1/25 Revell Peterbilt 359

[cifenet]

On 6/17/2023 at 10:53 PM, Bills72sj said:

Amazing detail in progress. Your resilience in fixing boo boos is admirable.

Thank you, Bill! 

Looks like I am always breaking things as I build.  And it seems to be a repeating offense for me lately.  

[cifenet]

I am getting excited as the truck is looking like how I envisioned before I started the build.

 

The interior work is done and my problem with this decal getting ripped should be solved once I mount the exhaust here.

 

Overall, I wanted to have cool exterior looks for this truck and I tried to focus my attention on components such as fuel tank, wheel guards, and also air intake tanks.  The air intake tanks seem somewhat boring as they are, I gave some enhancement by adding this filter mesh. 

And yes, the mesh material is the same material that I used for the front grille which came from a frying pan splatter guard!  

After several trial and error sessions adding this mesh, I picked my design that I was satisfied with.

 

I preserved my custom made paint mix pre-thinned, I can always paint the same color anytime.  

The sleeper painting process has started.  I can confess that I did a bad job assembling the sleeper, but it is too late to go back and re-do.  As mentioned before, all four side panels don't quite fit well including the floor piece not sitting at the correct level. 

If I were to make this once more, I will definitely do a better job.

I am moving forward. 

 

I mounted the air cleaner tanks and exhaust components.

 

The kit only supplied license decals and I didn't like that.  So I decided to improve the look by:

1. made two license plate frames using plastic sheet

2. Painted the plates frames with silver

3. Applied the license decals

4. Applied two layers of clearcoat

5. Polished clearcoat

6. Added two stainless pins on each plate to simulate bolts

The result?  Still mediocre looking license plates.   Sometimes things do not come out and planned!

 

    

Fuel tanks mounted, wheel guards (quarter fenders) attached.  The frame is ready!

 

Now testing fitting sessions...

Air filter tanks mounted.

 

The front bumper is mounted.  And one driving lamp is misaligned.  Need to fix it.

 

Air filter tanks, exhaust components mounted.   I need to start thinking about what to do for my headache rack (literally).

Thanks for following!

[Straightliner59]

Man, it's looking a beauty, Steve. Very nice work, sir!

[cifenet]

15 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:

Man, it's looking a beauty, Steve. Very nice work, sir!

That is a big compliment coming from you, Daniel! 

 

[cifenet]

Another random progress update starting with decal applying activities.

 

The sleeper decals are aligned and applied.  I will apply multiple layers of clear and then paint the stainless steel trims around the doors. 

 

Having these items, I am able to create signal lens around this truck.  The first one is actually for adding details for Gundam kits, but I will gladly use them here. 

 

Painted clear yellow...

 

I had difficult time attaching these due to tight space, perhaps I should have attached them prior to mounting air filter tanks.  I have a feeling this won't be my last Peterbilt 359 build, I will plan it better next time.

 

Minor details were added, but I didn't feel like adding anything on the firewall area...  Hmmm.

 

The torpedo lights were dipped.

 

The supplied mud guards were bit thicker than what I wanted for this build.  I used thin plastic sheets, added wrinkles, and attached without further detailing.  I wanted to have a wider truck by mounting the wheels further apart, but then I forgot it made the bumper narrower.  Oops!

 

These 3 piece mirrors didn't appear to be an easy task to build.  I had to clean the parts by removing mold lines, injection pins,and also built-in antennas.

 

Time to mount mirrors and I had better success mounting them by not following Revell's instructions.

 

Based on my build experience, I found out that an easier way of building the mirror in this kit was to attach (1) first and make sure it stays perfectly horizontal.  I used CA glue for this application.

Once (1) is firmly attached, mounting (2) was easier and finally (3) was attached.  I hope the diagram above (as if you are looking at the truck's mirror from standing in front of the truck ) helps to visualize how the mirror mounts interact with the actual mirror piece.

 

Mirrors attached!

Finally began building the exhaust pipes for the truck. 

 

The pipe end was shaved to look sharper.   I don't think I will paint these pipes, I think just polishing them should bring out decent metal finish.

 

Exhaust pipes were temporarily mounted to confirm the ideal height.

