'37 Ford Panel Delivery-Completed 4/2/2009

[Fletch]

What do you do while you're waiting for paint to dry? I don't know about you but I surf 1:1 sites and look for new projects. This morning I found a site that had a bunch of pics from Bonneville and El Mirage. There I came across this jewel. Some of you may ask what's so special about a rusted '37 Panel Delivery. Well the best thing about it is that it is a rusted '37 Panel Delivery.

One of the things about our hobby is the chance to stretch our skills. Building a '37 Panel Delivery is no big deal, making it look like this one well, that's a different story. I can do bright shiny paint standing on my head, but beat up and weathered, is outside of my comfort zone.

In the words of Mae West, "Hang on boys it's going to be a bumpy ride"

The inspiration:

The Plastic:

Hosted on Fotki

As you can see the Revell '37 Panel is the start, but the stance is wrong as it sits way to high on all 4 corners. Modifying the hood and stance will be the major things and they are far from major changes. So, we'll borrow some parts from the Revell '40 Ford Good Guys Kit to bring the nose down to earth and adjust the rear cross member to drop the rear.

Edited April 2, 2009 by Fletch

[Fletch]

After swapping out the stock front and rear suspension for the dropped front axle and spring ass'y from the Revell '40 Ford Coupe and the 2 Speed rear axle assembly from the Revell '40 Convertible.

There is a significant ride height adjustment just by swapping the suspension parts.

With the stock Artillery Wheels:

w/wheels and tires from the Revell Model Masters '40 Ford Convertible:

w/wheels and tires from the Revell '50 Ford pickup:

What do you think of the wheel/tire combination's? Let me know as I'm not 100% an any setup, it seems they all have their pluses and minuses.

[CB]

Well sir, before I'd even make a decide about wheels & tires, I'd get rid of that blue-ness!

Man, is that thing B.L.U.E.!

Squirt some gray, or maybe brown primer on it and then see how them combos look. I'm thinking it all

depends on how 'rod-dy' you wanna make it. If'n just a little bit, I'd stay with the artillery wheels, maybe painted shiny. Otherhows, I'd use the '50 Ford wheels & whites.

Love them '40 wideywhites --where's the wheel end and the whitewalls start? Them'd look so fine with some shiny custom paint, not on a beat up, weathered old truck.

[Fletch]

With the current pricing of the '50 Ford pickup at $25.25 it's getting a bit spendy to get a truly nice flat head. The next best option is getting the entire '50 flat head and Arduns from RMoM. I had considered using the flat head from the '40 coupe/convertible as I had already robbed parts from those kits and using a set of Thickstun heads just for something different from the run of the mill flat head.

Yeah, it's BLUE, thank goodness for PPG sealer/primer. I'm not sure what Revell was thinking when they decided to release it with the circus livery in blind you blue. I think the problem I'm having with the tire/wheel combination is they are unfinished. I'm going to shoot some paint later today and then set them up again once the trim rings and caps are in place and see how they look then. Chances are it will either be the stock artillery wheels or the set from the '50 Ford pickup as I think I'm going to save the WIDE WHITES for the Lincoln Zephyr project that I have been gathering parts for.

[Fletch]

The tires and wheels from the '50 Ford Pickup ended up winning. They have been painted Testors One Coat Lacquer Revving Red. Here they are with trim rings from the AMT '40 Ford and the hubcaps from the '50 Ford Pickup:

Here's how they look on the panel which is now primed so there's no need for the sunglasses anymore.

Hosted on Fotki

Over the course of the build and weathering they will get toned down to a slight roar. They are to represent newer add-ons to the panel so they won't be a weather and rusted as the rest.

Edited February 27, 2009 by Fletch

[CB]

Best keep a close eye on dat PD, Dave ........way it's lookin' now---WOW!---somebody might just come along and....uh, steal it-- well, you know, just take it for a little ride

Weird, but knowing your plan to do this all up weathered 'n stuff, it's almost like yer workin' bassackwards ........What a cool 'stage' in the build up of this. Part of me wants to see it go from here into the paint shop.

Don't know if'n you ever seen this, but ol' GrampsXrd (sumthin like dat--sorries Bill) did a '40 PD and scratched some letters on it . Took me awhile to find it coz I had to go to West Virginny for to find it, but checkem out Gramps's PD:

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.p...t=0&start=0

Most excellent choice on the wheels! Don't know how you does it with the trim rings, but boy does you does 'em up nice!

