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Posted
12 hours ago, Scott Eriksen said:

Outstanding job on that hood Brian!

Thanks, Scott - were a couple 'moments' early on with the inner brace when just about decided there wasn't going to be an inner brace!

  • Like 2
Posted
2 hours ago, Chariots of Fire said:

Such beautiful work!  It's going to be too bad to get it all dirty and salty its first day out!😆

Thanks, Charles - yes, they don't stay that clean for very long at all, but, everything has to have a 'day 1' look!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Rare event in North Vancouver here yesterday - 8 inches of snow, so spent the morning on the end of the snow shovel!

Did get a few hours in at the bench this afternoon, mulling over the hinges that I need to make.  The brace, hood and cab are out in the shed with another thin coat of putty setting up.  While thinking about the hinges, noticed the front grille surround on the kit doesn't have very good locators, come time for it to be glued on, so I decided to 'flange' the inside perimeter of front hood opening, like a real hood is.   Only difference is, I attached the flange to the inside of the grille surround to better position the surround when I need to glue it in place.

 

In preparation for work I need to do on the hinge, I removed all the chrome and drilled out the rivet holes around the outside of the surround - have some Top Studio rivets to use after grille is re-chromed.  The surround is taped to the outside of the hood at the moment.

IMG_2934.jpg.7aa55faffc91ac66d946a620907474dc.jpg

 

Rivet holes drilled out - the surround is a tiny bit too wide for the outside edge to edge of the hood, so will do some work on that too, before re-chroming

IMG_2936.jpg.5e389561fdf7b7bf8b7011ca8ced6a02.jpg

 

Angle iron flange added to three sides of surround - 

IMG_2940.jpg.29482f1d48e4ac440f49f942cb700d19.jpg

 

Now the surround is very easily located in place.  I will tape the surround to the inside of the hood and do the slight sanding fitment on the outside edges, bringing them in profile with the sides of the hood

IMG_2943.jpg.e73bc58463aaa98c1acbc8b1a42236ff.jpg

 

Quick session this afternoon, but more tomorrow, unless there is more snow!  Thanks for having a look!

Edited by BK9300
Typo
  • Like 3
Posted

The Master Class is in session. This is magnificent. Your attention to detail is incredible. And not only that, your execution is exquisite. Super fun to watch, Brian. 

Posted
12 hours ago, Bronzekeg said:

getting better all the time!

Thanks for the compliment, Ken - new ideas for things to add seem to keep coming!

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, Rockford said:

Absolute work of art! Bodywork is my nemesis, hate it. Fully respect what you've achieved here. 

I appreciate the comment, Steve and I agree about the body work - I'm thinking I've made good progress and then I discover all the putty pinholes in the top of the hood that need fixing.  Hoping the second go round of putty will solve that - might just need to fill them with primer!

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, AmericanMuscleFan said:

This is to be mistaken for a photo of a hood taken in a body shop, there are just the objects in the background that betray the illusion. 👌

Thanks, Francis, this made me smile!  My youngest brother used to work in a body shop and your comment reminded me of that and some of the problems he had to overcome with some of his jobs.

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, Biggu said:

The Master Class is in session. This is magnificent. Your attention to detail is incredible. And not only that, your execution is exquisite. Super fun to watch, Brian. 

Thanks, Jeff!  Like I mentioned to Ken above, new ideas about what to add keep popping up, but just doing the ones I think I can actually complete!

  • Like 1
Posted

Brian , as far as putty is concerned, I struggle with some of these putty’s too, and somewhere along the line, I heard about using REAL automotive body spot filler. A thin application and wet sanding can do wonders. Used sparingly it can show nice results. I used on the cab of my Heavy Haul Western Start I showed you. This is the stuff I use and this is as small as I could find and is about 14 lifetimes amount. But it does work 

IMG_5660.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted
6 minutes ago, Biggu said:

Brian , as far as putty is concerned, I struggle with some of these putty’s too, and somewhere along the line, I heard about using REAL automotive body spot filler. A thin application and wet sanding can do wonders. Used sparingly it can show nice results. I used on the cab of my Heavy Haul Western Start I showed you. This is the stuff I use and this is as small as I could find and is about 14 lifetimes amount. But it does work 

 

Appreciate the heads up - I'd have to try it on my old WS hood first - seems its a 'test bed' for my body work!

  • Like 1
Posted

I've tried just about everything ,,,,,Tamiya putty and Bondo spot glaze is all I use now,,, Brian,,remember not to make it too easy for the mechanics to gain engine access !!!  lol 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted

Not much to post today, but did want to pass on a little tip, new to me, that helped me out today.  Wanted to glue a thin piece of plastic sheet to the back of the inner hood brace, and trim it to look like the mounting flange around the edges of the brace.  I have to brace my hands quite steadily or I can make a very 'shaky' and messy glue pass.  Didn't want a much of a mess, because flange is so thin, so, made a quick guide for my Revell liquid glue dispenser.

 

Needed a 'non-messy' application of glue along outside edges of brace to glue a section of 0.2 mm sheet to backside of brace.  I taped a short length of brass rod to, and extending past the end, of the dispenser tip -

IMG_2647.jpg.020f114feaf811935717fd371781aa8f.jpg

 

I could then lay the applicator tip along the edges needing glue, and using slight pressure against the brass rod, apply the glue without the slop over I sometimes get with hands that shake a bit!

