Revell Porsche 914-6

[Pierre Rivard]

A basic kit slowly transforms into a masterpiece. Wonderful to see this combination of skills, creativity and use of various materials come together. Inspiring.

[Straightliner59]

1 hour ago, Pierre Rivard said:

A basic kit slowly transforms into a masterpiece. Wonderful to see this combination of skills, creativity and use of various materials come together. Inspiring.

Thank you, Pierre! I appreciate that. I really like your garage diorama! Lots of nice stuff to look at!

[Straightliner59]

Moving to the trunk area, I started cutting on some card stock to begin make a template for the filler panels inside the quarter panels. Once I felt like that was getting close, I set it aside, and glued some rails, for the trunk lid to sit on. Getting that done really seems like it will help this all come together, back here. Having these two panels lift off, rather than hinge will make the engine much more easily seen. Once this immediate area is done, I'll build the same inners, for the engine bay. If you don't hear from me, in the next three weeks, I'll be working on the removal of those ejector marks, on the underside of the cover! Yikes!😂Thanks for looking!

[titino]

Excellent detailing

[Straightliner59]

On 11/16/2025 at 6:42 AM, titino said:

Excellent detailing

Thank you, sir!

[Mark W]

I can’t say enough nice things about this build Dan. Every detail and scratchbuilt item has a true 1:1 look.

I learned so much from your techniques, it will surely show in my future builds, I thank you for that.

But one item stands out, your 914 engine is mounted 180 degrees from the 911 I’m working on!

Thanks for sharing such a beautiful build.

[Straightliner59]

29 minutes ago, Mark W said:

I can’t say enough nice things about this build Dan. Every detail and scratchbuilt item has a true 1:1 look.

I learned so much from your techniques, it will surely show in my future builds, I thank you for that.

But one item stands out, your 914 engine is mounted 180 degrees from the 911 I’m working on!

Thanks for sharing such a beautiful build.

Mark, I absolutely and truly appreciate your kind words! I'm always happy when others find something useful in what I do. From the time I began building I had friends close by, who were willing to share what they knew. You don't hang out with Don Fahrni, for years, without learning something! I hope to do the same.

The inner panels for the trunk are being persnickety. It seems like whatever I do, they almost fit! At least when I get around to building the Fujimi 911 RS I have, it will be nice to be able to see the engine! This one, in front of the axle, is kind of hidden.

[SSNJim]

Love your build so far. All the detailing is wonderful. I'm looking forward to seeing the completed project.

Edited November 18 by SSNJim

[Straightliner59]

On 11/17/2025 at 5:27 PM, SSNJim said:

Love your build so far. All the detailing is wonderful. I'm looking forward to seeing the completed project.

Thanks, Jim! I appreciate that.

I'm getting close, with the inner fender panels. A bit more fine-tuning, and I can paint them. I can't understnd why Revell didn't have them in the kit. Those gaping openings to the tires should have been enough to illustrate their importance.😄Anyway, here's where we're at. Thanks for looking!

[Straightliner59]

I made tabs for the hood pins for the engine cover from .080" Evergreen angle. There's still some work to do on the trunk lid, but, everything looks satisfactory, for now! Now, to figure out how to clean up that mess around the rear "cap". Thanks for looking!

[Straightliner59]

I have a pretty decent start on fixing the ill-fitting rear "cap" of the kit. Looking at photos of 914s illustrated that the portion above the bumper is a separate piece. Cutting off the bumper area and roll pan immediately improve the ability to align the two sections with the body, without disturbing how they fit together. The roll pan aligns much better with the quarter panel, as does the taillight section. Now, on to fine-tuning this. Thanks for looking!

[Bainford]

It's coming along great, Daniel. I love your approach to detailing. I enjoy watching the process, and learn a little something along the way. Cheers.

[Straightliner59]

11 hours ago, Bainford said:

It's coming along great, Daniel. I love your approach to detailing. I enjoy watching the process, and learn a little something along the way. Cheers.

Thank you, Trevor. Glad you're enjoying it. Bonus that you get something worthwhile, from it. I appreciate that! I just have a blast, making little, detailed stuff!

[Straightliner59]

I made the rear section of the engine cover from a piece of an aluminum, expanded-mesh splatter screen. I flattened it in the vise to take the vertical bias out of it, leaving a flat, diamond-mesh screen. I built the frame from .030" square stock. The screen is painted with Krylon Semi-Flat Black. The frame is Tamiya Light Gun Metal. Next, I'll be fixing the main section of the cover, widening it to fit better. I'll then need to place the pins, and locate the holes for them in the cover. I really like the way this looks! Thanks for looking!

