Need input from anyone who can crank out contest quality paint jobs

[RT6PK]

I read a tutorial on painting years ago that I have followed with success. It goes as follows:

1. Once the paint has dried, sand the color with 3600 grit.
2. Apply  6 coats of Tamiya TS-13 clear gloss.
3. After the clear dries, sand with 3200 grit, then 3600 grit, then 4000 grit, then 6000 grit.
4. Polish with Novus #2. (this was not in the original article, I added this step)
5. Polish with Tamiya "FINE" polishing compound.
6. Polish with Tamiya "FINISH" polishing compound.

I used this procedure on the red '48 Ford, (and many builds) shown below and was very happy with the results. For some reason, this procedure doesn't work anymore. See the blue '34 Ford pickup below. I cannot get rid of the "haze". I even polished through the clear coat and had to re-clear it. I am using the exact same procedure but I am NOT getting the same results. What am I doing wrong? Did Tamiya change the formula in their clear coat? This is very frustrating. HELP???

 

 

[Keef]

It almost looks like some kind of reaction between the paint and the surface it was applied to. I’m not a professional painter by any means, just going from personal experience. Possible humidity issues caused paint or clear to “blush”?

[Muncie]

It might not be the polishes that you are using. Not what I use, but all of them are good products.  It could be what you are polishing with.  At one time, I used paper towels and noticed I was starting to get some haze in my final polish.  It turned out that different brands seemed to be "more abrasive" (for lack of a better word).  I went back to the better brand and the shine came back.  Sometime later, the paper towel maker must have changed their manufacturing process because I started getting haze again.  Now I use a good microfiber towel that I only use for polishing.

[RT6PK]

Thanks for the replies. I used all Tamiya products; primer, paint, and clear coat. The polish was applied with a Tamiya polish application sponge, and it was buffed off with a Tamiya microfiber  cloth.

 

The clear coat was applied 5 day ago. Maybe that was not enough cure time?

[Mike 1017]

I use automotive products such as Turtle Wax rubbing compound, Meguiars' wax, polish and speed detailer. I also use them to detail my car.

Good Luck

Mike

[RT6PK]

1 hour ago, Mike 1017 said:

I use automotive products such as Turtle Wax rubbing compound, Meguiars' wax, polish and speed detailer. I also use them to detail my car.

Good Luck

Mike

Mike, what type of clear do you use?

[Plowboy]

I would go over it with the Fine and Finish again. I use the Course, Fine and Finish on mine. I've actually just sanded the clear with 2000 and went with the Tamiya compounds. Sometimes, I'll hit it with 4000 grit and even 6000. But, usually 4000 is plenty. I've been thinking about using the Tamiya wax for that extra step. But, so far, I really haven't needed it. Like you, I use all Tamiya products. 

Edited January 1, 2023 by Plowboy

[Mike 1017]

3 hours ago, RT6PK said:

Mike, what type of clear do you use?

Testors,Tamiya, and Wicked Colors clears

[LL3 Model Worx]

Use a piece of flannel and do it again... micro fiber sucks for buffing on models and 1:1.

Viva Cloth paper towels work half decent also. But 100% flannel is the way to go for sure.

[jaymcminn]

I buy white cotton flannel by the yard at the fabric store and cut off what I need (usually about 4" square pieces) as I go. It's cheap and perfect for polishing. I don't wash the cloths after I use them... I just dispose of them to keep any dried polish or contaminants from affecting my work. Microfiber will pick up contaminants such as polishing abrasives and hold them in the fibers. Washing or rinsing won't always get it all out. Another nice thing about the flannel is that there are no seams, tags or edge stitching to possibly cause scratching. When I clear coat it's always with TS13 and I never have a problem. For polishing compounds I use Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Polish, which are the best I've ever found for either 1:1 or scale applications. They don't leave anything on the finish which allows for paint, foil or decal work over the polished surface. 

 

[StevenGuthmiller]

Nothing special or interesting for me.

I use scraps of any kind of soft cotton material that I have around.

There are always cotton T-shirts or flannel of some sort that's heading for the trash, so rather than pitch it, I cut it up and use it for polishing.

 

I use a Micro-Mesh polishing kit for my sanding purposes, usually starting at about 3600 or 4000, and working my way down to 12000.

Then, with the scrap cloths, I use a little Novus #2 "Light Scratch Remover" followed by Turtle Wax "Scratch and Swirl Remover".

 

Probably not the most perfect finish in the world, but I seem to get plenty of compliments, so I figure I must be doing okay.

 

By the way, I use Duplicolor, Perfect Match, "Protective Clear Coat Finish" straight out of the spray can, (usually about 5 coats) for my clear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

[LL3 Model Worx]

2 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Nothing special or interesting for me.

I use scraps of any kind of soft cotton material that I have around.

There are always cotton T-shirts or flannel of some sort that's heading for the trash, so rather than pitch it, I cut it up and use it for polishing.

 

I use a Micro-Mesh polishing kit for my sanding purposes, usually starting at about 3600 or 4000, and working my way down to 12000.

Then, with the scrap cloths, I use a little Novus #2 "Light Scratch Remover" followed by Turtle Wax "Scratch and Swirl Remover".

 

Probably not the most perfect finish in the world, but I seem to get plenty of compliments, so I figure I must be doing okay.

 

By the way, I use Duplicolor, Perfect Match, "Protective Clear Coat Finish" straight out of the spray can, (usually about 5 coats) for my clear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

Looks great Steve... I don't have much luck with the duplicolor clear out of the can though... always seems to orange peel to hell and back on me no matter what. Wich is nuts because I use it on guitars and other various car parts all the time with fantastic results... but oh well ?

I bought a couple of quarts of it at Ollie's a while back for $6 a can and now I just blow it through the airbrush. Works well.