IMG_2650.jpg.4a4832bc696cedfd07dc6c1a15c2a7a6.jpg

 

The 0.2 mm sheet set in place and trimmed to width -

IMG_2949.jpg.39cb1ed5dc9f90f58de8ecd84edd3a01.jpg

 

Only a little bit of cleanup needed along the flange area - saved myself some extra work!

IMG_2954.jpg.d5bd3a17f4cca8111c01271a6d0a0975.jpg

 

All for now - off to do some work on the cab - thanks!

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Another package of my parts, printed by @Bren , arrived today, along with a few bonus items thrown in to check out! -

 

Some small valve handles for my plow control tower (so I can paint them more easily), plow light housings and lenses, crankshaft pulley driveshaft, hydraulic hose connections, electrical connectors, and a sampling of clevises with separate pins.

IMG_3012.jpg.277dd3b2ad0c77a68381f5534a419e89.jpg

 

Hydraulic pump drive shaft

IMG_3017.jpg.f969bb8ce3110b2e293abdb33bb0cf23.jpg

 

Plow light housing

IMG_2651.jpg.76b8f1bc8e9ad40ad55fed8683b0426b.jpg

 

Right hand dash board panel - made this panel because I wanted a dash mounted shifter for the Allison automatic transmission.  May need to make center and left hand panel sections as well because the kit decals won't look very good along side the right hand panel.  Will have to carefully cut out the kit's flat panel to fit the right hand panel in place and add the shifter handle.

IMG_3014.jpg.fe2a0936e481e5aac58ff0bf71d24c01.jpg

 

Should be ready to work on the cab/interior early next week.

Edited by BK9300
  • Like 5
Posted
27 minutes ago, Biggu said:

That dash panel looks awesome!!

 

26 minutes ago, Scott Eriksen said:

That dash panel looks super!

Thanks, Jeff and Scott - it's a bit made up, although I did see one pic online of a Western Star dash with an Allison shifter - just filled in the space to the left of the shifter with as many switches as looked appropriate!

  • Like 2
Posted

This is indeed a master class in detail work. So much detail…  I’m sure you will find a workable solution to those pesky pinholes on the hood. We had about 8” of that nasty white stuff at my place too. Wayyyy too much time shovelling over the last few days. 

Posted
On 2/4/2025 at 1:06 PM, Biggu said:

Brian , as far as putty is concerned, I struggle with some of these putty’s too, and somewhere along the line, I heard about using REAL automotive body spot filler. A thin application and wet sanding can do wonders. Used sparingly it can show nice results. I used on the cab of my Heavy Haul Western Start I showed you. This is the stuff I use and this is as small as I could find and is about 14 lifetimes amount. But it does work 

IMG_5660.jpeg

I have used spot and glazing putties over the years too Jeff.  Hard to beat them.  These days I try to stay away from anything toxic (my wife has very severe asthma)  so I've been using a water-based putty lately.   Can't remember the name offhand...currently at the doctor...flu 🫤...but it works ok from what i can tell.  Very lightweight and sands very easily.  Dry in 20-30 minutes,  only downside I've noticed so far is some adhesion issues, but with light sanding ahead of time to the application area I think that problem will go away.

  • Like 1
Posted

Cool stuff you received Brian, the 3D printed parts are really good quality now with the improvement in printer resolution and resin quality.  This remains at the 1/25 scale but the parts for heavy vehicles in your category are a little bit larger than those for cars of the same scale and that is an advantage I think.  One way or another, 3D technology has come on in leaps and bounds and all these little gems help keep interest in this wonderful hobby alive, you couldn't ask for more! 👍

Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, AmericanMuscleFan said:

Cool stuff you received Brian, the 3D printed parts are really good quality now with the improvement in printer resolution and resin quality.  This remains at the 1/25 scale but the parts for heavy vehicles in your category are a little bit larger than those for cars of the same scale and that is an advantage I think.  One way or another, 3D technology has come on in leaps and bounds and all these little gems help keep interest in this wonderful hobby alive, you couldn't ask for more! 👍

Yes, I'm very pleased with how well the small pieces turned out!  They are of such small size that I needed to get some of the hydraulic valve handles/switches printed separately - I was messing the surface of the tower up, trying to paint them when they were initially part of the tower.  3D parts certainly have a place as far as I'm concerned, because I simply cannot make items that small any other way.

 

Edited by BK9300
typo
  • Like 1
Posted
On 2/5/2025 at 6:31 PM, Steve H said:

This is indeed a master class in detail work. So much detail…  I’m sure you will find a workable solution to those pesky pinholes on the hood. We had about 8” of that nasty white stuff at my place too. Wayyyy too much time shovelling over the last few days. 

We just about made it through this winter without snow  - decided to all come in one snowfall!

Thanks for the compliment, Steve!  I'm fortunate to have taken a lot of decent pics of the truck way back when, so, been doing my best to make a good representation of what I'm able to.  And I've only got one (or two) pinholes left!  

  • Like 1

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