Has anyone channeled a Revel '37 Ford pickup?

[BadJuju]

I just bought the 2022 release.  I'll build it as a highboy, so I'd like to channel it to hide the frame.  Anyone who has done so, could you please share how you did it?  Thanks!

[Ace-Garageguy]

Channeling on any car is by definition nothing but lowering the body relative to the frame.

To accomplish this on any car, you determine where the frame contacts the body and floor, then carefully remove material from same, allowing the body to come down.

Every channel job is different, and yours won't be exactly like anyone else's, but the procedure is the same no matter what it is.

I recommend removing a little at a time, check your stance frequently, (with suspension and forward bodywork tacked in place), and resist the temptation to go too low initially.

Measure and mockup a LOT, work slowly and carefully, and engage your brain to think through how things are interrelated.

 

[Plowboy]

I did it years ago Garry. But, my memory of how I did it isn't very good. What I do recall is that I notched the rear of the cab and the firewall to lower it over the frame. Then, I cut the floorpan loose from the fender unit and simply glued it to the frame. 

Dennis Lacy built a very cool looking high boy version years ago. I'm pretty sure he posted it here. Go to his profile and look through his topics. You should be able to find it. I'll see if I can snag a photo of it for you.

One thing I forgot to mention is that mine doesn’t have a stock firewall. I had to cut it away and replace it with a recessed piece to fit the engine.

 

Edited June 4, 2022 by Plowboy

[Ace-Garageguy]

Roger's mastered the idea, obviously...and it's just like you do a real one.

I just pulled the kit to have a look...the rear of the cab and the firewall determine how low you can go with the cab relative to the frame rails.

Start by mocking up the frame with the suspension and wheel / tire combo you want to use tacked in place.

This will determine the ride height, which you need to establish first.

The firewall is already pretty high in front, so I'd begin trimming the rear wall of the cab a little at a time. Then, holding it level relative to the frame, check the height by placing the cab on the rails after each trim to see where you are (I'd also tack the hood, hood sides, and grille to the body so you don't get the nose too low).

When you get the look you're after, cut the floor section loose from the fender unit and install the floor in the cab so it holds it where you mocked it up.

You'll also need to take slices out of the bed floor to clear the chassis, so you can lower it to match the cab.

Edited June 4, 2022 by Ace-Garageguy
CLARITY

[Plowboy]

Here's a photo of Dennis' '37 that I snagged.

http://public.fotki.com/deucepu/37-pickup-chopped--/dscn5720.html

 

[EngineerBob]

Previous posters provided excellent advice on how to channel a car/model but, in regards to your initial post, if you are going to channel the body over the frame then, by definition, you aren't building a "highboy". A highboy hot rod sits on top of the frame like originally from the factory. What you're describing is a "lowboy" or just channeled hot rod.

[Ace-Garageguy]

1 hour ago, EngineerBob said:

...in regards to your initial post, if you are going to channel the body over the frame then, by definition, you aren't building a "highboy". A highboy hot rod sits on top of the frame like originally from the factory. What you're describing is a "lowboy" or just channeled hot rod.

He's right, you know.    

[Plowboy]

9 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

He's right, you know.    

Kinda. But, the '37 pickup's body can't set on top of the frame rails as the body is wider than the frame. Even stock with the running boards removed, it almost covers the frame rails. If I'm not mistaken, '33 and later Fords are the same.

[Zippi]

I've got this kit so this should be pretty kewl to see how this one developes.  

[BadJuju]

Thanks for your input, everyone!  It all aligns with what I've read about channeling (I have a half dozen or so Revell Deuces I also want to channel).  Not having the '37 kit in hand yet, the advice from those who have that specific one already is especially helpful.  I also forgot to say I have the '37 convertible kit, which I'm using for donor parts on a few builds (that chassis will go under a '40 coupe rat rod), which I may use for some stuff on this one.

I've seen others, like me, use "highboy" as meaning no fenders or running boards, so "lowboy" is obviously a better term.

Here's what a 1:1 '37 pickup looks like without fenders and running boards.  The cab and box do sit on top of the frame if not channeled, and yes, they do go partly over the rails.

Since (unlike a Deuce) the frame is not styled to meet the body, it leads me to want to channel it.  In looking at these photos, the cab MIGHT be lowered some without lowering the box, but simply adding "skirts" and a roll pan to the latter.  I've seen that done in 1:1 pickup photos.

