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3D Printing reality


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On 6/1/2022 at 2:57 PM, 1930fordpickup said:

Don't give up Scott.  

I never give up, but I am finding I really enjoy the designing in Fusion and not the printing as much. I also like to make parts for existing kits, printing bodies is not really something I will do a l lot, just not my thing. I'm more into trucks anyway. I have very limited time at-home, weekends only. So, the time involved with printing takes away time from other things. However, I spend a ton of time in hotels and have lots of design time.

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On 5/30/2022 at 1:45 PM, my66s55 said:

I don't know guys. Most of your problems come from the lack of experience. People say Robert Burns body's are thick. I have stated and I will restate now. He has a reason and that is that a thicker body will be, the less inclined for failure. These print ready files you purchase on line are, for the most part, too thin. Hence the rips in one of Oldmopar's build. I have never had a failure when printing car bodies, or anything for that matter, on my Phrozen Shuffle 2018 that I converted to 4k two years ago. But then, the printer is  a step up from what you are using. As to thickness, I make my car bodies at 1.6 to 1.7 mm thickness. I checked the thickness on a couple of printable bodies and the max thickness was 1.4 mm. Also leave the bodies in the build plate for post curing. If you insist in using the too thin bodies, leave the supports on after post curing. The resin continues to cure afterwards. Thus, the warping. I totally avoid making anything real thin. It will eventually warp over time. When you encounter a body such as the one Oldsmopars is having trouble with remember that 3d printing is an additive process. Lowering the angle will increase the quality of the build. a 15 to 20 degree printed with the front down should do wonders. There should be no reason not to be able to print Oldmopars body correctly.

What's missing is experience. 

So I will disagree, I have 9 resin printers 4 Mars 3 3 Saturns 1 Saturn S and a Phrozen Mega 8K. So with that out of the way, they all work and behave similarly, yes the phrozen is better built as a machine from aesthetic properties, but mechanically more or less the same minus the immense build plate on the mega. I can and have printed very thin bodies and I have printed my engines at 1.1mm wall thickness, but at that thickness warpage becomes an issue. IMHO it's about settings and what resin you use. There's a big difference in printability of say Anycubic, Elegoo, Opto... Resin and the better stuff like Phrozen, Loctite l, Siraya, yes I think Siraya is a better resin. Get the exposure and supports right and you can print paper thin objects, of course durability becomes an issue but it will print.

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On 5/30/2022 at 9:56 PM, my66s55 said:

I didn't insult your printer. My Shuffle 2018 is a step up from the printers you considered. A company like Phrozen also makes a better quality line as well as the hobby printers. I've had my Shuffle XL since September 2018. It's electronics aren't cheap Chinese and the software isn't Chitubox garbage. A Raspberry Pi 3b ( you know-not made in Mainland China) powers a main mother board, a much better designed led array, the lcd and 3 fans. The software is NanoDLP which runs circles around Chitubox. The z axis is secured at the top and not hanging in mid air. The dual z axis has 2 slides and very high quality glides. There is a solid metal build plate with a solid metal fixture that holds it to the glides.. I started 3d printing in August 2013 when I built me first printer. It was a diy fdm machine. That's when I started learning to use Blender. I build my second 3d printer in the fall of 2014. It was a DLP resin printer. Back then there was a program called Creation Workshop that ran the machine. There was no auto support generator so I had to learn how to place supports. Since I've built my own printers, I know what it takes to make a good printer and how the printer actually works. As far as printing goes, I know what works and what doesn't. As a side note, the working basics of these resin printers your using weren't developed by some company. The open source community back in 2014 started experimenting with resin DLP printers and Kickstarters were used to fun small startups This is where Formlabs came from. Circa early 2016, the open source community started developing a resin printer using one powerful led for curing. That only allowed a small surface for curing so someone started using an led array. I know all this because I was there and was a member of a couple of diy forums. In November 2016, a couple of built printers came out of China. One was the Wanhoo Duplicator 7. It was roughly constructed and Wanhoo relied on the open source community to help them fix it. Circa 2017, a group of 3d printer enthusiasts from Taiwan formed and made a printer called the Make and started a kickstarter to fund it. It was a success so they improve it and made a printer called Shuffle. That company is Phrozen. They gained a reputation for building good, affordable printers that still exists today. Both the printers and the reputation. The Shuffle XL followed and that's when I bought mine. Check it out.

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You do 100% come off as an elitist, but Nano DLP is outdated and not that great. With all the hate on Chitubox I still say it's a fine product if you're willing to pay to play, yes basic is horrible but pro is not. As far as mainland china electronics being garbage I am a red blooded American served in the US Navy and am patriotic but the chitu infrastructure is very good. But hey what do I know. Oh and 15-20° is probably only marginally better than printing flat on the plate. It's all about suction force, and ideally you want as little surface area on a given layer as possible especially in one area, when you get to the roof lots of it will be exposed at once at 20°. 

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Edited by Texas_3D_Customs
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On 6/3/2022 at 8:54 AM, Oldmopars said:

I never give up, but I am finding I really enjoy the designing in Fusion and not the printing as much. I also like to make parts for existing kits, printing bodies is not really something I will do a l lot, just not my thing. I'm more into trucks anyway. I have very limited time at-home, weekends only. So, the time involved with printing takes away time from other things. However, I spend a ton of time in hotels and have lots of design time.

I think that's one of the things that makes this work so well, I hate designing I love printing and have a lot of time at home being I only work 2½ miles from home.

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2 hours ago, CabDriver said:

@Texas_3D_Customs - what is that bottom body?  And the 50s looking racer with the fin behind the driver’s head?  Love the looks of both of those!

I don't know which body you are referring to there's like 4 but there's an Electra a Caprice a custom jDM and a Ponton oh and a slowmaro funny car

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2 hours ago, Oldcarfan27 said:

Wow, 3d technology has advanced so fast since the days of choppy layers and brittle materials. Those look as good as plastic kits and resin molds!

Yes and no depends on who's doing it and the material is still somewhat brittle and I think mine are better than molds

Edited by Texas_3D_Customs
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12 minutes ago, Texas_3D_Customs said:

Yes and no depends on who's doing it and the material is still somewhat brittle and I think mine are better than molds


I saw some before and after pics of the UV curing and Wow that makes a difference as well.

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