Painting

[Steve S]

I just introduced myself in the intro thread, but have some paint questions...as things have changed much since the 70's.

 

What's the thought on, if the model comes in white...do you paint, or leave as is?

If you paint...primer, then color coat? Or just color on the bare plastic?

I don't have an airbrush...so whats the best paint out there to use?

Tips on what to do between coats...or just one coat?

 

Lots of paint questions...have a lot to catch up on.

[Matt Bacon]

Apologies for posting this as a link to another forum, but I put it up there a good few years ago and the thread has gotten some useful additions along the way:

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234956647-matts-tips-for-painting-cars/

HTH,

best,

M.

 

Edited February 9, 2022 by Matt Bacon

[rightrudder]

Check out some recent posts in my '53 Studebaker thread in WIP. Rattle can paint just seems to go on smoother over primer.

I think they always look better painted, provided the paint goes on smooth, and that takes practice. I'm no expert in this category, but my finishes have improved as I learn more. That said, I've seen bare plastic that looks pretty good. Polish it with a good automotive polish/wax, and it'll look even better.

I really like Tamiya spray paint, a synthetic lacquer.

On the coats question, most like to put on a mist coat first, let that dry for an hour, then put on at least a couple heavier coats, with maybe an hour between coats. The trick is put the heavier coats on thick enough that the paint looks glossy, but not too much that it runs. Hold the can too far away and the paint dries in the air more than it should and you get the dreaded orange peel.

Then, have the patience to not touch it for two days! At that point, shoot some clear coat over it, and let it dry for another two.

Good luck!

[Steve S]

Thank you two for the link and the tips. Going full blown research on each model to get as correct as possible.

[Fat Brian]

I use Duplicolor white primer from the auto parts store. It goes on thin out of the can so it doesn't bury the molded in detail and it's strips easily in Super Clean. This way you can paint over it with anything and be able to remove it if you mess up. I typically only primer the body and hood, things that get painted flat colors don't usually need it unless you're cover red plastic with white or something. 

I wet sand the last primer coat with 2000 grip paper. I wasn't a believer but it really does make a huge difference in the finished paint job. 

Personally, I clear coat everything,  it just makes it look better to me. I really like Mr. Super Clear gloss but it's pricey so I can't always use it. Rustoleum clear lacquer with the green oval on the can works well over paint that can tolerate it.

[Erik Smith]

Tamiya’s TS paints are really nice (some are flat though which require gloss coat). They are a little limited on colors but have basic solids. Nice thing about the Tamiya sprays is they don’t need a clear coat if applied well. That gives a more realistic car finish to my eye. Tulio HERE does fantastic, realistic paint with just Tamiya color I believe - apply in a fairly heavy coat and as it dries it shrinks up nice and smooth. 
 

I think clear top coats look good on custom and some modern cars, but the simple gloss from just the paint mimics a scale classic finish better, in my humble opinion. 

Edited February 11, 2022 by Erik Smith

[Rodent]

I have used Tamiya TS three times recently. Once was a touchup (blend) on a pickup bed that had been damaged. That was with an old can I had had for several years. The other two were from fresh-from-the LHS cans. The old can behaved like we all love, the others not so much, including TS-13. I don't know if something changed in the formula recently or what. I just couldn't get the glass smooth finish I am used to. Even with heavy final coats, it wasn't as smooth as I like after drying.

[Erik Smith]

2 hours ago, Rodent said:

I have used Tamiya TS three times recently. Once was a touchup (blend) on a pickup bed that had been damaged. That was with an old can I had had for several years. The other two were from fresh-from-the LHS cans. The old can behaved like we all love, the others not so much, including TS-13. I don't know if something changed in the formula recently or what. I just couldn't get the glass smooth finish I am used to. Even with heavy final coats, it wasn't as smooth as I like after drying.

Oh no. A lot of my cans are pretty old - one good thing about building really slow. 
 

Hate to see something go wrong with another quality product, though - so tired of garbage products everywhere. 

Edited February 11, 2022 by Erik Smith

[Rodent]

1 hour ago, Erik Smith said:

Oh no. A lot of my cans are pretty old - one good thing about building really slow. 
 

Hate to see something go wrong with another quality product, though - so tired of garbage products everywhere. 

I hope it's just ME, but I have been especially disappointed with new TS13 cans lately.