Helipilot16 Posted January 9, 2009 Posted January 9, 2009 On the "other" forum I posted a tutorial on foiling using Reynolds Wrap. I will repeat it here. First; the advantages: It is much stronger and less likely to tear. It doesn't "bunch up" in front of the blade while cutting it, making blades last longer. It polishes beautifully and can be cleared over. It is very cheap. I bought a roll of 24 square feet for a buck at a dollar store. Don't use cheaper store brands or generic. Use Reynolds Wrap. 1. Cut out a piece slightly larger than what you want for trim. Use a #11 exacto blade or the equivalent. 2. Spread a thin coat of foil adhesive on the dull side.. I buy Mona Lisa at Michaels. 3. Let it sit until it dries (ideally one hour). 4. Apply to the model. 5. Trim as you would BMF. 6. Clean up with water using a microfiber cloth. 7. Wait for the oohs and aahs. Check out my '47 Ford in the workbench section for a look at the results.
RJWood Posted January 9, 2009 Posted January 9, 2009 Great tip Marcus, thanks for posting it. I will go to Michael's on Sunday, with my coupon ( hope I get one this week) and pick up some adhesive and practice your money saving technique.
mageckman Posted January 10, 2009 Posted January 10, 2009 Marcus, I'm glad you decided to post this over here on this great forum. I saw it when you had posted it over in the "other" forum. I have tried it and found it works beautifully, but I had to make one change. I use clear paint as my adhesive. I don't have a Michaels around here and Hobby Lobby didn't have the Mona Lisa products the last time I checked, so I had to experiment. It turns out as good if not better than BMF in my opinion and its cheaper by far.
Smart-Resins Posted January 10, 2009 Posted January 10, 2009 So If I use clear , then how Do I use that for the wrap? I assume spray it on the wrap, then when its tacky9?0 apply it? I use duplicolor automotive clear. I have never been able to use foil. But perhaps if you guys can shed some light on this using clear as a adhesive for the wrap I can try it? Thanks. Jody
mageckman Posted January 10, 2009 Posted January 10, 2009 I actually use a brush and paint it in the part I want to foil. give it 15 minutes to half an hour to tack up. Then I apply my foil over top of that, burnish it down real good, and then trim the excess away. Hope this helps
Helipilot16 Posted January 11, 2009 Author Posted January 11, 2009 Marcus, I'm glad you decided to post this over here on this great forum. I saw it when you had posted it over in the "other" forum. I have tried it and found it works beautifully, but I had to make one change. I use clear paint as my adhesive. I don't have a Michaels around here and Hobby Lobby didn't have the Mona Lisa products the last time I checked, so I had to experiment. It turns out as good if not better than BMF in my opinion and its cheaper by far. I have found no satisfactory substitute for foil adhesive. I believe Walmart carries it.
LUKE'57 Posted January 11, 2009 Posted January 11, 2009 (edited) When I told ya'll that regular foil was a lot better than BareMetal and that the MicroScale Metal Foil Adhesive didn't have a shelf life like the BareMetal I got ignored or told that BareMetal was the best thing for models. Glad someone that you would listen to discovered the "secret" and shared it with ya'll. Edited January 11, 2009 by LUKE'57
James Flowers Posted January 12, 2009 Posted January 12, 2009 I have used the chrome foil tape that is used for heating and air conditioning duck work.
Eshaver Posted January 12, 2009 Posted January 12, 2009 James, I too use the Tape for certain jobs that don't require a lot of detail to show through. It has it's strong suites. The Bare metal is what I suffer through when the job that requires a Rib or there are a lot of textures that need to come through . Ed Shaver
crazyjim Posted January 13, 2009 Posted January 13, 2009 Wait a minute! You use plain old Reynolds Wrap for chrome strips? I'm still trying to get the hang of BMF. I guess I'll have to find a Michael's for the adhesive you mentioned.
crazyjim Posted January 13, 2009 Posted January 13, 2009 I called my local Michael's and Wal-Mart and they have no idea what Mona Lisa adhesive is. Can you get more specific - part number or a picture? Thanks.
Helipilot16 Posted January 13, 2009 Author Posted January 13, 2009 I called my local Michael's and Wal-Mart and they have no idea what Mona Lisa adhesive is. Can you get more specific - part number or a picture? Thanks. It's foil adhesive, usually used for applying gold leaf. It's mfd by Houston Art, Inc. Their web site is www.houstonart.com. The UPC # is 0010207. Nancy informs me that it was first mfd for use on fabrics.
Helipilot16 Posted January 13, 2009 Author Posted January 13, 2009 Ben Franklin's has it as well as many large fabric stores. Any place that sells gold leaf will have it.
