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Bare metal foil small writing


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5 hours ago, atomicholiday said:

So...  back to the original question. 

Without throwing gas on the fire,  what technique do you guys use?   Color before or after clear?   And if you do it before,  what type of paint are you using. 

We're talking model cars here.   So there's no wrong answer.   Only various techniques. 

In most cases, the colors used in the recesses of badges are as a rule, basic colors such as black, white, red, blue, etc.

As I use mostly lacquers for base colors and clear, I will then use lacquer for the badge colors as well.

In most cases, I will just either dab a fine brush in a little of the desired color of lacquer if it's airbrush paint, or if it's lacquer paint in a spray can, I'll spray a little into a cup and then use the brush to paint the recessed areas, clean as you would a script, and then clear over the entire body with clear lacquer.

In a nutshell, as I'm using lacquers, if I'm detailing a badge to be cleared over with lacquer, I use lacquer for the detail paint as well.

 

On another note, if the badge is large enough to be foiled and detailed after all of the paint and clear has been I applied, I will do it that way.

In the case of this '63 Ford truck, the badge was foiled after paint and clear, and the background was done using flat red acrylic craft paint.

 

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The rest of these were done with lacquer prior to clear coats.

 

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Some pretty dramatic affects can be achieved using this method.

The badges and scripts on this '64 Pontiac Grand Prix and '61 Buick Invicta were EXTREMELY faint!

Yet, they can be detailed quite nicely if planned well and executed carefully.

 

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Steve

 

 

 

 

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