws and managed to get the body assembly off after some head scratching.

Betcha there’s a couple little ladies in China who could get that apart and reassembled in two minutes flat!

[Flat32]

I will not take another one apart for sure.  Presents a problem in that to have a few sedans I'd have to produce a number of chassis models. Don't know if I've got enough gumption to spend a year doing the chassis 3D model.

This is what a typical Chinese factory worker looks like.

[randyc]

10 hours ago, Flat32 said:

Chose a roadster to take apart. Removed 13 screws and managed to get the body assembly off after some head scratching. The firewall and hood assembly stays with the chassis nicely, however the steering column is part of the windshield/dash subassembly that is attached to the cowl by a hidden screw.  The steering shaft is somehow trapped in the chassis assembly so it wasn't a cake walk to get the body/dash/column assembly slid off it.  A bit finicky because the gas tank is somehow attached to the body along with the gas line that routed down and under a chassis member and then over the top of the engine mount.

I need to get the gas tank and steering column assembled to the chassis as Henry did it.

Dropped the Stooges body on and it looks pretty good actually scale wise. Fun so far.

THe way they are assembled can be very bizarre to dismantle.   They are not made to be taken apart after assembly, so screws are hidden under glued in panels.   Assemblies are builtin an order that may preclude disassembly.   You have to do some sturdying and head scratching for sure.   Not many are straightforward to take apart.