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Posted

It's frustrating when things go badly, like that! I've had more than one project end up on "the shelf of doom" (RIP, Snake), because of stuff like that. The black looks fantastic, anyway!

Posted
20 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:

It's frustrating when things go badly, like that! I've had more than one project end up on "the shelf of doom" (RIP, Snake), because of stuff like that. The black looks fantastic, anyway!

Thanks, Daniel.  

  • 5 months later...
Posted

Back on this one.  I have to spend a fair amount of time in my son’s room.  He is bedridden with serious TBI, hemiplegic, tube fed, doesn’t talk, etc.  I have taken care of him for 20 years (since he was 17).  Any way, this is my portable work shop that I place on my rolling shelf so I can work in his room.  It is amazing how many tools I can cram on this apparatus.  Took the shifter from the 62 Pontiac kit I just finished, drilled a hole with my drill bit set, blackened the shifter boot with the brush type end on my new acrylic marker (how did I survive without those?).  Put one coat of Tamiya black wash on the grill.  Will let that dry, then give it another coat.

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  • Like 2
Posted

After a 6 month hiatus from this build, spent some time reorienting myself with what needs to be done.  Fender well headers should be here soon.  Got the 7” slicks out that I cast a while back.  They will require some cleanup and painting.

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  • Like 1
Posted

Due to my crummy casting job, considerable clean up required on one side of the tires.   I use this expandable rubber plug most of the time.  I noticed the Tamiya wash was extremely thin, so stirred it up with a piece of wood and gave it a turn on my paint shaker.  Much better.

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Posted

Made a tire holder out of a gundam marker and some masking tape, shot some primer to show how awful they look, then some Mr. Dissolved putty.  Painted the backing plates, traction bars, and bumper extension.

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  • Like 1
Posted

Sanded off the rear tires, then put some Tamiya putty on as there was some pretty deep gouges.  While that was drying, I put some ink over the Tamiya panel wash.  Looks better.

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Posted
3 hours ago, Old Buckaroo said:

You're making great progress on this one.

I love those headers - Thank you so much for showing the package. I need to check their products out !

Thanks.  Be advised, it took a while to get the headers (about a month, I think), as he doesn’t make them until he gets an order.

Posted

Shot the slicks (plus some extras) with TS82 Tamiya rubber black spray paint.  An interior pic.  Had to paint the other side of the backing plates, so decided to use these long wooden, tapered, cotton q-tips on the inside hub.  Worked pretty well.  Will try to remember that for next time.  Tried out the new Gorilla glue with the brush to glue the backing plates on.  I like it.

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  • Like 1
Posted

I liked the brush on super glue so well I may try to scrounge up an empty Tamiya super thin cement bottle (and brush) and put some super glue in it.  Might work better than applying it with a toothpick or needle type apparatus.

Posted

Noticed today one of the rear tires was angled slightly, so tried some Bsi un-cure to loosen the super glue bond.  Didn’t help much, but moved it some, and I will live with it.

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  • 1 month later...
Posted

Well, I’m back at the 56 after getting stalled on the Firebird stocker.  Reoriented myself on this build (it’s been a couple of months), then installed the firewall after some cleanup along the mounting edges.  I installed the interior then and the chassis mocked up to see what needs to be removed in order to install the fenderwell headers.  Looks like the inner fender area behind the upper A arms will need trimming.

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  • Like 2
Posted
15 hours ago, rv1963 said:

Nice work on your drag car, I really like the idea of a junior stock drag racer.

Thanks, Robert.  Working on these early drag cars brings back fond  memories to me.

Posted (edited)

After another interlude, got a few things done.  Trimmed the rear inner fender wells for header clearance, made some rear engine mounts to raise the rear of trans to align with the rear axle, then super glued those and engine in place.  The activator in my new little jar helped, but I still managed to get some on the glue brush, making a large blob on the brush.  Oh well, I’m going to transfer the super glue to my empty Tamiya glue bottle tomorrow (another experiment).   Then snaked the headers in and glued them (tedious work).  Finally, used one of my new acrylic “brushes” to touch up some under hood spots.

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Edited by R. Thorne
  • Like 1
Posted

Just being lighthearted here, but I'd hate to have to remove the battery everytime I had to remove the passenger side valve cover.

Seriously tho, great job on this Ron!!

Posted
On 3/12/2025 at 9:00 PM, TransAmMike said:

Just being lighthearted here, but I'd hate to have to remove the battery everytime I had to remove the passenger side valve cover.

Seriously tho, great job on this Ron!!

Thanks, Mike.  I’d say Revell missed it a little on the battery placement as the full size cars were not that close.  The driveshaft length was ok, so I trimmed one end off, reamed out the other end, and glued it on.  Then started on the Hasegawa chrome trim.  I cut it out on the package with a steel ruler, then install it, as this stuff is thicker and, consequently, harder to cut after installed.  Sometimes it requires a do over.  I like it better than bmf, however, because it is shinier, has less wrinkles, is fairly easy to handle after cutting a piece off, is stretchy without easily breaking, and leaves no glue residue (the main reason).  The rear quarter panel section goes from .060” to .110” and, so, has to be cut on a taper.

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  • Like 2
Posted

The trim l

21 hours ago, R. Thorne said:

Thanks, Mike.  I’d say Revell missed it a little on the battery placement as the full size cars were not that close.  The driveshaft length was ok, so I trimmed one end off, reamed out the other end, and glued it on.  Then started on the Hasegawa chrome trim.  I cut it out on the package with a steel ruler, then install it, as this stuff is thicker and, consequently, harder to cut after installed.  Sometimes it requires a do over.  I like it better than bmf, however, because it is shinier, has less wrinkles, is fairly easy to handle after cutting a piece off, is stretchy without easily breaking, and leaves no glue residue (the main reason).  The rear quarter panel section goes from .060” to .110” and, so, has to be cut on a taper.

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The trim looking good Ron.  Have never tried the Hasagawa "chrome".  From what you have described, I assume it's too thick to use the BMF method of trimming with hobby knife.

Posted

Your comments are always appreciated, Mike.  It can be trimmed with a hobby knife or scalpel like bmf, but I just find it much easier, quicker, and less nerve racking to cut it on the package and install.  Especially on shiny black paint, the Hasegawa stuff has a tendency to glare when being installed and then cut on the car.  I even thought about wearing sunglasses (lol).

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

After a couple weeks off, I am back at it.  Decided (for old times sake) , to adorn the back window with a common addition back in those days.  A similar one on my 53 Olds stocker around 1969 (wow!, what memories).  Anyway, put the rather delicate placement windows and windshields on with the precision tipped gs hydro and my high dollar toothpick/funtack device to hold them while installing.  Hard to get the cap/wire plug back on, but the precision is worth it, I guess.  Worked pretty good.  

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Posted (edited)

Oh yeah Ron, the "Car in tow" written with "shoe polish" on the back glass sure does bring back memories of the good old days 😂

Edited by TransAmMike
  • Like 1

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