Model King / AMT '65 Mustang Modified

[NZanglia]

Hi guys, first build here on the forum. I'm not sure if it fits the bring out yer dead category but since I'm not permitted to start a new kit until I get my started ones done first I'll post it here separately as well.

Not sure about colours just yet. Looking at silver chassis and some combo of lime green and black for the body. Might restyle the front push/nerf bar to differentiate it from a previous build. Please don't be too harsh on my build and paint skills. Lol. 

[CabDriver]

Love a roundy-roundy racer!  I’ll be watching!

[NZanglia]

Cheers Cab. Quick photo of previous build. Unfortunately I tend to focus on the flaws in my builds. 

[CabDriver]

Nice!  I like it!

If there’s ever a build where you can get away with a paint flaw it’s an oval car...?‍♂️?

[dwc43]

7 hours ago, CabDriver said:

Nice!  I like it!

If there’s ever a build where you can get away with a paint flaw it’s an oval car...?‍♂️?

Hey now. I took pride in my paint jobs on my real circle track cars ..... lol !!!  They never stayed that way, it is a contact sport after all. lol

[dwc43]

7 hours ago, NZanglia said:

Cheers Cab. Quick photo of previous build. Unfortunately I tend to focus on the flaws in my builds. 

Nice build. I have some bodies that I'm going to scratch build a chassis for them. I'm going to save a couple to make a drag car out of with a custom chassis too. Did that hood go one something else? Asking cause it has that notch in it.  Turn your air filter around, the shield goes in front. IT does two things, it keeps the dirt or something heavy from hitting the filter. It also helps air flow. IT's proven that air through a filter stuck in the air like that actually reduces hp cause it disrupts air flow into the carb. Sorry, the real racer jumped out this morning. I need to go turn some laps. lol

[NZanglia]

Thats the hood that came with this 40 Ford Mod.

As for the air cleaner, I just followed the instructions. Im guessing that they are incorrect then.  easy fix.

Having "Fun" sanding the 2 part hard plastic tyres. Thinking of scribing tread into them to make them more hand cut dirt tread tyres.

 

[NZanglia]

I have finally managed to wrangle the multi piece body together ready for first primer coat. 

[NZanglia]

Does anyone have any good pics of where the interior rear deck panel is supposed to fit or line up inside the body and is it normal for it to be visible through the rear wheel arches?  Its fitted correctly at the rear but the slight alteration in level at the front has no impact on its visibility in the rear arch.

Edited September 20, 2020 by NZanglia

[alan barton]

I've never built the Mustang but have done the 37 Chev coupe and 36 Chev sedan numerous times.  These are not the most precise kits that AMT ever made so don't be concerned about tweaking things here and there. No race car builder would have had the deck hanging through the wheelarch as it would have defeated its purpose of keeping dirt out. These kits have a non-prototypical interior tub and at the end of the day, the deck has to sit on that.  

If you are up for some experimentation, try using some flat printer's plate aluminium or similar to replace the plastic deck with real metal - you will be able to get this exactly where you want it!

Cheers

Alan

[NZanglia]

44 minutes ago, alan barton said:

I've never built the Mustang but have done the 37 Chev coupe and 36 Chev sedan numerous times.  These are not the most precise kits that AMT ever made so don't be concerned about tweaking things here and there. No race car builder would have had the deck hanging through the wheelarch as it would have defeated its purpose of keeping dirt out. These kits have a non-prototypical interior tub and at the end of the day, the deck has to sit on that.  

If you are up for some experimentation, try using some flat printer's plate aluminium or similar to replace the plastic deck with real metal - you will be able to get this exactly where you want it!

Cheers

Alan

Well, Printers plates are super easy for me to get, but Ill use the kit part as is for now and not be too worried about perfection rather than looking good on the shelf.  Although now that you have put the thought in my pea sized brain, I might give it ago. depends on time.

Thanks for the advice Alan.

[alan barton]

And, if you go to a fabric shop, you can get a pouncing wheel that dressmakers use to transfer patterns to fabric - just run this along a rule with the aluminium laid on top of a piece of cardboard - instant rivets!  If you are building racecars, this stuff becomes very addictive!!

Cheers

Alan

[NZanglia]

Trying to rescribe the hard plastic tyres to kinda represent hand cut dirt tyres. Rear tyres I think I have sorted but having trouble with fronts. I have 3 ideas but after opinions from those more in the know to what is close-is enough. 

[NZanglia]

I have the two rear tyres done, but still insure of the front tread pattern.