[Fletch]

Yeah, I know what you mean John. I look at this thing and think, "It sure would look nice if it were bright and shiny." The trim rings aren't that big a deal, they're actually pretty easy to work with as long as you have a nice sharp blade. If you don't, not so much fun then.

The lettering on the '40 SD is outstanding, that is someone with a lot steadier hand then mine. I'll come up with something on the computer and add to the sides before starting the sand through process. That way they can be weathered as well.

[Dennis Lacy]

Hey Fletch,

This is a great project and good luck in your adventures learning to weather! I haven't seen too many builds based on the panel truck, but I have one waiting for it's chance too. You've answered a question I've had for a while - how would the '40 suspension pieces work on the '37 frame? From what I can see they work great and provide a really good stance. I think I would have stuck with the stock wheels and tires, but that's just me. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out!

[E St. Kruiser50]

The tires and wheels from the '50 Ford Pickup ended up winning. They have been painted Testors One Coat Lacquer Revving Red. Here they are with trim rings from the AMT '40 Ford and the hubcaps from the '50 Ford Pickup:

Here's how they look on the panel which is now primed so there's no need for the sunglasses anymore.

Hosted on Fotki

Over the course of the build and weathering they will get toned down to a slight roar. They are to represent newer add-ons to the panel so they won't be a weather and rusted as the rest.

Hey Dave

The wheel/tire package is spot on. Love the look.

I don't do weathering so haven't a clue what to expect, but it'll be fun to watch and see what you decide on.

See ya at the show Dave - just another dave here - LOL

[Fletch]

Dennis & Dave, yeah the weathered thing is brand new to me. I have been able to pick the brain of a couple of the guys over on TRaK who do weathering. Yesterday the panel was in light gray primer as a barrier coat. Today it's in dark gray primer to start layering the colors for the finish as I want it. The doors are going to be mask off and sprayed Dover white as in the pic of the 1:1 the doors were obviously at some point were white or least a whitish primer. Then the whole thing will get shot with Tamiya olive drab. The Tamiya TS-5 is more a blackish green than what I would consider a true Olive Drab. Then the fun starts of sanding through the layers to achieve the look that I want. After all that then the rusting process begins.

From what I understand there is a product at Micheal's that is a 2 part process. You apply the rust base where you want it, then follow it up with the rusting agent. From what I've been told the rust agent is actually an oxidizer and the base has metal mixed in. Others have recommended using the Rust-it product. I have picked up the Tamiya "Weathering Master" pack B which has Snow, Soot and Rust for the colors. It kind of looks like an eye shadow make-up kit.

The thing to keep in mind is that rust can be a broad range of colors depending upon how new or old you're trying to represent.

Edited February 27, 2009 by Fletch

[Fletch]

One final update before the big finish. After this build I have a whole lot more respect for those who finish a build all weathered and rusted up.

Hosted on Fotki

So far I have used 4 different weathering systems if you will. Rustall, Floquil Railroad Colors Rust and Grimy Black, the Rust Antiquing kit from Micheal's and Tamiya Weathering Master Set B. The last that I plan to do to complete the weathering is to use a black wash to blend the different shades of rust. Rust up the bumpers, and some road grime to the wheels and tires.

The plan for under the hood is a flat head with Arduns and tri-carb setup from the '50 pickup. wire up the engine bay a little as the battery sits in a pretty prominent location.

Throw the interior tub together do a little weathering there and call it done.

[CB]

Nice to see yer 37 again Dave. Looks like you better hurry up and 'dirty' up them wheels, tires, and bumpers or you're gonna hafta put some shiny paint on it! That body style sure has some nice lines to it.

I scored me one of these kits myself at a flea market last week, still sealed for $10! The lady who sold it to me said she goes thru her brother's stash ever once in a while and if'n she sees he gots more than one kit, she takes it to the flea market!!! I'm prayin' for her! Aint real sure what exactly I'm gonna do with mine . For now I'm just enjoying the blue glow from the body parts---kinda like a night light

[Bernard Kron]

This thing's really comin' alive. Everything's just right. Thanx especially for the tip on the '40 Ford front axle. I have the '37 sedan that I plan to combine with the SD frame and the drop on the front w/ the '40 axle will be just right!

