Deuce roadster / tub kit bash

[customline]

4 hours ago, mchook said:

Man, I wish I could build something this nice. Great job, I love it!

You are, Mark, I've seen the IH pickup. Thanks for your comments.

Edited September 4 by customline

[customline]

I don't exactly know why I didn't try this first but after my night-time "medication" kicked in,  I dug out some .005 sheet and the rest is a blur. 

like....why didn't I try this first? Much better, thank you very much 💩

Sometimes the simple stuff works 🥴.

 

Edited September 4 by customline

[bill-e-boy]

This is looking wicked Jim. Always wondered how the AMT bodies would work with the Revell chassis. The AMT bodies have quite a severe wedge section and give you a rakish look without trying. May not be too accurate for a stock looking car but in the right place perfect - just like here

[customline]

5 hours ago, bill-e-boy said:

This is looking wicked Jim. Always wondered how the AMT bodies would work with the Revell chassis. The AMT bodies have quite a severe wedge section and give you a rakish look without trying. May not be too accurate for a stock looking car but in the right place perfect - just like here

I surprise myself now and then, Bill. 🥴.  Seriously.  My last '40 coupe was decent too.  But most of my stuff 🤮

I never worried too much about accuracy before I started listening to the lunatics on this forum. 🤣  It's a hot rod so anything goes. It's mandatory 🤨....especially my poorly bobbed fenders 🥴.

Some of the stuff I did was because of the way I sexually abused the floorboard. It was already channelled badly so I had to do some things I regret. It created extra work and if there's one thing I reeeeealy hate its extra work.

Edited September 6 by customline

[bill-e-boy]

1 hour ago, customline said:

Some of the stuff I did was because of the way I sexually abused the floorboard

Dont let it touch other stuff. I may become transmitted..........

[customline]

8 hours ago, bill-e-boy said:

Dont let it touch other stuff. I may become transmitted..........

I'm watching it closely. It's not the first time.

Edited September 6 by customline

[James2]

Quite interesting, I like it!

[customline]

3 minutes ago, James2 said:

Quite interesting, I like it!

 I'm glad you do, Rooster. It not for everyone. 😁

[Mopar2]

Awesome build...Great color for the chassis and car...And detail is really cool...

[customline]

8 hours ago, Mopar2 said:

Awesome build...Great color for the chassis and car...And detail is really cool...

Thanks, Anthony.  I really like this kit.  When I opened the box and saw all that chrome plated front suspension, I felt ill. 🤢  This kit was a pleasure compared to my memory of Big Daddy's "Outlaw" from a half-century ago.

[customline]

 I painted it yesterday. The result is making me want to set it down on the floor and stomp on it. I really want it to work but I think maybe there are incompatibility issues with the products I am using. Tamiya on top of Mr. Surfacer.   The door lines were filled with Mr. Surfacer.  When I primed the body with Tamiya white I noticed the lines became "swollen" and a few tiny bubbles erupted.  I sanded the areas smooth and primed it again. It looked okay. Then the color was applied and, while drying, the lines popped out again along with tiny bubbles. 🤯

So, is it the Tamiya causing the problem or the Mr. Surfacer?  If anyone knows, feel free to enlighten us all. 

And now....👇🤨

It's cursed. 😕

[espo]

Had the same problem on a couple of builds where I changed the door lines or shortened a pickup bed. Wish I knew the answer. Mounds of body filler and they still show up after the final paint gasses out. 

[TopherMcGinnis]

I have no idea. How long did you wait to apply primer/paint over Mr. Surfacer?

I am in no way a professional painter. When I was looking to start airbrushing, I asked my painter buddy about different paints. He told me to pick one "system" and learn it: acrylic, enamel or lacquer. He advised against mixing different manufacturer's products for compatibility reasons. I chose Createx after some research due to their technical data sheet availability. Plus, they have a rather large array of colors. Easy to use and easy to clean up. The next piece of advice he gave me was PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE AND PRACTICE MORE!

[customline]

17 hours ago, TopherMcGinnis said:

I have no idea. How long did you wait to apply primer/paint over Mr. Surfacer?

I am in no way a professional painter. When I was looking to start airbrushing, I asked my painter buddy about different paints. He told me to pick one "system" and learn it: acrylic, enamel or lacquer. He advised against mixing different manufacturer's products for compatibility reasons. I chose Createx after some research due to their technical data sheet availability. Plus, they have a rather large array of colors. Easy to use and easy to clean up. The next piece of advice he gave me was PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE AND PRACTICE MORE!