 

[TarheelRick]

Not really familiar with dirt racing, but from what I do know many drivers had their own "secret" design that worked for their driving style.  So any design you cut should be an acceptable pattern.  If anyone complains about the design, you can always blame the rookie team member that cut the tires for you.

[NZanglia]

All tyres now done. On to the tail panel to have some tail light shaped holes cut out. Then it's time to get framed. 

[TarheelRick]

Those are some good looking tyres, really look the part.  How did you get the cuts so symmetrical? 

[NZanglia]

On 9/25/2020 at 12:12 AM, TarheelRick said:

Those are some good looking tyres, really look the part.  How did you get the cuts so symmetrical? 

Very very carefully

[NZanglia]

Seriously though. I did it in a 4 steps.

1. Sand the 2 part hard plastic tyres flat once thoroughly dried.

2. Measure the width of the tread and divide it by the number of radial lines required. Measure mark each radial line in turn around the circumference and join the marks with a 3M Pinstripping vinyl tapes trying to get it as straight and even as possible.  Then run a 2nd layer around over the first.  Use this as a guide edge to slowly and carefully scribe the radial grooves until deep enough. Rinse and repeat until all radial lines are done.

3 The tread pattern. for the front tyres i cut the 3m tape into 2mm ( 5/64") strips and triple layered them . I lined the first angled line and carefully scribed the grooves on both sides of the tape. The I "simply"moved the tape and lined one edge with the back of the previous groove and scribed the next line. And so on and so forth until I had gone around the whole tyre being careful to keep the angle the same. As I got nearer the end I tweeked it to make sure they lined up to the first groove. Several pieces of tape were used as it go covered in scurf from the removed of plastic from the groove.

The rear tyres I went horizontal with 3mm ( 1/8") tape around the tyre staying within the outer most radial lines. I then went back around and scribed the angle lining up the corner on one side with the corner 2 rows up on the other side. ( will make more sense looking at the finished scribed tread )

And yes many colourful words were spoken everytime the scriber slipped.

But that's How I did it.

 

 

[NZanglia]

Just buttoning up the chassis with a few minor tweeks before it's ready to primer. Photos tomorrow.

[TarheelRick]

1 hour ago, NZanglia said:

Seriously though. I did it in a 4 steps.

1. Sand the 2 part hard plastic tyres flat once thoroughly dried.

2. Measure the width of the tread and divide it by the number of radial lines required. Measure mark each radial line in turn around the circumference and join the marks with a 3M Pinstripping vinyl tapes trying to get it as straight and even as possible.  Then run a 2nd layer around over the first.  Use this as a guide edge to slowly and carefully scribe the radial grooves until deep enough. Rinse and repeat until all radial lines are done.

3 The tread pattern. for the front tyres i cut the 3m tape into 2mm ( 5/64") strips and triple layered them . I lined the first angled line and carefully scribed the grooves on both sides of the tape. The I "simply"moved the tape and lined one edge with the back of the previous groove and scribed the next line. And so on and so forth until I had gone around the whole tyre being careful to keep the angle the same. As I got nearer the end I tweeked it to make sure they lined up to the first groove. Several pieces of tape were used as it go covered in scurf from the removed of plastic from the groove.

The rear tyres I went horizontal with 3mm ( 1/8") tape around the tyre staying within the outer most radial lines. I then went back around and scribed the angle lining up the corner on one side with the corner 2 rows up on the other side. ( will make more sense looking at the finished scribed tread )

And yes many colourful words were spoken everytime the scriber slipped.

But that's How I did it.

 

 

Thanks for that instruction.  The only part I am missing is the patience to do that.  They are definitely very realistic looking.

[Draggon]

Great job on those tires ?

[NZanglia]

On 9/30/2020 at 12:46 AM, TarheelRick said:

Thanks for that instruction.  The only part I am missing is the patience to do that.  They are definitely very realistic looking.

You not wrong Tarheel. Yup A bucket lad of that is required. and just as much again in cleaning up all the flash.

[NZanglia]

On 10/2/2020 at 2:10 PM, Draggon said:

Great job on those tires ?

Thanks Draggon.

 

[NZanglia]

Finally, every part has been cleaned up and flash and ejector Pin marks removed.  All Parts have been washed and ready for paint. Still Have to drill out the magneto and spark plug holes in the block. But otherwise all good to go.  I will be painting it as ready to start a fresh season.

Edited October 4, 2020 by NZanglia