Dead battery and column shifter will not go into neutral.

[A modeler named mike]

I am in need of some advice about getting a 2005 Mercury Grand Marquis with a dead battery into neutral so it can be push back enough from the garage front wall in order to access the hood and either replace or charge the battery. I went to YouTube with no luck, many videos but none that are exactly like the mechanism I'm seeing. I have the rubber access cover around the ignition and column shifter swung out of the way to view the internals. Most videos show a pin that needs to be pushed down to release the gear shift but I'm not seeing that pin. I've attached a photo of the internal mechanism. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated... Mike

[stitchdup]

can you lift the drive wheels and push/drag it back?

[A modeler named mike]

🤔°°That could be a viable option I hadn't thought of, I'll have to get a larger floor jack as the current one is for smaller weighted vehicles. Thanks Les.. 

[Ace-Garageguy]

Not a problem I've ever encountered on one of these.

Moving the car back enough to get a charger on the battery is probably the best option, as the shifter interlock should work if there's juice to it, most likely with the key turned and pressure on the brake pedal.

[johnyrotten]

4 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Not a problem I've ever encountered on one of these.

Moving the car back enough to get a charger on the battery is probably the best option, as the shifter interlock should work if there's juice to it, most likely with the key turned and pressure on the brake pedal.

Yup, and why there wouldn't be a non- powered emergency option is beyond me. 

[dmthamade]

Some fords, turn ignition key to 1st position AKA accessories, shift out of park.

 

Don

[dmthamade]

Just now, dmthamade said:

Some fords, turn ignition key to 1st position AKA accessories, shift out of park. Interlock not engaged on some with no power to system, not powered up until in run.

 

Don

 

[Ace-Garageguy]

2 minutes ago, johnyrotten said:

Yup, and why there wouldn't be a non- powered emergency option is beyond me. 

I don't know if there is or not. Not the stuff I work on generally.

I put a late-model FWD Caddy console in a '47, using the cable that came in the console to shift the 4L60E that came with the low-mileage Corvette C5 LS engine I put in it.

There was a powered interlock solenoid on the shifter in the console, normally activated by stepping on the brake pedal, and no dead-battery override.

I built one, not difficult, accessed through a small rubber plug in the LH console side.

Worked like a champ when the first owner stored it long-term and the battery went dead. Then the next owner of the car had some chimps work on the thing, and destroyed the console because nobody gave them the special operating book we printed, had bound, and delivered with the completed car...or they didn't bother to read.

[A modeler named mike]

28 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Not a problem I've ever encountered on one of these.

Moving the car back enough to get a charger on the battery is probably the best option, as the shifter interlock should work if there's juice to it, most likely with the key turned and pressure on the brake pedal.

Got the car drug back enough to pop the hood and get a battery tender on it. Now I'm hearing a drumroll kinda noise coming from under the center of the dash. The noise goes away when the key is in the ignition and turned to the on position it stops. 🙄

[Ace-Garageguy]

15 minutes ago, A modeler named mike said:

Got the car drug back enough to pop the hood and get a battery tender on it. Now I'm hearing a drumroll kinda noise coming from under the center of the dash. The noise goes away when the key is in the ignition and turned to the on position it stops. 🙄

Not my area of knowledge. I have some ideas, but I'll leave advice to fellas who do know.

[johnyrotten]

I was curious and looked this up. Seems like there is an electronic interlock, no mention of an emergency manual option from what I've read. Lots of talk about blown fuses and it being powered off the brake light circuit. Try charging it as are and give it a shot.

[A modeler named mike]

7 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Not my area of knowledge. I have some ideas, but I'll leave advice to fellas who do know.

I found out it might be a safety actuator fan. So I disconnected the battery from the car and put it back on the battery tender. Now time will tell.

[dmthamade]

Noise you describe kinda sounds like a HVAC door actuator going/gone bad. Diagnosing thru the computer screen/keyboard can be hit and miss.

Don

[sfhess]

Do you have the owners manual for the car?  There are probably instructions on how to release the shifter when the battery is dead.

I had to deal with the interlock when I had to repair the shifter in a 2004 Taurus.

[dmthamade]

Ok, so back in the day, fords had wiring problems at the brake light switch. Wire would break right at the connector, disabling the interlock system. Like i said before, turn the ignition key to accessory position, this unlocks the shifter and you can shift the car into neutral. This lets you start car or roll it around if it's dead for other reasons. Have to say, most newer cars have interlock systems fairly easily bypassed, usually can be accessed in less than a minute. Knowing how is the issue...

 

Don

[Rodent]

 

 

[A modeler named mike]

4 hours ago, dmthamade said:

Noise you describe kinda sounds like a HVAC door actuator going/gone bad. Diagnosing thru the computer screen/keyboard can be hit and miss.

Don

Yes it does sound like an actuator door stuck. I have to deal with on my '94 Silverado, it stops after a few minutes, but from what a mechanic friend of my brother said not to worry it's probably a safety door to keep carbon monoxide from being trapped in the car.. we'll see when the battery is fully charged. 

[A modeler named mike]

47 minutes ago, dmthamade said:

Ok, so back in the day, fords had wiring problems at the brake light switch. Wire would break right at the connector, disabling the interlock system. Like i said before, turn the ignition key to accessory position, this unlocks the shifter and you can shift the car into neutral. This lets you start car or roll it around if it's dead for other reasons. Have to say, most newer cars have interlock systems fairly easily bypassed, usually can be accessed in less than a minute. Knowing how is the issue...

 

Don

With the key in and in any position the column shifter wouldn't budge. Speaking of budge, I took Les's (stitchdup) suggestion and jacked it up drag it away from the wall to access under the hood. Waiting for the battery to fully charge now. Thanks..

[johnyrotten]

1 hour ago, A modeler named mike said:

With the key in and in any position the column shifter wouldn't budge. Speaking of budge, I took Les's (stitchdup) suggestion and jacked it up drag it away from the wall to access under the hood. Waiting for the battery to fully charge now. Thanks..

This may be unrelated,  I've seen certain early/mid 2000 ford vehicles have loose bolts under the column that interfere with the neutral safety switch,  and proper gear selection. If the park, neutral, drive ect. Isn't lined up, kinda halfway in-between park and neutral, it's a sure bet the two torx bolts are loose. Just something to check for, not sure if your vehicle has that common issue.

[A modeler named mike]

Update on the Mercury, after charging the battery overnight and hooking the car's cables to the battery again absolutely nothing, not enough juice to light up the headlights. Went and bought a new battery and she's ALIVE and well again. 

Thank you to everyone for putting some insight into my debacle. 

Sincerely Mike