 

And completed the mounting components to the pipe by building larger radius area and brackets.

 

Thanks for following so far!

 

 

 

Edited June 26, 2023 by cifenet

[Straightliner59]

On 6/21/2023 at 3:51 PM, cifenet said:

That is a big compliment coming from you, Daniel! 

 

Well, thank you, sir! It's much appreciated! The air cleaners and stacks look great!

Edited June 26, 2023 by Straightliner59

[Force]

On 6/26/2023 at 2:57 AM, cifenet said:

Another random progress update starting with decal applying activities.

 

The sleeper decals are aligned and applied.  I will apply multiple layers of clear and then paint the stainless steel trims around the doors. 

 

Having these items, I am able to create signal lens around this truck.  The first one is actually for adding details for Gundam kits, but I will gladly use them here. 

 

Painted clear yellow...

 

I had difficult time attaching these due to tight space, perhaps I should have attached them prior to mounting air filter tanks.  I have a feeling this won't be my last Peterbilt 359 build, I will plan it better next time.

 

Minor details were added, but I didn't feel like adding anything on the firewall area...  Hmmm.

 

The torpedo lights were dipped.

 

The supplied mud guards were bit thicker than what I wanted for this build.  I used thin plastic sheets, added wrinkles, and attached without further detailing.  I wanted to have a wider truck by mounting the wheels further apart, but then I forgot it made the bumper narrower.  Oops!

 

These 3 piece mirrors didn't appear to be an easy task to build.  I had to clean the parts by removing mold lines, injection pins,and also built-in antennas.

 

Time to mount mirrors and I had better success mounting them by not following Revell's instructions.

 

Based on my build experience, I found out that an easier way of building the mirror in this kit was to attach (1) first and make sure it stays perfectly horizontal.  I used CA glue for this application.

Once (1) is firmly attached, mounting (2) was easier and finally (3) was attached.  I hope the diagram above (as if you are looking at the truck's mirror from standing in front of the truck ) helps to visualize how the mirror mounts interact with the actual mirror piece.

 

Mirrors attached!

Finally began building the exhaust pipes for the truck. 

 

The pipe end was shaved to look sharper.   I don't think I will paint these pipes, I think just polishing them should bring out decent metal finish.

 

Exhaust pipes were temporarily mounted to confirm the ideal height.

 

And completed the mounting components to the pipe by building larger radius area and brackets.

 

Thanks for following so far!

 

 

 

To avoid silvering, do as the armor and aircraft modelers do, paint the part with a gloss color or with a gloss clearcoat, apply decal and then cover the whole thing in dull coat of desired lustre when the decals dried, then you will not have a problem with silvering wich happens because you put decals over a flat or semigloss surface and air is trapped under the decal film.
I have learned this from my armor and aircraft modeler friends where all models they do are with flat or semigloss paints., so many use Future Floor Polish or a gloss clear coat before decals and then dullcoat over everything.

[Rockford]

I have to laugh when you say "I'll do a better job next time", look at the thing, it's brilliant! I couldn't hope to do something of that quality! 

[cifenet]

8 hours ago, Force said:

To avoid silvering, do as the armor and aircraft modelers do, paint the part with a gloss color or with a gloss clearcoat, apply decal and then cover the whole thing in dull coat of desired lustre when the decals dried, then you will not have a problem with silvering wich happens because you put decals over a flat or semigloss surface and air is trapped under the decal film.
I have learned this from my armor and aircraft modeler friends where all models they do are with flat or semigloss paints., so many use Future Floor Polish or a gloss clear coat before decals and then dullcoat over everything.

Hey Hakan!  Good to get some feedback from you.  Yup, the gloss coat technique can help preventing the silvering issue. 

I should have done that, but I didn't.   Truth is, I got lazy.

I can usually get away with not having the silvering problems without applying something smooth prior, but it just didn't work this time.  Hahaha.

Luckily, I was able to fix it somewhat.  I basically soak it with decal softener and then squeeze "hard" every drop of solution liquid out without tearing the decal.  This is my lazy method.  But of course, the textbook way would be what you have written above. ?

