absmiami Posted October 25, 2020 Author Posted October 25, 2020 The pipe has some heat shielding - this was added with some tape. The shielding will be painted red and the exposed pipe is aluminum ... there is a short length of rubber pipe running past the roll bar and into the collector in front of the cyl head - there is just enough room there - things are going to get crowded in the engine bay ...
absmiami Posted October 28, 2020 Author Posted October 28, 2020 Seat covering ... team lotus used red leather. Figure painters have a great knack for painting a surface and making it look like leather. And I am not a figure painter. So I’m trying different things. Too shiny. Too dark. Etc. the fix I think will be the thin leather - think it’s calf skin not sure - coated with a red sharpie. Getting close but I’ll try a perm marker with a slightly darker shade of red ....
absmiami Posted October 29, 2020 Author Posted October 29, 2020 Time for some rivets ... using Archer and some alt pattern rivets from Micro Mark these work well. Try them. You’ll like them ...
absmiami Posted November 1, 2020 Author Posted November 1, 2020 No matter what ... there are always repairs or corrections on the body work after the first primer coat. The second coat is on now. You can see that the rivets will stand out under the paint and the carrier film for the rivet decals just sort of goes away - it is not visible ...
absmiami Posted November 1, 2020 Author Posted November 1, 2020 Wheels: kit white metal parts. The 32B ran the same wheels and tires as the 33. The tires are some old stash Perry’s Resin Dunlops rubber - very nice. Inner rims are enlarged to match the Dunlops - wheels and rims are painted with Tamiya yellow. Some paint over-run on the outer rims are removed with some small grinding bits and sanding sticks while the wheels are held in a 3 jaw Chuck on the Sherline. Then the wheels and rims got a coat of Alcad semi gloss .. the wheels were also drilled for wheel nuts ....
Bainford Posted November 2, 2020 Posted November 2, 2020 Looking great. Nice scratch work. It's coming along nicely.
absmiami Posted November 2, 2020 Author Posted November 2, 2020 Gracias. And my compliments to your profile ID box Picture / thingy ...
absmiami Posted November 4, 2020 Author Posted November 4, 2020 Thanks for viewing ... and thanks for voting ...
absmiami Posted November 9, 2020 Author Posted November 9, 2020 Back to the dash before making the exhaust pipes .. the instrument panel on the 32b is based upon the Lotus 32 panel. A restored one is pictured here ...
absmiami Posted November 9, 2020 Author Posted November 9, 2020 The panel on the Team Lotus restored 32b is here. There are no good pictures that I have seen of the panel as raced in the Tasman series. But I’m pretty sure that it was different than the restored panel. - so I’ll make some changes based upon what I have seen in contemporary shots of Lotus formula cars in ‘64 and ‘65 .
absmiami Posted November 9, 2020 Author Posted November 9, 2020 The panel is exposed. So I have to show some of the detail on the back side. Making the instr housings from plastic tube and rod and straps made from .013 nickel Wire bent, sanded, and glued to the plastic housing
absmiami Posted November 9, 2020 Author Posted November 9, 2020 Also did some work on the wheels and tires while waiting out our last ?? ?? Tropical storm of the season to pass ... tire valves made from RB motion fuel line connections and steel wire. And wheel balance weights Made from soft tin wire ... pondering the wheel nuts . .. not certain yet ...
absmiami Posted November 9, 2020 Author Posted November 9, 2020 The few contemporary photos from the Tasman campaign suggest that the tire markings were painted gold. Again not certain but taking a shot with an ink based Fine point gold sharpie. This is some hold your breath - not after a beer Modeling and yes magnified - most of this build has been done with an opti-visor. Which is now a more important tool than my Xacto knife .... the excess ink is mostly removed with the point of the xacto ...
absmiami Posted November 13, 2020 Author Posted November 13, 2020 I the instr panel is fighting me ... I’m fighting it back ... the rivets were difficult to install. Would have been smarter to have used a rivet decal and picked out the silver after painting. Anyway ... punching out and installing BBK gauges after a coat of Tamiya red. With some flat additive ...
absmiami Posted November 13, 2020 Author Posted November 13, 2020 Gauge bevels made from .013 nickel Wire bent around a file to make that curly Q. Which is cut into rings and filed flat in the bottom side . ... this should work ...
absmiami Posted November 14, 2020 Author Posted November 14, 2020 The modeling gods had some fun at my expense tonite ... not surprised ... the thin plastic panel required a lot of handling. And sure enough - it broke in two while I was installing the gauge bezels ... should have made the panel in aluminum or brass ... but I can still use this - I think - when left and right are glued to the brace and the other parts are attached - I think it will look fine ... to be continued ...
absmiami Posted November 15, 2020 Author Posted November 15, 2020 Taking shape ... the left / right halves are glued to the brace - the instr gauge housings on the back side are then glued and will / should / probably hold everything together ... added ignition and fuel pump switches plus oil temp light and starter button. Pretty crowded. Next is the tach and the last detail on the back side ... this process reminds me why I don’t build 43rd scale kits ...
absmiami Posted November 16, 2020 Author Posted November 16, 2020 Bezel for tach made fr .015 nickel silver ... glued with Tamiya clear ... dash is almost done ...
Belugawrx Posted November 19, 2020 Posted November 19, 2020 Nice work on the dash Andrew !.. and nice save?
absmiami Posted November 21, 2020 Author Posted November 21, 2020 So. As long as I am breaking things .... might as well show you the broken halves of the rocker arm bulkhead ... this is a lovely kit part - I messed around with it so much that it finally broke in half ... fortuitously, the part(s) are sandwiched between two thin supports so the final installation will look fine...
absmiami Posted November 21, 2020 Author Posted November 21, 2020 The pedals hang down from this part. The clutch and brake are made from smashed tin solder with a pliers - then I rolled a diamond pattern onto the surface and then cut and shaped and glued this onto a pedal bracket made from nickel silver
absmiami Posted November 21, 2020 Author Posted November 21, 2020 Now to the exhaust pipes. 1 & 4 and 2 & 3 join in collectors and end in a single pipe. Using nickel silver rod. .062. This is probably slightly under scale. But .070 will not fit well into the cylinder head. So this is a scale casualty but not a terrible one. Set up a jig on the beaders’ tool Plate that Randy D used for the exhausts on his bonkers Porsche engine ... speaking of bonkers ... don’t miss the Cosworth WIP ...
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