thatz4u Posted December 11, 2023 Posted December 11, 2023 what is the best & easiest way to lower this car?? anyone ever built a Kustom version??? thanks
Mark Posted December 11, 2023 Posted December 11, 2023 In front, to lower it you'll need to move the wheel location higher up on the spindle. Other methods like trimming the springs will move the steering linkage closer to the frame and/or oil pan, same as when that is done in 1:1 scale. At the rear, lowering blocks installed between the leaf springs and axle will do the job in all but the most extreme cases. The springs stay the same relative to the chassis, so the shock absorbers don't need to be changed. If you're going radically low, then the stock suspension setup probably won't cut it. You'll then have to look at other, more extreme lowering jobs and see what changes were made to those to get the desired results.
Ace-Garageguy Posted December 11, 2023 Posted December 11, 2023 (edited) Unfortunately, the Drastic Plastics Fotki post of the instructions omits the relevant pages, or I'd walk you through it. That said, Mark is spot-on in saying you do it just like you'd do a real one. Lowering blocks in the rear will get you a lot of drop, and if the axle contacts the frame, it's perfectly acceptable to "C-notch" it for clearance...just like real. EDIT: The video below shows the relevant instruction page at about 2:25. To lower the front, you cut the stub axles loose from the spindles, parts 91 and 92, and reposition them UP towards the top of the car as much as you want to go down. NOTE: For just a little lowering, you MIGHT be able to simply turn the spindles upside-down, possibly requiring swapping them side-to-side...I can't tell from the video and all my kits on this chassis are already in Az. Measuring carefully in advance, with a mockup, and pinning the stub axles are strongly recommended. If you want to go lower still, come back here for more info. Edited December 11, 2023 by Ace-Garageguy
MeatMan Posted December 13, 2023 Posted December 13, 2023 (edited) I went a bit more radical on mine because I wanted it really low. I altered some McPherson struts to fit the height I needed. I used the stock A-arms so it looks stock from the bottom and the only way you can tell is where the came through the fender well. I did pics of the process but can't find them. I think I was on Photobucket at the time so they're long gone. Edited December 13, 2023 by MeatMan 2
SSNJim Posted December 14, 2023 Posted December 14, 2023 6 hours ago, MeatMan said: Beautiful job on the car, but the wheels fascinate me.
MeatMan Posted December 14, 2023 Posted December 14, 2023 12 hours ago, SSNJim said: Beautiful job on the car, but the wheels fascinate me. Thanks Jim. Some of the folks that like a more traditional approach beat me up about them at the time, but that's how it goes with customs. Some will like them, some will hate them.
bill-e-boy Posted December 15, 2023 Posted December 15, 2023 The Moebius 300B is like the real deal. By that I mean the front end used dropped spindles and the rear end used lowering blocks. The 300B in the real world is notably lower than the original base car (Windsor I think) I did a Moebius 300B a couple years ago and dropped the front by cutting off the spindle and raising the up as far as I could. I pinned the spindles for strength The rear I flatted the spring curve a bit and used lowering blocks. I ended up with a fairly low car 1
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