Helipilot16 Posted January 14, 2009 Author Posted January 14, 2009 I just came up with a really nifty improvement to my process. I rolled out a one square foot piece of Reynolds Wrap shiny side down. I then applied the adhesive as usual. After letting it set up, I placed it adhesive side down on a piece of wax paper. I now have a one square foot piece of sticky foil for about 2 cents or so. It should last about forever.
Harry P. Posted January 14, 2009 Posted January 14, 2009 I've heard just the opposite on this technique than what you suggest... that is, to use the cheap, dollar store foil instead of the name brand stuff, because the cheap stuff is thinner and follows contours and tiny molded details like emblems and scripts better.
Harry P. Posted January 14, 2009 Posted January 14, 2009 I just came up with a really nifty improvement to my process. I rolled out a one square foot piece of Reynolds Wrap shiny side down. I then applied the adhesive as usual. After letting it set up, I placed it adhesive side down on a piece of wax paper. I now have a one square foot piece of sticky foil for about 2 cents or so. It should last about forever. Will that adhesive lose its "stick" after a while? What do you figure the "shelf life" of a large piece with the adhesive already applied would be?
Helipilot16 Posted January 14, 2009 Author Posted January 14, 2009 Will that adhesive lose its "stick" after a while? What do you figure the "shelf life" of a large piece with the adhesive already applied would be? I have removed foil months after application and the adhesive is still "sticky". If air doesn't get to it, it should last indefinitely. The wax paper keeps it from evaporating. As to which foil to use; apparently Reynold Wrap makes different thicknesses of foil. Avoid anything labelled "heavy duty". Use the ordinary Reynolds Wrap found in dollar stores. The difference between this and generic brands is the quality (uniformity of thickness, primarily). Too thin and you lose the advantages of using Reynolds Wrap; I.E. it tears as easily as BMF. On the other forum I showed an example of a plastic spoon on which I had foiled over the trademark on the back of the spoon. It showed the writing clearly.
Helipilot16 Posted January 14, 2009 Author Posted January 14, 2009 I have removed foil months after application and the adhesive is still "sticky". If air doesn't get to it, it should last indefinitely. The wax paper keeps it from evaporating. As to which foil to use; apparently Reynold Wrap makes different thicknesses of foil. Avoid anything labelled "heavy duty". Use the ordinary Reynolds Wrap found in dollar stores. The difference between this and generic brands is the quality (uniformity of thickness, primarily). Too thin and you lose the advantages of using Reynolds Wrap; I.E. it tears as easily as BMF. On the other forum I showed an example of a plastic spoon on which I had foiled over the trademark on the back of the spoon. It showed the writing clearly. I just found two more rolls of foil in our pantry. One roll is Reynolds Wrap marked as "heavy duty". It is way too thick and stiff to use. Another roll I found is from Home Best (a generic store brand, I'm sure). It is identical to my dollar store Reynolds Wrap. I would imagine it is also made by Reynolds Aluminum. It is perfectly satisfactory. So, Harry, you are right; use the generic brand or regular (non heavy duty) Reynolds Wrap.
tuffone20 Posted January 14, 2009 Posted January 14, 2009 Ok I'm going to be giving this a try tomorrow as I found the Mona Lisa adhesive at Michael's and just picked up some Reynolds wrap and will try it on an old body first. Can't wait to see how it works and if it's going to be saving me some money over buying BMF. Thanks for the tip...
lordairgtar Posted January 14, 2009 Posted January 14, 2009 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.p...&hl=47+ford I put your 47 ford post linky here to ease searching for it.
tuffone20 Posted January 15, 2009 Posted January 15, 2009 Here is a photo of the can Mona Lisa adhesive I picked up.
crazyjim Posted January 15, 2009 Posted January 15, 2009 Found it at houstonart.com. It appears they also have a foil adhesive pen available. I'm going to try and get to the local Michaels' and Hobby Lobby this weekend.
RJWood Posted January 15, 2009 Posted January 15, 2009 I picked up a 2oz. bottle of extra thick mona lisa at Michaels today. Dident need the coupon, as it was on clearance for $1.99 I should go back and get 1 or 2 more. Just need the Reynolds wrap and I'm ready to cook.
dryvr12 Posted January 19, 2009 Posted January 19, 2009 (edited) are there any house hold glues or what not instead of having to go ALL THE WAY to a store? Edited January 19, 2009 by dryvr12
Harry P. Posted January 19, 2009 Posted January 19, 2009 are there any house hold glues or what not instead of having to go ALL THE WAY to a staore? What's the problem... are you under house arrest or something???
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