jaftygas Posted September 27, 2023 Share Posted September 27, 2023 10 minutes ago, peteski said: Joe, the original statement from the peanut gallery was: And now you seem to agree with what Steve (and I) stated. But whatever . . . Whatever is right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atomicholiday Posted September 27, 2023 Share Posted September 27, 2023 So... back to the original question. Without throwing gas on the fire, what technique do you guys use? Color before or after clear? And if you do it before, what type of paint are you using. We're talking model cars here. So there's no wrong answer. Only various techniques. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted September 27, 2023 Share Posted September 27, 2023 5 hours ago, atomicholiday said: So... back to the original question. Without throwing gas on the fire, what technique do you guys use? Color before or after clear? And if you do it before, what type of paint are you using. We're talking model cars here. So there's no wrong answer. Only various techniques. In most cases, the colors used in the recesses of badges are as a rule, basic colors such as black, white, red, blue, etc. As I use mostly lacquers for base colors and clear, I will then use lacquer for the badge colors as well. In most cases, I will just either dab a fine brush in a little of the desired color of lacquer if it's airbrush paint, or if it's lacquer paint in a spray can, I'll spray a little into a cup and then use the brush to paint the recessed areas, clean as you would a script, and then clear over the entire body with clear lacquer. In a nutshell, as I'm using lacquers, if I'm detailing a badge to be cleared over with lacquer, I use lacquer for the detail paint as well. On another note, if the badge is large enough to be foiled and detailed after all of the paint and clear has been I applied, I will do it that way. In the case of this '63 Ford truck, the badge was foiled after paint and clear, and the background was done using flat red acrylic craft paint. The rest of these were done with lacquer prior to clear coats. Some pretty dramatic affects can be achieved using this method. The badges and scripts on this '64 Pontiac Grand Prix and '61 Buick Invicta were EXTREMELY faint! Yet, they can be detailed quite nicely if planned well and executed carefully. Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted September 27, 2023 Share Posted September 27, 2023 Great information. Those badges look great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atomicholiday Posted September 27, 2023 Share Posted September 27, 2023 (edited) Thanks Steve. Good to know.? I have nightmares about trying to foil things like that Buick badge…? Edited September 27, 2023 by atomicholiday 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted September 27, 2023 Share Posted September 27, 2023 56 minutes ago, atomicholiday said: Thanks Steve. Good to know.? I have nightmares about trying to foil things like that Buick badge…? That one was a PITA! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaftygas Posted September 28, 2023 Share Posted September 28, 2023 9 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said: In the case of this '63 Ford truck, the badge was foiled after paint and clear, and the background was done using flat red acrylic craft paint. Exactly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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