    

5 hours ago, Rockford said:

I have to laugh when you say "I'll do a better job next time", look at the thing, it's brilliant! I couldn't hope to do something of that quality! 

Hahaha, thanks for your encouragement!  You have to admit that this WIP could have been much shorter if I stop making mistakes!

I am hoping you are progressing well with W900!  But of course, you got many things going at the same time, so the context switching and multi tasking is required and that, I cannot do well! 

[Straightliner59]

7 hours ago, cifenet said:

You have to admit that this WIP could have been much shorter if I stop making mistakes!

And now you've explained, perfectly, why my dragster thread is 19 pages long!? I've long felt that what sets some modelers apart from others, is the fact that they/we are willing to do it again. I use to take that too far. I never completed anything. The last few years, I have learned to accept that my work isn't going to be perfect. It's helped my completion rate.

[cifenet]

On 6/28/2023 at 1:49 AM, Straightliner59 said:

And now you've explained, perfectly, why my dragster thread is 19 pages long!? I've long felt that what sets some modelers apart from others, is the fact that they/we are willing to do it again. I use to take that too far. I never completed anything. The last few years, I have learned to accept that my work isn't going to be perfect. It's helped my completion rate.

Hahaha, but that dragster is turning into a monster for sure!  

At the end, this hobby really boils down to getting self-enjoyment out of the activity, pursuing inner satisfaction, and most importantly, spending time on something you take pleasure.     

[cifenet]

More random update today.

 

Two smokestacks are mounted.  The visor is mounted good also.  Wipers done.  I wanted the visor to be shiny as possible and had to re-paint three times.  I think it really paid off here, I really like the shine.   

All of the torpedo lights and air horns are also mounted.  The air horn fronts have odd looking half moon indentations.  This is how Revell produced them and this is how I built them.  I made zero effort fixing these and I may have to regret forever.

 

I also began working on the sleeper again.  I didn't like the roof line gap, but this time, I have been putting efforts to repair it. 

The transition from the roof piece to the wall should be smoother now.  Once I repaint this, I will spend some time applying clear. 

As with all the truck kits, I found out I cannot polish body panels too well due to exposed rivets. 

 

Turn signals were painted.

 

This controls the air deflector on the roof for improving aerodynamics.  Again, my urge wanted to scratch build the entire piece, but I chose a civilized approach and only replaced the mounting shaft for a small improvement.

 

Constructed two antennas using small aluminum tubes.

 

Detailing intake pipes with reflective tapes.  This looked too simple, I decided to add more "volume" to the pipes using various items.

 

Using an aluminum can, I began making hose clamps.  This is one way to add "volume".

 

I often use heat shrink tubes to also "decorate" the intake pipes.

 

Same with the lower part of exhaust piping.  This is made out multiple parts and I didn't putty all of the seams because I knew I can get away without sanding and puttying.

 

This is one of the techniques I like to use when building race car kits.  In truth, this is another lazy method I use.  The end result is quite convincing and it improves the look of piping work.

 

Using a normal hair dryer, I apply heat to shrink to the point the hoses (shrink tubes) are reduced to the size I desire.  I try not to apply heat directly to the plastic pipes, hence a brass pipe was used during the shrinking process.  Then I simply slide them to the actual pipe and add hose clamp details using thin wires.

 

Looks like most of the components are completed on this truck except the headache rack...

 

And I don't want to use Revell's headache rack, looks like I will need to build something more compelling.

Thanks for following!

[Straightliner59]

At the end, this hobby really boils down to getting self-enjoyment out of the activity, pursuing inner satisfaction, and most importantly, spending time on something you take pleasure.     

 

I could not have said it better! I really love some of the techniques you are using. The wire hose clamps are excellent! I might suggest a roll of aluminum duct tape. That's what I use for hose clamps. Yours look great, but I have found the duct tape to be easier to work with. Just a thought. I really am enjoying watching this come together! Great work!

[Bronzekeg]

nice work.

[J.B. Customs]

On 5/22/2023 at 8:32 PM, cifenet said:

Hi guys,

I just started my third attempt at building a big rig. 

I always wanted to build Peterbilt 359 and now it is the time.  As same as before, my standard disclaimer for this build is that, it won't be accurate and proper. 

