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1973 Porsche 917/10 Can Am


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Starter resin & brass kit in 1/43rd scale.   Most Starter kits are curbside but this is one of the few "full detail" kits they offered. 

As you can see there is still a good amount of clean-up required after removing the thin flash in the main openings.

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This structure has to be cut out too.

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The "full detail" section is basically one part and the removable engine cover.

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Kind of interesting how they cast it with the steel axle in place.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The engine cover does not fit well; I guess they figured most people would display it off the car (on the included stand).  The panel lines on both sides look about like this, but at different angles… and the sides are much narrower than the tub.  The leading edge had to be addressed too as it didn't line up or allow the opening for the fan to be centered over the fan.  (Shifting the chassis is an option, but I figured getting the body set first was the better option.)

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I used sheet styrene to fill in the needed material and modify the panel lines.  Even though I raised the engine cover when I widened it so that the leading edge matched the body, I still had to add material to the top of it outboard of the fairings so the body would flow smoothly. 

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First coat of white primer to see how it looks.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The screw holes in the front section of the body that attach it to the chassis & engine were reworked so the chassis could be moved rearward to compensate for the material I added to the leading edge of the engine cover and make the fan line up with the opening.

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I started painting the engine and surrounding area, but there are still more parts to fit and they don't fit positively or symmetrically.

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I built that kit a few years ago.  It was a bit misaligned for sure.  I am sure you will do a great job at this, and am watching the build.  I think I will take a look at my model and see how bad it really is  :)  

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I remember the car, but I don't remember knowing it was a 917. 

This is so far from what I would build... it's great. The level of detail painting I think you're going to show us is way beyond what I would contemplate. I even cheat and use less contrasty colors when hand painting to conceal any mistakes. True story. Yes, I'm ashamed.

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5 hours ago, Scale-Master said:

I used BMF instead of the kit supplied Mylar for the sides.  It didn't feel like it would conform as well as foil.

I started with the roundel & number decals.  They went on fine. 

It's coming along really nice.

At what point did you cut the decal, as in right after applying, fully dry, etc., and what tool did you use?

This has been defying me even after 10 decal cuts on the same model, experimenting as I went along. I saw a video by Plasmo where he cut a decal into thee pieces, and then removed the center piece, which revealed that the decal was still entirely wet and pliable. When I try cutting a wet decal, the whole thing wants to slide into the gap. Grr.

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I waited until the decal was mostly dry; about 30-40 minutes, but still a little pliable where it spanned the slight gap. 

I used a sharp X-Acto knife to slice them and then rolled the four tiny flaps on to their respective edges.

I cut wet decals often and it is not too difficult to get good results with a sharp blade.  You only have to cut the decal, not what's under it.

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The stripes also went on well which was a little surprising as one of the stripes had a slight fold in it and I fully expected to crack at that point.  They also conformed quite well to the contours including the louvers front and rear.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Thanks guys.  It's getting close to being finished.  Too many projects at once (11 on the bench and two in CAD) put this one on the back burner for a couple weeks.

The rear wheels stuck out a bit more than I would have liked.  (To be fair, in some photos it appears they did stick out somewhat.)  But I milled 0.025 inches out of the backsides of the wheels so they tucked in a little.

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The material the kit provides for the roll bar braces is about twice as thick as it should be.  I used aluminum rod to replace them.  The engine cover still fits without interfering with them.

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Ah yes, another one of Mark's mini masterpieces in the making.  I love Can-Am cars, and the 917-10 is one of my favorites.  I have an Aurora HO car in this same RC Cola livery, and I just saw some model show footage featuring a 3D-printed 917-10 (1/25?) in L&M livery.  (Note to self: start saving now).  

I'll never be able to work in this scale but I always find it worthwhile to take a look when Mark's got another build going.  It's enthralling to see the accuracy and detail that goes into something that started out so small and basic.   

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I take my hat off to those modellers like Mark who can work wonders on those tiny 1/43rd scale kits.

1/43rd scale I know is the accepted norm for what is a very popular scale, but it does seem a bit of an oddball scale. I read that it is something to do with it originally being compatible with O Gauge model railways. It always seems a bit weird as a scale as it is not equally divisible by anything like for example 1/48th that doubled in size makes  1/24th scale and up again to 1/12th. One another tack, 1/32nd doubles to 1/16th and again to 1/8th. Purely logical to me.

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