[BK9300]

Looks really good, Daniel - maybe I didn't catch it previously, but do you plan on parts/covers being removable so all the great work on your engine can be viewed?

[Straightliner59]

8 hours ago, BK9300 said:

Looks really good, Daniel - maybe I didn't catch it previously, but do you plan on parts/covers being removable so all the great work on your engine can be viewed?

Thank you, Brian Yes, I am going to install hood pins for both openings, and eliminate the hinges. I am really happy with the engine, so that's what caused me to decide to go that way. I appreciate your comments, my friend!

[Pierre Rivard]

What you have produced for the chassis/engine/interior is truly remarkable. The body on this kit will need a lot of TLC. It will be fun filling this next phase of your build.

[Straightliner59]

3 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:

What you have produced for the chassis/engine/interior is truly remarkable. The body on this kit will need a lot of TLC. It will be fun filling this next phase of your build.

Thank you, Pierre! You're right about the body. I'm not even going to go crazy with it--I just wanted to fix the sail panels, and make the other stuff fit, cleanly. I think cutting the rear "cap" assembly is a huge help, in that regard.  That said, it's still likely going to cause some grinding of teeth! I really am happy with the way it's looking, so far. It's an interesting construction.

[Straightliner59]

I got some paint on the engine cover. I also painted and installed the side panels for the trunk. This feels like a pretty good step! Thanks for looking!

[Straightliner59]

Nothing new, just making sure I am logged in on the new phone.

[Mike Holland]

Looking great, Daniel. I agree fully what others mentioned, combining different materials to reach an inspiring result. Especially in this scale. Respect. Mike.. 

[Straightliner59]

On 12/1/2025 at 2:54 PM, Mike Holland said:

Looking great, Daniel. I agree fully what others mentioned, combining different materials to reach an inspiring result. Especially in this scale. Respect. Mike.. 

Thanks, Mike. I appreciate that!

Somehow, I'd ground off the point above the taillight, on the left side of the car. I've avoided using sprue goo for filling, because I don't trust it not to shrink, over large areas. However, I decided it would be the perfect medium to repair the damaged point with, as it would more readily become a part of the body than attaching a piece would. I made a fairly heavy batch, and applied it to the damaged area with a toothpick. I let it set for a couple of hours, then dabbed on another bit. It worked like a charm! The high viscosity allowed me to pull the toothpick away and form the point. A bit of light sanding later, and here we are. Thanks for looking!

[Mike Holland]

Daniel, great fix there. QUESTION; 'sprue gloo', is that a trade name, or your own concoction? 

I make my own liquid filler. The reducer for styrene is ethyl acetate. Using a small jar, cut a mess of sprue leads, like maybe 1.5" altogether. Pour in just covering the styrene bits, wait 20 minutes, then you have applicable goop. Is quickly thinned out if needed, immediately. Apply with a toothpick, works great. Dries in 30 minutes max. But, I just looked online, the stuff in the US is very expensive. Germany is famous for chemicals, so a quart of the stuff is super cheap here.  I know of no other liquid filler for styrene, hence the question.

Looking good.

 

[Straightliner59]

39 minutes ago, Mike Holland said:

Daniel, great fix there. QUESTION; 'sprue gloo', is that a trade name, or your own concoction? 

I make my own liquid filler. The reducer for styrene is ethyl acetate. Using a small jar, cut a mess of sprue leads, like maybe 1.5" altogether. Pour in just covering the styrene bits, wait 20 minutes, then you have applicable goop. Is quickly thinned out if needed, immediately. Apply with a toothpick, works great. Dries in 30 minutes max. But, I just looked online, the stuff in the US is very expensive. Germany is famous for chemicals, so a quart of the stuff is super cheap here.  I know of no other liquid filler for styrene, hence the question.

Looking good.

 

That's exactly what I did. I used Weld-On 4 to dissolve it. It's the same stuff I use for cement. I'm not sure what it is. I don't think it's MEK, though.

[Mike Holland]

14 minutes ago, Straightliner59 said:

That's exactly what I did. I used Weld-On 4 to dissolve it. It's the same stuff I use for cement. I'm not sure what it is. I don't think it's MEK, though.

Yep, that would be the stuff. Solvent for styrene as well as glue. Nice and smelly!  Hey, if it doesn't smell (like paint) it won't work!  lol.