But stating above, I know that these trucks are highly customizable and lasts forever, hence any modification/alternation I implement to this build cannot be totally incorrect!  

One thing for sure, it will be super fun (with some stress) building it!

I actually wanted to build TWO Peterbilt 359s, so I purchase of of each, one from Revell and the other from AMT.

 

Interesting to see the difference in size of the cab and also placement of rivets between these two companies.

 

After some consideration, I decided to build Revell kit first.

 

Immediately, I found potential issues with the kit.   The fuel tanks have details integrated.  I am not sure if I should sand them off or use them as they are. 

 

Some chrome parts have dust embedded and I just cannot accept them.  I will remove all of the chrome plating for this build.

 

The edge warped and curled outwards.  I will repair this as I build.

 

I suppose this is one way to reduce the parts count?

 

Some cab/body clean up is necessary.  The tree sprues connecting the hood and cab are wide and thick.  Need to be extra careful cutting them out. Once the cab and hood parts are cleaned up, I ensured that fitting reveals no issue.

 

The worst part of the kit is the choice of tires.  What is this indentation at the end? 

 

 

These stock wheels/tires can be better...

 

It is important to test fit everything first and obvious gaps on the hood bothered me, so I fixed.

 

Began the assembly process starting with chrome parts since this takes some time to de-chrome.  I would then work on wheels next.

 

I took some time cleaning and assembling basic parts also.

 

Since the engine blocks are split in half, putty work is required.  I found this exercise is boring, but necessary.

 

 

Sometimes I can avoid the need of filler/putty by using the glue to fill the gap.  Excessive glue is removed by scribing off with a hobby knife.  

 

This step is critical, the frame needs to be absolutely parallel and symmetrical.  If this isn't perfect, everything will get harder later in terms of how well truck sits on the ground.

 

There were several things I thought which will make the truck look better by adding details.  Once of them is the air brake chambers.  I will be detailing them out as I make progress.

 

Now addressing wheels!  The more I look at the wheels/tires, the more I do not like them...

 

After painting them, I still do not like them.  As mentioned before, the fronts actually look quite okay.

 

Luckily, this is the year 2023, we can make our own parts.  I started the process of building 3D parts for wheels/tires.

 

I had to adjust the size and experiment with 3d printer settings to make them proportionally acceptable to the truck. 

I think these will be so much better than the stock wheels.

 

Quickly painted to see how they look.  Some sanding is needed, but things are looking better already!

Thanks for watching!

 

What do you use to strip the chrome from the plated parts 

[cifenet]

21 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:

At the end, this hobby really boils down to getting self-enjoyment out of the activity, pursuing inner satisfaction, and most importantly, spending time on something you take pleasure.     

 

I could not have said it better! I really love some of the techniques you are using. The wire hose clamps are excellent! I might suggest a roll of aluminum duct tape. That's what I use for hose clamps. Yours look great, but I have found the duct tape to be easier to work with. Just a thought. I really am enjoying watching this come together! Great work!

Thank you, Daniel!  Next time I visit my local hardware store, I will look for an aluminum duct tape!  I can definitely see the tape being useful for the scale model building!

15 hours ago, Bronzekeg said:

nice work.

Thanks Ken, appreciated!!

 

15 hours ago, J.B. Customs said:

What do you use to strip the chrome from the plated parts 

Hi Jeff,

I have been using CSC (Castrol Super Clean) for years to strip chrome parts without much trouble.

Interestingly now it is called "Super Clean" as shown below.  I hope the formula is still the same.

 

 

 

[Force]

6 minutes ago, cifenet said:

Hi Jeff,

I have been using CSC (Castrol Super Clean) for years to strip chrome parts without much trouble.

Interestingly now it is called "Super Clean" as shown below.  I hope the formula is still the same.

 

 

 

I also find (Castrol) Super Clean works well, the plating disappears right before your eyes and the base clear coat in an hour or two.

[Straightliner59]

3 hours ago, cifenet said:

Thank you, Daniel!  Next time I visit my local hardware store, I will look for an aluminum duct tape!  I can definitely see the tape being useful for the scale model building!

Thanks Ken, appreciated!!

