are you an inny or an outy?

[sidcharles]

when 1:1 guys start body modifications, especially on older cars with questionable structural integrity, there's temporary bracing which gets bolted or welded inside to maintain symmetry & strength through the process.

at some point the modified structure become stable enough to hold itself, the bracing is removed, and the construction process is completed.

Q: when modeling, is there a similar step which takes place? or is the determined final outcome so confident there's no need and it's process is more "wing & a prayer".

Q: do you make a temporary external structure to hold the body so that cuts & other modifications will be consistently uniform, or use the "putty is sold by the bucket for a reason" school of thought.

workmanship of risk or workmanship of certainty?

please discuss

[Ace-Garageguy]

It depends on the specific modeling project.

Real-car guys add temporary bracing when doing extensive heavy mods like top-chopping because...doors.

Model cars with solidly molded in doors don't require this step, but bodies with opening doors do.

And model builders who strive for quality work don't rely on poorly thought-out sloppy craftsmanship and buckets of filler any more than competent real-car guys do.

Edited July 12 by Ace-Garageguy

[stitchdup]

yes and i often have a spare body to check against along the way

[NOBLNG]

Usually an internal structure would be easier to attach. I did it to this Jeepster when I changed the front clip and opened the hood. Also on this ‘51 Chevy when I chopped and channeled it.

 

 

Edited July 12 by NOBLNG

[sidcharles]

Q: what type of adhesive did you use?

would micro-clear or white glue be strong enough? or go full monte and use styrene adhesive?

i'm working on a plan . . . .  i want to align (4) fenders so i can drop a body over them for marking & fitting [two step process].

a styrene base plate with shims to hold the body level, and sides to hold it in lateral alignment. something like a roll cage inside & styrene strips to adjust.

but all should be removeable after the fenders & body are fitted to each other.

the body styrene is great but flexible [thin] so i would like to have a consistent shape once the marking, cutting, & filing starts.

i want the fenders fit to the body, not the body being deformed/ asymmetrical to the fenders.

thanks

 

sid

[stitchdup]

3 minutes ago, sidcharles said:

Q: what type of adhesive did you use?

would micro-clear or white glue be strong enough? or go full monte and use styrene adhesive?

i'm working on a plan . . . .  i want to align (4) fenders so i can drop a body over them for marking & fitting [two step process].

a styrene base plate with shims to hold the body level, and sides to hold it in lateral alignment. something like a roll cage inside & styrene strips to adjust.

but all should be removeable after the fenders & body are fitted to each other.

the body styrene is great but flexible [thin] so i would like to have a consistent shape once the marking, cutting, & filing starts.

i want the fenders fit to the body, not the body being deformed/ asymmetrical to the fenders.

thanks,

 

sid

i just used normal poly cement on the golf but i would use superglue usually as it can be picked off unkeyed styrene and has good hold. What is it you are fitting the fenders to? a 30 bugatti would be different to a hotrod and is it cycle fenders or full?

[sidcharles]

Atlantis Keelers Fiat Dragster. i have always wanted a street version. [see that thread i resurrected]

i have built the Tamiya & Bronco (?) small scale - it may have been a Simca, bit i want a 1:25 scale for my model railroad. kind of give it some panache, eh?

the fenders i thought i could use (Tamiya Toyoda) are too big, but today i think i can cut down the Revell '37 Ford pickup fronts to be okay.

i really am only using the compound curve, so time will tell.

thanx for the glue-tip, too.

 

sid

[stitchdup]

52 minutes ago, sidcharles said:

Atlantis Keelers Fiat Dragster. i have always wanted a street version. [see that thread i resurrected]

i have built the Tamiya & Bronco (?) small scale - it may have been a Simca, bit i want a 1:25 scale for my model railroad. kind of give it some panache, eh?

the fenders i thought i could use (Tamiya Toyoda) are too big, but today i think i can cut down the Revell '37 Ford pickup fronts to be okay.

i really am only using the compound curve, so time will tell.

thanx for the glue-tip, too.

 

sid

maybe try making a jig to hold the tyres. then you can tape or bluetac the fenders to them. lego might work for building a jig

[sidcharles]

another great idea down the tubes.

i wanted to mount the Fiat body on a Revell model A chassis, so that would have established wheelbase & track = footprint.

the track would work with the right (small 'n' narrow) tyres, but the wheelbase would require shortening and that put the kibosh on

the whole idea. for now it can languish in the box on the shelf until a rainy day. man, i had plans for that car, too.

i'll probably cobble some sort of "race car" from the kit & some of the parts i have around at some point.

it will be a forcing function just to try new techniques and stay in shape.

as we know, every model is simply practice for the following one.

[Jon Haigwood]

I build a lot of T Bucket projects and use evergreen square tubbing glue across from one side to the other with Canopy cement. Helps support the body and gives a handy spot to attach to when painting. Peels off when done.