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Posted

So, I am new to airbrushing and it is really beating me like a drum. I take 2 steps foward and 1 7/8 steps back. So I am doing my 56 Ford Victoria two tone - white and blue. I thought I had done a good job on masking, but there are a couple of small spots where the blue came back into the white. And it shows. The white is Createx Wicked White and the Blue is Tamiya X4 blue. So the Tamiya is a different solvent than the Createx. Createx is water??? and Tamiya is kinda like alcohol??? I am at a loss what to do. Also, why is it that I have such an incredible hard time trying to airbrush white? In this case Createx Wicked White. I thinned it to close to milk, using .050 nozzle, and air pressure at 22 psi. ???? Thanks all.

  • Like 1
Posted

White Createx is tough to airbrush - it’s not their most user friendly color.

If you have a store near you that stocks Vallejo, what I would do in this situation is pick up some of THEIR white, or optionally the Tamiya acrylic white, mask the blue areas that need to stay blue, and reshoot the white

Both of those white acrylics are super easy to spray, very opaque, and save a complete strip & redo

Posted

Is it overspray or paint getting under the masking? It sounds more like paint getting under the masking. If that is so, use quality masking material, make sure the masking material is burnished down really good, and apply some clear over the masked and unmasked areas prior to applying the second color to seal the edge of the masking material. Then after the color coat has dried enough to handle, run a sharp blade along the edge or the masking before removing it to prevent lifting the new color

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Regarding the Createx white paint, Wicked or otherwise. You shouldn't need to thin that much. It will spray fine mixed thicker, especially with about 10-15% 4030 added. Thin that combo with 4011 or better yet 4021 reducer, up to 50% of the volume. So you're no where near skim milk. Up your pressure to mid 20's using the .5 tip ( I actually use bigger than that but .5 should do fine).. I use the white a lot, either as white or as the base to mix pastels ( I also use the pearlized white to good effect). I shoot over white Stynylrez primer, even if you thinned 1-1, you still get coverage over the white Stynylrez). Each coat needs to flash off, or flash dry, then add the next coat and so on till you get the build you want. Don't go by the leveling when first shot on and wet, but see how smooth it flashed off to. It should level right out.

4030 is your best friend when shooting models or other hard surfaces with Createx paints, for several reasons I've covered before in the forums.. And 4021 is their latest and greatest reducer.

Edited by Dave G.
Posted
13 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

Can you post a pic of the overspray? You might be able to polish it off if its light enough.

I will do that tomorrow for sure.

Posted
16 hours ago, rossfox said:

I will do that tomorrow for sure.

On the fender and also where the windshield meets the body. 

DSC03586.JPG

DSC03587.JPG

Posted
1 hour ago, rossfox said:

On the fender and also where the windshield meets the body. 

DSC03586.JPG

DSC03587.JPG

most of the excess paint looks like the foil/chrome will hide it. the other areas on the white you could try some 2500 on and it will probably come off easily. if you run a toothpick or similar around the tape you can reduce the paint flowing under the tape, or a quick dusting of clear works too as both seal the tape edge down. I like the duck yellow tape with the stain block as it cuts nice, sticks well but not so well it pulls paint off and thin strips go around corners smoother than tamiya does

Posted

You could also do some touch-ups with a brush…thin coats. If you don’t tell anyone they likely wouldn’t notice.

Posted
2 hours ago, stitchdup said:

most of the excess paint looks like the foil/chrome will hide it. the other areas on the white you could try some 2500 on and it will probably come off easily. if you run a toothpick or similar around the tape you can reduce the paint flowing under the tape, or a quick dusting of clear works too as both seal the tape edge down. I like the duck yellow tape with the stain block as it cuts nice, sticks well but not so well it pulls paint off and thin strips go around corners smoother than tamiya does

Thanks for the advice!

Posted

Tamiya Fine polishing compound applied with a cotton swab would clean most of that up. But as Les says, much of it looks like chrome foil will cover it.

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