Need some help with Molotov VS Revell Chrome

[ctruss53]

37 minutes ago, Len Woodruff said:

Thanks for the info. Do you have a US source that has it in stock?

USA Gundam Store should have it.

I think Iceman that does the 3D printing also sells it.

[Len Woodruff]

20 minutes ago, ctruss53 said:

USA Gundam Store should have it.

I think Iceman that does the 3D printing also sells it.

Thanks Chad. I cheked ICEMAN and he shows Out of Stock. I will check USA Gundam store.

[Len Woodruff]

23 minutes ago, ctruss53 said:

USA Gundam Store should have it.

I think Iceman that does the 3D printing also sells it.

They have cold & warm tones. Which is best for bumpers?

[ctruss53]

I use the cold tone.

[Len Woodruff]

4 minutes ago, ctruss53 said:

I use the cold tone.

Thanks.

[ctruss53]

1 hour ago, Len Woodruff said:

Thanks.

NOTE:

SMS doesn't look right when you spray it on the part.  There is a process, like any chrome paint seems to have.

1. Make sure your part has a high gloss finish without any junk in it. They claim you can spray SMS Hyperchrome over any color as long as it has a high gloss finish, but I have only ever sprayed it over black.

2. SMS seems to work equally well on top of paint or clearcoat. So I don't think it matters, it just matters that the surface is high gloss and clean.

3. Apply SMS in light mist coats. 3-5 minutes between coats. Until you get the look you want.

4. SMS doesn't come out mirror finish, it looks dusty or hazy. Once you get complete coverage and it is as bright as you want it, stop applying it. Let it cure at least overnight, to 24 hours. Again, it will look hazy or dusty.

5. Once it has cured about 24 hours, then you buff it with a clean dry lint free cloth. Then it will shine up like it does in my photo.

So since there is a process, practice on some spoons or spare parts.

Edited April 3, 2023 by ctruss53

[Len Woodruff]

5 minutes ago, ctruss53 said:

NOTE:

SMS doesn't look right when you spray it on the part.  There is a process, like any chrome paint seems to have.

1. Make sure your part has a high gloss finish without any junk in it. They claim you can spray SMS Hyperchrome over any color as long as it has a high gloss finish, but I have only ever sprayed it over black.

2. SMS seems to work equally well on top of paint and clearcoat. So I don't think it matters, it just matters that the surface is high gloss and clean.

3. Apply SMS in light mist coats. 3-5 minutes between coats. Until you get the look you want.

4. SMS doesn't come out mirror finish, it looks dusty or hazy. Once you get complete coverage and it is as bright as you want it, stop applying it. Let it cure at least overnight, to 24 hours. Again, it will look hazy or dusty.

5. Once it has cured about 24 hours, then you buff it with a clean dry lint free cloth. Then it will shine up like it does in my photo.

So since there is a process, practice on some spoons or spare parts.

Wow thanks for the steps on using SMS Chad

[ctruss53]

17 minutes ago, Len Woodruff said:

Wow thanks for the steps on using SMS Chad

You're welcome.

I am sharing because I have tried 6-7 different chrome paints. I have tried several different techniques on all of the different chrome paints. I have been wasting time and money to get a good chrome finish. Now that I have found one, why not share so we all don't have to waste the time and money that I have.  haha

[Rodent]

Forgive me if I missed it if it has been mentioned, but what do you clean the airbrush with?

[ctruss53]

2 minutes ago, Rodent said:

Forgive me if I missed it if it has been mentioned, but what do you clean the airbrush with?

I use lacquer thinner to clean any paint out of my airbrush, except enamels. For those I use enamel thinner.

Chrome paints are all inks or lacquers, so you can use lacquer thinner.

[Michael jones]

SMS hyperchrome tends to give the best compromise of shine vs durability. The others are pretty much redundant or only good for items not being touched at my house.

[Len Woodruff]

6 minutes ago, Michael jones said:

SMS hyperchrome tends to give the best compromise of shine vs durability. The others are pretty much redundant or only good for items not being touched at my house.

Thx Michael. I ordered it from USA Gundam and should get it in the next few days.

[Art Laski]

On 4/3/2023 at 6:55 AM, ctruss53 said:

I think you will be happy with SMS Hyperchrome.

I have tried all sorts of chromes, trying to find one that shines bright AND can actually be touched. SMS has fit the bill the best so far for me. Take a look at the engine pic I posted above.

Your SMS chrome looks good! I'm anxious to try it.

[Len Woodruff]

On 4/3/2023 at 2:37 PM, ctruss53 said:

I use lacquer thinner to clean any paint out of my airbrush, except enamels. For those I use enamel thinner.

Chrome paints are all inks or lacquers, so you can use lacquer thinner.

I am going to start testing tomorrow. Can I use Tamiya Lacquer Gloss Balck for the base?

[Rodent]

How did your test go? I painted some spoons with SpazStix black, then clear. Nice and shiny. I made some other tests, and I shot some SMS on one of them last night at 15 psi through my Paasche H.

Observations:

I don't know what was on the spoon, but the SpazStix went on fine. The SMS immediately started to fisheye.

I put a little more on than I normally would have to try to flow out the fisheye.

It really does look like (as our friends across the pond say) a dog's breakfast when you first spray it.