[E St. Kruiser50]

One final update before the big finish. After this build I have a whole lot more respect for those who finish a build all weathered and rusted up.

Hosted on Fotki

So far I have used 4 different weathering systems if you will. Rustall, Floquil Railroad Colors Rust and Grimy Black, the Rust Antiquing kit from Micheal's and Tamiya Weathering Master Set B. The last that I plan to do to complete the weathering is to use a black wash to blend the different shades of rust. Rust up the bumpers, and some road grime to the wheels and tires.

The plan for under the hood is a flat head with Arduns and tri-carb setup from the '50 pickup. wire up the engine bay a little as the battery sits in a pretty prominent location.

Throw the interior tub together do a little weathering there and call it done.

I got to see this at our last club meeting, and it is SOOOO CUUUUUL.

The pic's here don't do it justice.

Dave's a really good builder - now if you'd just finish somethin'

Edited March 23, 2009 by Treehugger Dave

[racer13]

Fletch!! You are da Mann! That is one Beautiful Beater! Great job Buddy.

[george 53]

Looks GREAT Fletch. Only thing is,to me, the chrome on the wheels is TOO shiney. Maybe a shot of clear dullcoat, just so's they match the weathering of the rest of the truck? She DOES look good for an ol beater!

[Dr. Cranky]

I love it. You've done a great job reproducing the right look. Congrats. Now all you have to do is photoshop it against that salt flats terrain.

Congrats!!!

[Hizoot]

Dave,

It's big, it's bad, it's beautiful, & it's beat up now how kewl is that..?

Hizoot

[Tom Kren]

Great job so far!!Now I want to pull mine out and weather it!

[Fletch]

Had one of those Ah, S**T moments with the build today. I had planned to use the Flat Head from the '50 Ford Pickup. Had the engine totally assembled, dropped it into the engine bay and guess what? It doesn't fit, to use the '50s engine with the Ardun heads would require major surgery of both front fenders. So, it was a quick retreat to Plan B. Seeing how the '40 Ford Good Guys Coupe gave up so much of it's suspension for the chassis it also gets to give up it's flat head and speed parts to rescue the build as well.

All in all, this has been a fun project, the build itself was no real big deal the finish was where the challenge came about. As someone who judges contests I now have better appreciation for those entries that aren't polished out and shiny.

I'm hoping to have this finished by the weekend so stay tuned.

George you are correct about the caps and trim rings they along with the rest of the chrome will be getting a black wash to tone them down.

Thank you all for your kind words and comments. And DAVE it will be finished in time for the NNL, what are friends for but to give you cr*p.

Edited March 24, 2009 by Fletch

[noname]

Yes this thing looks really good. Your first time? I'd like to see your second try.

[Fletch]

Yes this thing looks really good. Your first time? I'd like to see your second try.

Not sure of when the second try will be, but I do know that it's a lot more fun then spending hours color sanding paint to get it mirror smooth. I have a "Beverly Hillbilly's" Buick body that looks like the perfect candidate for a severe weathering. There are however a few others on the bench that need to be completed before that even gets started.

[racer13]

Hey Fletch Ol'Buddy. When You put an Ardun Conversion in a 34 You need to make extra room, like My neighbor and co-worker Jimmy did!

Edited March 24, 2009 by racer13

[Fletch]

Hey Fletch Ol'Buddy. When You put an Ardun Conversion in a 34 You need to make extra room, like My neighbor and co-worker Jimmy did!

Same thing would have applied here Dave. Unfortunately, I didn't pre-fit the engine prior to yesterday, and there was no way I was going to go back and trim out the sides of the engine compartment at this point in the game.

So, now I have to find a home for the '50 Flathead with Arduns. Tough problem to have. May be time to scratch an injector manifold and load it into a rail frame. Good thing AMT has the double dragster kit listed for reissue.

I think I have photos of Jimmy's car at the End of the World Cruise from 7-8 years ago. If it wasn't his car it was a good copy of it.

[racer13]

Yep!! That would be Jimmy's ride at Longbeach. He drive the wheels off that old girl! pleasanton, jellystone nat. park, everywhere!