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Horrorshow

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17 minutes ago, Horrorshow said:

Scratch built a narrower roll cage…other assemblies went together quite well IMG_7336.thumb.jpeg.5129be62bfadc14b468081c871c99934.jpegIMG_7337.thumb.jpeg.d92ff1470e167b973e30dfc563689a69.jpeg

For your next cage, go to Harbor Freights website and get this diamond file set,  Needle File Set, 10 Piece (harborfreight.com)   The diamond files are 0nly 2 bucks more than the steel and it cuts the plastic faster. One of the files is flat on one side and curved on the other side. Use the curved side and cut your tubes long and make notched in there like I do to my roll cages in my real race cars. You can't but a round tube to a round tube. The fish mouth notch mounts to the round tube. And allows for a tight fit for welding, and in your case less glue and it makes it a tight fit when finished. It's a little extra work, but it makes the cage look like the real thing if you do it that way and like I said it makes it stronger and tighter fitting too. 

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I find the later PPP cages to be MUCH cleaner than the older ones. The old ones had lines in the plastic, a chore to clean up. I narrow them if I have to.

Files, a good subject. Most of my files are Nicholsons from my machine shop days. I have a nice tapered round one I use to fish-mouth the bars. I use almost exclusively 3/32" Evergreen tubing, stock #223. I'll have to check the HF ones mentioned.

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42 minutes ago, bobss396 said:

Files, a good subject. Most of my files are Nicholsons from my machine shop days. I have a nice tapered round one I use to fish-mouth the bars. I use almost exclusively 3/32" Evergreen tubing, stock #223. I'll have to check the HF ones mentioned.

I use the same tubing for mine too. I have used old NASCAR cages in some cases too. I know I have a Chevelle I built, and I got lazy and did not want to build all the door bars, so I used NASCAR side cage pieces and built the rest myself. Worked out good in that case. Just depends on the body and interior design of the car as to what you can do with it cage wise. That file set has a round file that has some taper on the front end of it, but not the full length. I also find that file good for opening up and truing a tube after you cut it and it's no so round on the end anymore. They have lots of uses and if you get glue in it, just toss it and buy another set at just 6 bucks a set. 

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23 hours ago, dwc43 said:

I use the same tubing for mine too. I have used old NASCAR cages in some cases too. I know I have a Chevelle I built, and I got lazy and did not want to build all the door bars, so I used NASCAR side cage pieces and built the rest myself. Worked out good in that case. Just depends on the body and interior design of the car as to what you can do with it cage wise. That file set has a round file that has some taper on the front end of it, but not the full length. I also find that file good for opening up and truing a tube after you cut it and it's no so round on the end anymore. They have lots of uses and if you get glue in it, just toss it and buy another set at just 6 bucks a set. 

I have a box of leftover cage parts. I pick up any I see at model shows too. I made a jig for the modified cages, I need to get a CAD program going to I can cut pieces that will fit together.

I got the files and so far I like them. I would like some really small files, fairly hard to come across so far. 

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13 hours ago, Horrorshow said:

Had to drill into the dashboard to get the roll cage to fit properly.

IMG_7341.thumb.jpeg.786442b480e8202b3769894d0ff7fafb.jpeg

I have drilled holes in dashboards before and gave it the illusion that the tubing passed through it. I just let a scant amount of tubing go into the dash, sort of fiddly to fit together.

I never bothered to add the legs down to the floor, but some dummy pieces could be made up. I did this on a '64 Fairlane late model I'm slowly working on.

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