Shinny coat under Dechroming???

[ZIL 111V]

Dechromed many AMT chrome plated parts & noted that all chrome is gone BUT a shinny clear coat still on parts.......

Any product that will dechrome to the bare plastic

[Robyn]

I know Castrol Super Clean (purple power same thing) will completely strip it to bare plastic.

I also think 91% Isopropyl Alcohol and bleach will do the same but I have not tried either of them myself. I also think Easy-Off oven cleaner works as well but again I have not tried that myself.

Robyn

[MikeMc]

Is it just me or does anyone else just prime and paint OVER that???

Always seems to work for me.

[mr moto]

Is it just me or does anyone else just prime and paint OVER that???

Always seems to work for me.

Yeah, I've done that and it wasn't a problem but you can take it off with Super Clean just to be sure. Easy Off removes almost anything but I think it can also remove your sinuses and lungs so I don't recommend it to anybody!

[Foxer]

Is it just me or does anyone else just prime and paint OVER that???

Always seems to work for me.

I've been leaving it too cause my degreaser doesn't remove it, thou the chrome disappears completely in 5 minutes.

[CAL]

Is it just me or does anyone else just prime and paint OVER that???

Always seems to work for me.

I do, I have been told it's just clear lacquer.

[Ddms]

Leave it on.

I'm "re-chroming" some small suspension parts with Alclad II, and I've just been through the same worry. I got some great advice and didn't touch it, and it worked out just fine. Black enamel sticks just fine to that coating. It's very smooth, a perfect surface for the Alclad.

If you're working on small parts like I was, there's also a risk of damaging them in trying to remove it.

Ddms

[Dragline]

It is indeed a clearcoat of some kind, but I submit this:

Aren't you dechroming to remove the parting lines?

In my experience [i'm new to Alclad I admit], the point of dechroming is to remove unsightly and unrealistic parting lines.

So, since you will be sanding the item, it makes sense to reseal it afterward.

A glossy finish is mandatory unless you are going so another type of look/finish.

Just an observation.

Bob F

[ZIL 111V]

Thanks to everyone....

Been dechroming parts for years with EOFF, bleach, DOT3, etc, never noticed that clear coat, same thing when I dechrome older kits plated parts; no under clear coat on parts...goes straight to plastic, no matter what is used.

[buffalobill]

I've been using Windex (brand, not generic) window cleaner for years, and it works fairly slowly, but gently, to remove the plating on plastic parts. Some plated parts - esp those in older issue kits - lose their plating in a few minutes, while some of the newer (and usually) better plated ones may take longer. Suggest using an old toothbrush and lightly scrub any stubborn spots after the parts soaked for awhile. It seems that the Windex loses it's potency to strip off plating after 30-60 minutes, so changing out the Windex w/ a new batch will speed things along. Probably has to do w/ the ammonia in the Windex evaporating when exposed to air. . .I've seen very little, or no, differance if I cover the dish or jar w/ the Windex & parts, rather than leave it uncovered.

Lastly, when the plating has all flaked off, soak the dechromed parts in a very weak solution of luke warm (only) dishwashing liquid & water (filtered tap water is fine) for a couple of minutes. The slightly soapy solution acts as an anti-static on the parts, and it'll also remove any residue left from the Windex and dissolved plating. Sometmes, on older plated parts, a yucky/gummy crud may still be lodged in a few recessed areas of the part, so lightly scrub those areas w/ that old toothbrush. If that doesn't work, one may need to gently pick out the areas w/ a #11 blade or similar tool. Most of the time, the smooth lacquer film is not stripped off, unless the parts sit in the Windex overnight.

Even if I'm removing mold-parting lines w/ a file, a scraper, & sandpaper, I find that I get better results if I first strip the plating off the part(s) since it's much easier to feather a repair on bare plastic, than on a still partially plated part.

Windex doesn't smell bad, won't craze plastic, is safe to handle, can be dumped down the sink w/ out any harm, and is inexpensive (esp so, if one's mother or spouse already has it under their sink).

[torinobradley]

There are many times where I will remove the chrome and the laquer because it is too thick and obscures the part details. I usually use easy-off in a ziploc. Chrome is gone in seconds but it takes a while for the other paint to soften/go away.

[Dennis Lacy]

I always use Westleys Bleach White Tire Cleaner. I typically let the parts soak in it for about 4-5 days and this completely removes the clear coat under the plating. I have also, unintentionally, left parts (from old and newer issue kits) soaking for two weeks with no damage to the plastic. I keep the chemical in a Tupperware sandwhich container and have been using the same "batch" for over a year with no noticeable loss in potency.

[Guest]

I use Simple Green to remove chrome. The chrome is gone in 24 hours, a day or so longer, and the laquer is removed. You may have to scrub a bit with a toothbrush to remove it from nooks and crannies. I have left parts in for a week with no adverse effects.

[Semi Trailer Mechanic]

What's goin' on...

This is a problem I've run into several times. I'll have to try a few of these tips.