Tamiya 1:24 Mazda

[Funkychiken]

Started a new kit, whilst I'm working on  some tedious body work, I thought I'd start another kit, the chassis will get done quickly as its quite basic & I'm not going for lots of detail, likely it'll be OOB.

Box cover and sprue shots

[Funkychiken]

Chassis is basic with sump built in. but multiple masking events and some hand painting leaves it looking at least slightly interesting

Dash is coated in Tamiya dar grey, then masked for a black centre stack

interior is almost finished, more masking & black bits to do

[kelson]

A very nice kit,i wish Tamiya would've included the hardtop in the Miata version.

[beeRS]

A nice little kit from Tamiya with just enough detail. 
You’ve made a good start. Interested to see what colour you go with for the body. 

[dino246gt]

I have this kit in the waaaay-off to-do pile, interested in seeing how it builds up by you.

So far it looks very good!

[OldNYJim]

23 hours ago, kelson said:

A very nice kit,i wish Tamiya would've included the hardtop in the Miata version.

This one includes a hardtop AND is a Miata...what is the 'Miata version'? 

[jaymcminn]

5 hours ago, CabDriver said:

This one includes a hardtop AND is a Miata...what is the 'Miata version'? 

The Miata went by many names... this kit represents a JDM Eunos Roadster. In Japan the first generation Miata wasn't even branded as a Mazda. Eunos was a sub-brand that Mazda used briefly in Japan for "specialty" cars like the Miata and the Cosmo. They were going to build a sports/luxury brand around the Eunos name, much like Toyota did with Lexus, but the bursting of the Japanese economy bubble in the early 90s put a stop to those plans.  "Eunos" and "Roadster" badges are popular mods for Miata owners, especially on first-generation cars.

Actually, the Miata is really only the Miata in the US. The rest of the world got the Mazda MX-5. 

Tamiya released this model as a US-spec Miata as well as the Eunos. The Miata kit includes a LHD dash as well as correct decals for the US cars. The Miata kit includes (I believe) a convertible up-top but no hardtop.

Very clean work on this build so far, looking forward to seeing how it turns out!

Edited August 28, 2023 by jaymcminn

[Funkychiken]

Thanks for the interest, it's going to be blue Airbrushed Tamiya X-7 (if I remember correctly). 

The Chassis is now done! mostly hand painted, and "oiled" with mig panel line.

[Funkychiken]

On 8/28/2023 at 6:54 PM, CabDriver said:

This one includes a hardtop AND is a Miata...what is the 'Miata version'? 

I thinnk the top is more like the carbio closed than an actual hard top. I thought that Fujimi did do a hard top version, but I may be wrong.

[OldNYJim]

On 8/28/2023 at 5:59 PM, jaymcminn said:

Tamiya released this model as a US-spec Miata as well as the Eunos. The Miata kit includes a LHD dash as well as correct decals for the US cars. The Miata kit includes (I believe) a convertible up-top but no hardtop.

Interesting!  I checked my stash of these and not a ‘Miata’ among them…I had no idea there was an ACTUAL Miata kit!  Thanks for the info - I need to find one now!

[peteski]

I don't think that vintage of Miata/Eunos was made as a (non-removable) hard top. It was roadster-only sports car. It did have removable hard top which could be installed.

Yes, this vehicle is known as Mazda MX-5 Miata in the States.  My GF owned one before I met her. It was the "M-Edition" and she said it was lots of fun to drive. I wish I met her earlier.  

Like Jason mentioned, Tamiya released both versions as separate kits.  Both have the hard top option (molded in clear plastic, on the same tree as rest of the clear parts.  I have both kits.

 

[Rattlecan Dan]

Looking good. Nice attention to detail.

[Funkychiken]

I thought I'd try to paint this with Tamiya Acrylic base coat with Zero 2K clear.

the base coat was a bit of a struggle, this paint does attract dust mush more that a zero paint base coat, so it took a few coats extra - after sanding out the dust and re-coating. the thing with this base coat is that it changes colour slightly after sanding - goes a bit darker. so it took a while. I shall not be using tamiya acrylic again for a base coat.

Prior to this, I coated my Bugatti and it came out beautiful.

But this was a nightmare.

used the same method, 2 or 3 tack coats with 5 mins in-between

then 2 heavy coats.

it looked great on application, but after drying its probably the worse finish iIve had for years using 2k.

so i'll get to sanding next.

[peteski]

Is it possible that the "dust" was actually some small debris in the paint?

[Funkychiken]

12 hours ago, peteski said:

Is it possible that the "dust" was actually some small debris in the paint?

It could be, I don't filter the paint for ABing it was more like lumps than dust. You are probably  right

[slusher]

Great shade of blue!  Your chassis looks really nice also!

[Funkychiken]

Thank you Mr Slusher, I'm sure when I get around to it, assuming I don't burn through the clear, it will polish up nicley!

[Funkychiken]

Started sanding this body shell

significant amount of sanding with Tamiya 1000 grit

[Funkychiken]

then 1500 grit, and 2000 shown here:

[Funkychiken]

then Micromesh 3200, then 3600 shown here

[Funkychiken]

micromesh 4000 here, you can start to see some shine come through.

I think I'll complete a 6000 grit run before going into the polish - I might do this with Tamiya polish, I've being using Nuvous so far...

[Funkychiken]

I meticulously went through the Tamiya sanding grits, then the same with micromesh & finally polish compounds. At each stage, I washed the body shell & changed the water. It all looked fine until polishing. The paint looks mottled, dull, hazy. So I repolish. no difference. I try wax, doesn't help.

[Funkychiken]

About to chuck it, then I decide to carefully sand it down & re-spray. with Zero grey primer. a few small cracks appear. So I sand down & spray again with white primer. looks of deep cracks appear!

 

So i've bought some Dot 3 & i'm going to soak it for a while and see if it removes the Zero 2K clear thats underneath.

 

I'm guessing its the Tamiya Acrylic thats causing the cracking...

[Funkychiken]

Whilst it soaks in Dot3 Brake fluid, I've finished the interior

Firstly I masked the edges - then applied in 4 different orientations the Clear Matt enamel, and sprinkled the flocking - in this case a mixture of grey & black - for dark grey flocking

 

[Funkychiken]

And this is the finished article - added seat belts and a decal for the steering wheel