Jon Cole Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 I bought Plasti-kote White Primer. I sprayed three coats. Is it normal for the paint to feel sticky a day later? -Jon-
george 53 Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 Jon, if it hasn't "gassed out" it is. What was the humidity when you painted it? If you got a Dehydrator,stick it in there an it'll dry in a coupla hours. If not, maybe you could put it under a lamp,the heat may help it to dry faster. Just a suggestion, but if you have a display case for 24th/25th models, put it under the lid, an set it in a sunny window,or outside.But check it every once inna while, cas you don't want it to melt or warp!.
Dr. Cranky Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 Plastikote is my first choice in primers . . . all their colors, but I prefer grey. I use that exclusively these days. I usually let the paint gas out over night, but if it is humid it will take a little longer. I'd say give it a little more time and then see, but it should not be sticky after 48 hours. I'm also assuming you prepped the body correctly by washing it with warm soapy water and a toothbrush?
RyanSilva Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 I, like Virgil use Plasti-kote exclusively. The only stickynss I get is with the red oxide, but It is also still cold in the Northeast where I live, so Its bound to a little tacky. However A day later it is fine, Let it sit on a oil filled space heater for a while (temp on low) I use those heaters for drying bodies,a nd they work wonderful.
Brendan Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 One question: Did you shake the can thoroughly? I've run into problems in the past where I didn't shake my can enough and it remained sticky for several days.
Jon Cole Posted March 21, 2009 Author Posted March 21, 2009 One question: Did you shake the can thoroughly? I've run into problems in the past where I didn't shake my can enough and it remained sticky for several days. Actually, I did heat the can for about 4 to 5 minutes in warm to hot water, and I also shook the can. If I had to guess based on my own opinion as well as what I read here, I suspect the paint didn't shake up enough. But it sounds like in another day it should be fine. So, does this mean it's an enamel-based primer? Because the reason I bought white primer is I will be painting Tamiya Racing White. I hope they're compatible! On a related note, do any of you fellow "Olde Pharts" remember going with your dad to the hardware store to buy a gallon of paint, way back when? Remember how they always clamped the can in a shaker? I could use one now. I've been dealing with back aches, and shaking paint isn't high on my fun list these days.
FujimiLover Posted March 21, 2009 Posted March 21, 2009 Testor's has a descent white primer........what's wrong with that? What's the advantage to Plasti-Kote?
Foxer Posted March 21, 2009 Posted March 21, 2009 On a related note, do any of you fellow "Olde Pharts" remember going with your dad to the hardware store to buy a gallon of paint, way back when? Remember how they always clamped the can in a shaker? I could use one now. I've been dealing with back aches, and shaking paint isn't high on my fun list these days. they still shake paint the same way .. and 1/25th size shaker would be cool
Tom Kren Posted March 21, 2009 Posted March 21, 2009 Give it a day or two should be fine also where is everyone getting it They stopped selling it here and I NEED a certin color in the touch up cans for a project!
BigGary Posted March 21, 2009 Posted March 21, 2009 (edited) I haven't tried Plati-cote as yet, but I have used Krylon H2O Acrylic primer. It covers good, dries fast, and sands easy. I'm doing a white roof on a car and I'll be using it for primer. On other colors, it will lighten some colors sprayed over it. I've used it under yellow, bronze, and burnt orange. All came out lighter than expected. Gary Update as of 3/22/09 Be sure you get the white primer. I got the white acrylic paint last time because I had a "senior moment" and was careless. The white paint doesn't spray from the can as well as the primer. It ran all over the place. Fortunately a swim in the purple pool took care of it. In about 2 hours it loosend the acrylic and took of some of the enamel primer, but all is not lost, just extra sanding and priming. Gary Edited March 22, 2009 by BigGary
PatRedmond Posted March 22, 2009 Posted March 22, 2009 Krylon H2O Acrylic primer Going to look out for that and give it a try.
FujimiLover Posted March 22, 2009 Posted March 22, 2009 (edited) I've never used Plasti-kote or any other brand/type of paint for model building. However, for my green MR2, I'll need a nice deep dark forest-like green color for it. Will Plasti-Kote have something like that? I dont' want to use Testor's British Racing Green as this is a Japanese car. Also, what clear coat should I use over Plasti-kote? Do they have their own gloss coat? I think I found my answer, Hunter Green. http://www.plastikote.com/plastikote/indus...20Bond%20Enamel Edited March 22, 2009 by FujimiLover
BigGary Posted March 22, 2009 Posted March 22, 2009 (edited) The most recent an of Krylon H2O sprayed differently than the first one. The first can gave nice even spray that dried quickly. This can sprayed heavy and hosed down the car so much it was running off onto the garage floor. I think the next coat will go through the airbrush. I'm puzzled. Found out what the problem was. Dum-dum Gary used acrylic paint instead of arylic primer. Fortunately the purple pool solved the problem. See my post up above. Gary Edited March 22, 2009 by BigGary
Lownslow Posted March 22, 2009 Posted March 22, 2009 Testor's has a descent white primer........what's wrong with that? What's the advantage to Plasti-Kote? price,bang for the buck, and it can be polished
MrObsessive Posted March 22, 2009 Posted March 22, 2009 Testor's has a descent white primer........what's wrong with that? What's the advantage to Plasti-Kote? If you like waiting forever for paint to dry then it's all good! Frankly, I don't have that kind of patience, (I like using a dehydrator) and nothing beats Plastikote for sandability, and drying reasonably fast. I take it you were talking about the enamel paints in Testor's primer white----------If not disregard the above comment. Testor's lacquers aren't too bad, but for the price you're better off with the Plastikote.
FujimiLover Posted March 22, 2009 Posted March 22, 2009 as a rattle-can user, I dont' use anything but enamels. However, if/when I get my airbrush, I'll probably experiment more after I've had some experience with the airbrush. I'd really like to try some finger nail polish. No, not on me, on the model.
FujimiLover Posted March 22, 2009 Posted March 22, 2009 (edited) One question: Did you shake the can thoroughly? I've run into problems in the past where I didn't shake my can enough and it remained sticky for several days. It's always fun to shake your "can" with Itunes pumping out your favorite music. Edited March 22, 2009 by FujimiLover
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