It got shinier as it dried.

About 20 hours after I shot it, I started to polish it, using the t-shirt I am currently wearing.

It seems kinda soft and easy to scratch.

I like the shine. I was hesitant to polish too much, but it seems to get shinier the more you polish it.

If I can get around the fisheye issue, this might be good.

 

[Dpate]

2 hours ago, Rodent said:

How did your test go? I painted some spoons with SpazStix black, then clear. Nice and shiny. I made some other tests, and I shot some SMS on one of them last night at 15 psi through my Paasche H.

Observations:

I don't know what was on the spoon, but the SpazStix went on fine. The SMS immediately started to fisheye.

I put a little more on than I normally would have to try to flow out the fisheye.

It really does look like (as our friends across the pond say) a dog's breakfast when you first spray it.

It got shinier as it dried.

About 20 hours after I shot it, I started to polish it, using the t-shirt I am currently wearing.

It seems kinda soft and easy to scratch.

I like the shine. I was hesitant to polish too much, but it seems to get shinier the more you polish it.

If I can get around the fisheye issue, this might be good.

 

That doesn't look like a chrome finish at all to me.  Spazstix black base sucks.  Do you got AK Xtreme metal black base or Alclad's black base? Those two are the only two black gloss bases i use for metal colors. There super easy to get a glossy smooth black base. Your spoon test looks like the chrome went on too heavy.  Doesn't look bad for what it is, but doesn't have that mirror chrome finish.

[Rodent]

50 minutes ago, Dpate said:

That doesn't look like a chrome finish at all to me.  Spazstix black base sucks.  Do you got AK Xtreme metal black base or Alclad's black base? Those two are the only two black gloss bases i use for metal colors. There super easy to get a glossy smooth black base. Your spoon test looks like the chrome went on too heavy.  Doesn't look bad for what it is, but doesn't have that mirror chrome finish.

Still experimenting here. I mentioned that it fisheyed, so I wound up putting it on too heavy to compensate. Also, my phone has too good of a camera, so it magnified the flaws in the sun.

I may have some Alclad base, I would have to look. Just painted another spoon with Tamiya gloss black and I am going to keep trying to see how this works out.

[Michael jones]

4 hours ago, Rodent said:

Still experimenting here. I mentioned that it fisheyed, so I wound up putting it on too heavy to compensate. Also, my phone has too good of a camera, so it magnified the flaws in the sun.

I may have some Alclad base, I would have to look. Just painted another spoon with Tamiya gloss black and I am going to keep trying to see how this works out.

Black enamel is the best to use, has to be super shiny. Then only just mist the SMS chrome on while the black is still wet/ tacky. If you are getting fish eyes, you are more than likely applying the chrome far too heavy....  

As far as I know, you don't polish it either.

Edited April 18, 2023 by Michael jones

[Len Woodruff]

Update on using the Green & SMS Chrome. I used Tamiya Gloss Black TS 14 shot from the can.

Then on 1 set I shot Spalsh Paints Urethane clear.

The pictures show the Green with & w/o clear. Then the SMS with & without clear.

Its hard t see in these pics but I can't tell much difference between the chromes or whether they had clear under them or not.

 

[StevenGuthmiller]

None of these look much like chrome to me.

Certainly not any better than Alclad.

Alclad "Polished Aluminum" looks more like chrome than most of what I'm seeing here.

 

A few small parts in Alclad chrome.

 

 

Gauge pod and gear shift Alclad.

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

[Len Woodruff]

Those certainly look good Steve.

[SfanGoch]

It costs more; but, Alsa Easy Chrome is the best on the market. Unlike Hyper Chrome, Alclad and especially Molotow Chrome ink, it doesn't require a clear topcoat to seal it, can be handled without rubbing off, never dulls and it looks like real chrome. Satisfied user since 2014.

[StevenGuthmiller]

3 hours ago, SfanGoch said:

It costs more; but, Alsa Easy Chrome is the best on the market. Unlike Hyper Chrome, Alclad and especially Molotow Chrome ink, it doesn't require a clear topcoat to seal it, can be handled without rubbing off, never dulls and it looks like real chrome. Satisfied user since 2014.

I've been resisting making that leap as I use these "spray on" chrome finishes as little as possible. (some I avoid completely)

But with the ever increasing possibility that there will be no more prospects for actual plating in the future, something like Alsa is an option that might be the only answer if you want something durable that actually looks like chrome.

 

I keep hoping that either there will be others to pick up the plating torch for us modelers, or some sort of advancement in systems that allow the modeler to do his own chrome at home affordably so that we can stop settling for these inadequate substitutions.

 

 

 

Steve 

[Rodent]

3 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I keep hoping that either there will be others to pick up the plating torch for us modelers.....

I have mentioned on here a couple of times that I (used to) work with one of Dale's sons. He had indicated to me quite a few times that he wanted to take over LMCC, but the logistics of moving the vacuum chamber and other equipment from Pennsylvania to California made it difficult, if not impossible. Early on in the pandemic, he quit, and I have no idea where he is now or what he is doing. Maybe he is living in Dale's basement now, plating model parts? Or not....

[Raoul Ross]

Has anybody tried this?

https://www.culturehustleusa.com/collections/potions/products/mirror