And yep, the firewall, radiator, radiator shell, hoses, & FEAD well all need some work, too.  The hood sides will be open; I'm undecided about the top.  I'll use the '37 pickup radiator shell, or maybe try something with the convertible one.  I don't like the '38.

I'm using the kit customized flathead.  I may top the carbs with stacks instead of air cleaners, which will drive the hood decision.  I'm leaning toward using the kit headers and duals, so clearance for those will be part of the channeling procesa., too.

Thanks again for all the excellent input & your interest!  I'll post photos as I go.

 

[BadJuju]

Sorry for the typos above.  Also, to be clear, by hood sides being open, I mean I won't have any hood sides at all.

[Plowboy]

1 hour ago, BadJuju said:

 

Since (unlike a Deuce) the frame is not styled to meet the body, it leads me to want to channel it.  In looking at these photos, the cab MIGHT be lowered some without lowering the box, but simply adding "skirts" and a roll pan to the latter.  I've seen that done in 1:1 pickup photos.

 

That's what I did with mine. I wanted the bottom of the cab and bed to be on the same plane. This thread has given me a hankering to build another '37 pickup. Too many other projects going right now though.

[BadJuju]

That's how it goes.  You see an inspiring build, or a reissue happens, or a new tool comes out, and there go the wheel$ of creativity again.  

[BadJuju]

These two are channeled about like what I want.  Plowboy's modified firewall is indeed much cleaner than stock, so I'm likely to try something similar, especially if I go with no hood entirely, or even no hood sides.  The latter photo gives me pause to consider keeping them as I rather like the curve they give.

[BadJuju]

Got the reissue today.  Here's what I've learned about how much I want to channel the body.

I want the rear corner of the cab to be flush with the bottom of the frame (circled below).  Going forward from there, the cab will sweep up, revealing more and more of the frame.  This juxtaposition would remind me of an exposed Deuce frame, with its curve that matches the fender curve.

The edge of the cab does come down partway over the frame.  When I remove the running board, I'll also have to remove its thickness from the floorboard lip that also goes down partway over the frame, to keep it flush to the bottom of the cab.  The vertical thickness of the running board is shown below as ~1.2mm.

The frame goes down below the bottom of the running board by ~2mm, before the running board thickness is removed, as shown by the arrows below.

So it means I'm looking to channel the body by 3.2mm.  Using 3mm masking tape as a guide, and allowing for the kerf of my razor saw, should be a good approach.  Here's what that looks like at the back of the cab.

On the box sides, it would look like cutting off this, If I want to keep the top in line with the molding on the cab.  I'd need to fill in and cut a new fuel filler hole on the driver side.  If I leave the box alone, it will obscure the molding on the back of the cab, but not go above the window.  I've seen it done both ways on photos of 1:1 subjects.  It's aesthetics vs keeping the box stock and at full capacity.  Either way, I'll add a "skirt" and roll pan to the bottom of it to align with the cab bottom.

I'd choose to section the radiator as below.  Shortening the fan shroud and water pipes by 3.2mm off the bottom appears to be no problem (no photos).  Either a parts box electric fan or adding a scratch belt and pully to the FEAD is required to lower the fan appropriately.  The radiator shell would need to be lowered 3.2mm, as well.  That work is a long way off yet, and I'll show it when I cross that bridge.

Here's what it would look like to take the same amount off the bottom of the firewall.  I'd also remove the parts that extend below the upward curve of the cab.  Again, I may go with a modified, cleaner and flatter firewall, a la Plowboy.

This photo shows it would be easiest to remove the height from the front portion of the interior, only affecting the area below the seat cushion.  I'll also be looking into the possibility of using intrior parts from a Revell '37 Ford convertible donor kit I've been robbing for parts in other builds (as mentioned above).

I've decided to chop the cab 3mm (~3" in 1/25 scale) up in the glass area.  In so doing, I'll be tilting the A pillars to the rear.  I'll show that when tackled, as well.

Thanks for looking in and I hope this topic is useful to those who have, or are looking to buy, this kit and modify it similarly.  More to come as I actually start the surgery!

Edited June 10, 2022 by BadJuju

[Plowboy]

One suggestion regarding sectioning the radiator: make your first cut lower like just above the flat area where the bottom hoses mount. That way, when you glue it back together, there won't be a noticeable line. Looks like you have it planned out well. I didn’t remember the door panels having a notch in them. But, it's been a while since I built mine. When you get started, post a thread in the progress section.