 

Hi Jeff,

I have been using CSC (Castrol Super Clean) for years to strip chrome parts without much trouble.

Interestingly now it is called "Super Clean" as shown below.  I hope the formula is still the same.

 

 

 

It is!

[DRIPTROIT 71]

Looks good!

[J.B. Customs]

I thought that purple bottle looked familiar I can’t believe I had the solution to stripping chrome all along a new tool in the arsenal Image That Thanks for the Tip 

[cifenet]

Hi guys,

This would be my last WIP update for this Peterbilt 359.

I thank you guys for sticking with me on this and also motivating me with supportive feedback so far.  

I hope you guys find this WIP as entertaining as I did putting them together.  I learned a lot while building this one and I truly enjoyed every step of constructing this massive truck (now I am wondering about 1/16th scale kit). 

The exposed fuel tanks, two big air filter tanks, massive smoke stacks, 10 wheels, a long frame, and etc...  Normally, you really don't get to build something like this.

 

Continuing with building my version of headache rack, I quickly put together a basic shell using various polystyrene sheets.  This is as basic as you can get, a rectangle shaped headache rack.  My goal is to build something quick and easy.

 

Added three doors.  I had some glue residue marks here and there, but I didn't care too much at this point.   

 

No fancy stuff, just created something that works for me.  Two beams will mount the headache rack to the frame.

 

I wanted to give an aluminum finish look and corrected some paint mistakes.

 

Added two safety lamps to make things somewhat interesting. 

 

I think this will work, I just want something that is better than what Revell has given me.

 

Lastly, I added some left over decals and side markers.

 

The wheel arch will receive an aluminum trim, so I prepared to paint the arch by masking here.

 

I decided to add additional plates to the truck.  I thought it was fun thing to do.  Again, it is rather involved process and yet no one notices.  

I randomly attached the second plate to the rear/front bumpers.

 

I also started applying clear coat and began the surface finishing activities.  After some trial and error sessions, I was able to color match/repair most of the paint damages occurred while working on the sleeper.

 

My next focus was the air dam piece and I began the work.  Some trucks paint the support frame as same as the truck's exterior color, but I decided to paint mine with basic silver.  The only thing I regret is that I didn't properly remove recess mold pin marks on the inner side of the air dam.  It really shows from behind!   Please, don't make that mistake like I did...  Another laziness got me and I don't want to fix it now

 

As soon as I started building this kit, I bought TWO aftermarket parts.  One was the interior detail set (dash P/E parts) from CzechTruck Model and another one was P/E parts for exhaust shields from Model Car Garage.

Unfortunately, the shields were generic P/E parts and they were longer than the exhausts for this Peterbilt 359 kit; I ended up cutting 1/4 inch or so in order to make them look proper. 

Before installing the shields, I pre-formed them by rolling around on a brass pipe so they stay round.

 

The task of attaching these heat shields was difficult. 

One, I didn't want to accidentally dent or bend the delicate P/E.  You will have hard time getting the crease out. 

Second, there is no mounting points for this, so I had to shape things as appropriate without any guide. 

And third, I had to mount them with one hand while the other hand was holding the cab carefully which has many small parts sticking out (torpedo lights, antennas, mirror attachments, the roof visor, etc)!

 

Two exhaust shields mounted!

 

To complete the look, I wrap up the bottom ends with reflective tape.

 

I also gave slight smoke stain on the pipe ends as this is a fairly new truck. 

 

I still need to properly mount the hood/cab/sleeper to the frame.  The headache rack is only attached with a masking tape at this time and luckily, I like the way it looks.  

Polishing/painting is still left on its sleeper and then only small pieces are left to attach including the front bumper.  

Thanks again for following!

Edited July 3, 2023 by cifenet

[Straightliner59]

It's getting close! Looking excellent, too! I am still in utter admiration of your metal finishes.

[RoninUtah]

What an incredible build!  I've enjoyed following along and I appreciate your sharing all the tips and techniques.  I've learned a lot.  Thanks!

[Rockford]

What a trip this has been! You're a great sharer! The finished product is going to be impressive. I particularly like your photography of the truck itself, makes it look very realistic. 

[Gary Chastain]

Wow, what a nicely detailed build.