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Posted

Getting there.  Will need a few more Small bends And then the collector pipes - which have to clear the side of the engine cover. Oops - still have to make that ...

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Posted

You’re welcome  don’t forget to return it when you’re done ...

scoured the internet for some wheel nuts.  The sets that are currently available have stems that are too large for these wheels   - due to the location of the nut holes in the wheel - and I don’t want to make 24 of these things on a lathe .  So I decided to modify some 1.0 mm 3D printed nuts ...

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Posted

By cutting  off the washer - following the outline of the nut - I have a nut that has the needed height to simulate a wheel nut. This is tedious- but takes a bit less time than machining each one of these suckers ...and the stems on these things are just .018 in . 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

The engine cover on the 32B is different than the 33  because the engine is different.   So I’ve sawed up a piece of scrap renshape to make the cover using the profile drawings on these cards.  There are no drawings and the restored car does not have the original cover. That’s long gone. So I’ll follow the shape of the engine bay and judge the curves from photos - and I have to be sure that the peak of the cover clears the peak of the roll bar ...

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Posted

And I managed to finish the wheels and tires ... these were really time consuming - but there are no fenders - so it’s worth it ...

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Posted

By the way. PermaGrit makes the best hand tools to shape renshape...  the consistency of the medium stuff is sort of in between wood and plastic.  it’s like hard wood the no grain ...

Posted

If I can get one half right - I’ll glue the halves together and get it as symmetrical as I can.  CA glue bonds this stuff well with a  very small seam that is very sandable ...  the second shot includes one of the random tooth PermaGrit cutter that I use for Renshape ...

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Posted

Forgot to mention - these drum sanders are also very useful   The PermaGrit bits will leave a rough surface that the drum sanded will correct.  Also use course sanding sticks a lot ...

will the exhaust pipes clear the profile of the engine cover ?  Not sure - will know tonite - 

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Posted

And of course,  the exhausts do not quite curve past the bonnet.  So I’ll probably re-make the 2/3 branch and then we’ll see ...

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Posted

This part is a problem child. Had to saw apart the left/right halves twice to adjust the width and had a tough time getting the right profiles  - it has to clear the roll bar and the cylinder heads but still have a sleek length-wise profile ... its almost done ...

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Posted

The ridge over the opening for the Weber’s has a small ridge  -   Forming from .015 by .125 strip evergreen. Will also add some reinforcement to the tabs on the forward edge of the bonnet as these are fragile ...

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  • 9 months later...
Posted

Great reference alert …

in 1965 a lot of motor sports photography was bl and wh …

not a car modeler’s best friend …. But Primotipo.com never misses an opportunity to post color pix - and the site has just put up 2 color shots of the 23B taken during the 65 Tasman season -  Gracias!  Turns out that the roll bar is green and not black - gotta correct / redo my exhaust pipes and finish this sucker ..   insert joke here …

  • 1 month later...
Posted

So as I’ve wandered away fr this thread - I thought I’d revive it with a fascinating Joker kit find. Joker made a

Lotus 18 - and a darned good one !!  It’s curbside but the castings for the wheels and body are great - they nailed it -  this kit is not mine - it’s in a friends collection - and it begs foR some copies - and uses the same

climax that I’m using in the 32B.  What a cool find !  Model kit envy …

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