[BadJuju]

Thanks, Plowboy!  I'll have to learn how to post to the progress section.  Also, one more thing I love about your build is moving the front axle forward.  Do you recall what you did there?

One mistake: In thought the stock position of the box relative to the cab had its top in line with the cab side molding.  It does not (see photo of another's completed stock truck below).  I'll take more measurements next time I have it out and post an update.  Maybe I don't need to section the bed after all.

Edited June 10, 2022 by BadJuju

[Plowboy]

To post in the WIP section, just do the same thing you did here. Just press the start topic button and go.

To lengthen and drop the front, I scratch built new frame horns and glued the cross member to them. I had a photo that showed them well. But, I deleted it a couple of weeks ago. I'll check my Flickr account and see if I have one there. 

 

 

 

 

[BadJuju]

Wow!  Thanks!

[Plowboy]

You're welcome Garry! I did have a photo of the chassis!

Now that I look at it, I think the cross member is a piece of channel instead of the kit piece.

 

[BadJuju]

Super work, Roger!   It looks like you only had the stock front axle, and so, Z-ed the frame, too.  Since the 2 in 1 kit I have has the drop axle, I'll just have to extend the front horns and crossmember.

I went and bought another kit, too, so I can build one with the full hood and get that nice arched curve up front, a la that 1:1 example I showed earlier.

Edited June 11, 2022 by BadJuju

[BadJuju]

I measured from the top of the cab trim to the top of the box side.  It's between 3.2mm and 3.8mm, depending on how well I can see the top of the trim.  So I'll be able to line them up about perfectly with my planned 3.2mm cab channel!  I'll only have to lower the front wall of the box, down to the height of the tailgate top, in order to see the whole arched cab trim.

[BadJuju]

I started cutting.  I separated the front fenders & running boards from the cab & box floors.  Here I marked the cab floor location before cutting, and scored the tops of the frame rails so I can see them after painting.  I had to do this step because there are no positive locating features.  The angled step in the frame lines up to the front of the cab floor.

I'm using the Revell Foose '56 F-100 engine & trans.  It's a Roush Ford big block.  Instead of doing major surgery on the frame x-brace, and since I wanted to move the front axle forward anyway, I'm sitting the engine & trans as shown.  To do so, I trimmed off the trans locating tab that was just aft of the trans pan.

This assembly extends 8mm forward of where the flathead reached, so I'll need to lengthen the frame rails accordingly.  I'll also need to shorten the driveshaft.  Dimensions on that when I reach that point.

I'll lengthen the frame rails with styrene inserts just aft of the front suspension cross member.  Ahead of the x-brace, I'll spread the frame rails under hot water to provide for the resulting additional taper, thus preserving the cross member width.

The cab floor and interior tunnel will need modification to fit the trans (see below how it doesn't sit flat on the frame).  Again, more details when I cross that bridge.  The engine & trans will sit flat once I extend the frame, so I'll do that before determining how much surgery will be required on the floor & tunnel.  Scratch engine mounts will also be required.  Not shown is that (so far) my estimate for the channeling seems to be about right.  Can't verify that until I get the floor & interior to sit flat.

Since the radiator must also move forward, the hood needs to be longer.  I may mostly solve things by laying back the radiator shell, like Plowboy did, since its top needs to be lower in order to align with the channeled body anyway.  Another approach would be to use the longer '38 hood & '38 shell, both of which come in the kit.  That hood is 11mm longer, so I'd be lengthening the frame another 3mm for that approach.  I don't like the '38 grille, though.  We'll see.  Different radius rods & coolant hoses will also be required.

Stay tuned!  I will keep the updates here, instead of the WIP area, to keep the thread all in one place.  Or maybe I can find out whether the whole thread can be moved there.

Edited June 14, 2022 by BadJuju

[Plowboy]

I would reconsider lengthening the frame. That's what I did to mine at first and it made the front end waaaay too long and out of proportion. Or it did to me. Also, you'll want to keep the rear of your engine as close to the firewall as possible. I would suggest to temporarily glue the cab to the frame and work from there. If the transmission is a fit problem, maybe switch over to a manual. 

[BadJuju]

Well, I really like yours, and many 1:1 photos I've seen with the fronts pushed forward (see red ones I posted above).  Thanks for the tip about mocking up the cab and engine together.  I'll definitely do that before I do any frame cutting.  I will also look for a manual trans to swap...maybe one from a Moebius '66 F100 kit I have.

Edited June 14, 2022 by BadJuju