Hws5283 Posted June 15, 2021 Share Posted June 15, 2021 Im building a model dodge charger and mixed flat red and gloss orange from tamiya to get that reddish orange color of old charger engines and the finish came out pretty flat. From pictures on the internet these engine paints on the engine block (not only on chargers) seem to have most of the time a glossy finish to them. I was thinking of just buying tamiya gloss and shooting a couple coats of it through my airbrush to make the engine block more glossy. would this be a good way to go or is there a better way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLMFAA1 Posted June 15, 2021 Share Posted June 15, 2021 Give it a coat of future floor wax. greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoRover007 Posted June 15, 2021 Share Posted June 15, 2021 You could use a clear coat or dip it in future floor wax like GLMAA1 suggests. Then you could add a wash and some weathering to really make it pop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted June 15, 2021 Share Posted June 15, 2021 You could brush future on or spray it wit semigloss or gloss lacquer.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
espo Posted June 15, 2021 Share Posted June 15, 2021 The gloss finish would depend on what type of build you are working on. Most internet pictures will be of engines that have been rebuilt or detailed for show. Stock showroom new would not be all that shinny. Remember the block usually is a cast iron material with a rough surface and often only a dusting of color so even a gloss coat of paint would be more of a semi gloss finish at best and the "tin" or valve covers and oil pan being a smooth surface would be a little shinier. A Hot Rod or Custom Car would have a well detailed finish and would be a glosser finish. Use the old spoon method to test different finishes. Try a semi gloss and another with a gloss to see which one you like. Another way to get a little more realistic "stock" finish on the block and any cast iron parts would be to hold the part at arms length and give it a short burst of paint and wait to see how that looks. The paint will tend to dry somewhat in the air before it reaches the block and will give it a somewhat rough finish. This could also be done with gloss or semi gloss clear as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
espo Posted June 15, 2021 Share Posted June 15, 2021 I just relooked at the engine you're working with. An exception to all of my ramblings about painting engines and then I realized your doing a MoPar engine. One thing that MoPar didn't do was skimp on paint on their engines. Many manufactures would hope to have their bodies as well painted as a MoPar engine. I think that a semi gloss at a minimum for this to look OEM. Sorry if anything I said mislead you as I was thinking GM or even Ford before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hws5283 Posted June 15, 2021 Author Share Posted June 15, 2021 21 minutes ago, espo said: I just relooked at the engine you're working with. An exception to all of my ramblings about painting engines and then I realized your doing a MoPar engine. One thing that MoPar didn't do was skimp on paint on their engines. Many manufactures would hope to have their bodies as well painted as a MoPar engine. I think that a semi gloss at a minimum for this to look OEM. Sorry if anything I said mislead you as I was thinking GM or even Ford before. I appreciate the replies, I realize im kinda splitting hairs here, i think im just going to put like 2 coats of alclad aqua gloss on it and it will be close enouph most likely. but your previous reply will give me something to think about when doing other cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted June 15, 2021 Share Posted June 15, 2021 I use flat paints all of the time when painting engines. (Usually Testors enamels) There are some nice benefits to using flat paints followed by clear. First, flat paint will dry smoother as a rule, (no orange peel) Second, I can control the degree of gloss depending on the number of coats I add after. Finally, I can do all of my detail painting on the engine prior to the clear coat. This will protect those parts, as well as the engine paint from rubbing off during handling during assembly. I will usually use a coat or two of Testors clear lacquer over the flat enamel to add gloss and protect the paint. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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