I think Tamiya lacquer may be too "hot" to go over the Mr. Surfacer, which has a very strange odor. I'm removing the surfacer  from the door lines and will fill with Tamiya putty. That should make the problem go away, right? Theoretically 🤔....and then another flipping paint job. 😣

[NOBLNG]

1 hour ago, customline said:

I think Tamiya lacquer may be too "hot" to go over the Mr. Surfacer, which has a very strange odor. I'm removing the surfacer  from the door lines and will fill with Tamiya putty. That should make the problem go away, right? Theoretically 🤔....and then another flipping paint job. 😣

What I would do for filling door lines is to fill them with round or half round styrene and Tamiya thin cement. Smoosh it in real good and scrape/sand flush when fully dry. You could use the butt end of a drill bit to re-scribe the seams to match the size of evergreen you have. (0.030” drill for 0.030” evergreen for example). The putty should work also, but I would use a primer/sealer over it. Bear in mind that I am no expert JMO.🤔

Edited Monday at 05:38 PM by NOBLNG

[bill-e-boy]

What a b1+ch Jim. Ghost lines in your paint job. It is the bane of us kit bashers. 

What Greg suggests is spot on. You are best to fill the gap with tight fitting plastic glued with thin cement. You do need to use primer/surfacer and a lot of sanding. I have found with lacquer paints to take sanding out to at least 2000 grit

Also helps to shoot a barrier coat of silver on the primer surfacer before your colour coats. The metallic paint seems to seal the body works better. 

And I have not had trouble mixing and matching primer/surfacer and colour brands but do let the paints gas out between primer and colour coats.

The lacquer paints are fairly hot at the best of times and will pull into any sanding scratches or other filling operations. A pain and it is a bit of gamble as to whether there will be issues or not. Also I think use 2 part epoxy fillers for things like these door lines works better than say 1 part fillers like Tamiya and others. The paint tends to suck into the filler and you cant see it till you put a topcoat on. And it can happen over time when you think you have dodged the bullet. I have heard that the Tamiya light curing filler is good for this too.  

Just a pain and a party killer when it happens - I feel your disappointment

[James2]

Splash Paints has a 2x primer that might eliminate this issue, I purchased some but have not applied any yet. Any plastic might react to Tamiya primer/paint in my experience. 

Have you tried buffing yet?

Edited Monday at 07:41 PM by James2

[customline]

4 hours ago, bill-e-boy said:

What a b1+ch Jim. Ghost lines in your paint job. It is the bane of us kit bashers. 

What Greg suggests is spot on. You are best to fill the gap with tight fitting plastic glued with thin cement. You do need to use primer/surfacer and a lot of sanding. I have found with lacquer paints to take sanding out to at least 2000 grit

Also helps to shoot a barrier coat of silver on the primer surfacer before your colour coats. The metallic paint seems to seal the body works better. 

And I have not had trouble mixing and matching primer/surfacer and colour brands but do let the paints gas out between primer and colour coats.

The lacquer paints are fairly hot at the best of times and will pull into any sanding scratches or other filling operations. A pain and it is a bit of gamble as to whether there will be issues or not. Also I think use 2 part epoxy fillers for things like these door lines works better than say 1 part fillers like Tamiya and others. The paint tends to suck into the filler and you cant see it till you put a topcoat on. And it can happen over time when you think you have dodged the bullet. I have heard that the Tamiya light curing filler is good for this too.  

Just a pain and a party killer when it happens - I feel your disappointment

3 hours ago, James2 said:

Splash Paints has a 2x primer that might eliminate this issue, I purchased some but have not applied any yet. Any plastic might react to Tamiya primer/paint in my experience. 

Have you tried buffing yet?

Thanks for your advice on this, gents.

I didn't have ghosting, I had an actual physical manifestation. The filler actually swelled and produced tiny bubbles. I've never seen this before. It's freaky. When it happened after the first application of Tamiya white primer, it wasn't nearly as bad but I should have realized something was wrong. That primer coat was sanded and, maybe a week later, primed.  When that coat was sufficiently dry I shot the color, and then into the dehydrator. OK, maybe not enough time between primer and color but never had a problem before. 

I have removed the Mr. Surfacer from the door lines and refilled with Bondo which is what I should have done to start with. Tomorrow I will prime with a cheap "automotive" primer I have used in the past.  After that, the future is uncertain. 

[customline]

6 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

What I would do for filling door lines is to fill them with round or half round styrene and Tamiya thin cement. Smoosh it in real good and scrape/sand flush when fully dry. You could use the butt end of a drill bit to re-scribe the seams to match the size of evergreen you have. (0.030” drill for 0.030” evergreen for example). The putty should work also, but I would use a primer/sealer over it. Bear in mind that I am no expert JMO.🤔

That sounds like a really good way to fill door lines, Greg. The next time this comes up I will certainly try it. 

[LennyB]

18 minutes ago, customline said:

I have removed the Mr. Surfacer from the door lines and refilled with Bondo which is what I should have done to start with. Tomorrow I will prime with a cheap "automotive" primer I have used in the past.  After that, the future is uncertain. 

Bondo is a cheap date, it should get along well with the "automotive" primer. As long as they don't fight over who pays the bill.

[Quiet Eric]

Bummer on the door lines but the rest is looking really good. I often use thick CA glue to fill things like that...dries nice and hard, and quick too with the spray of some activator. Block sand it down then a little primer is all it needs to smooth out.

[customline]

2 hours ago, Quiet Eric said:

Bummer on the door lines but the rest is looking really good. I often use thick CA glue to fill things like that...dries nice and hard, and quick too with the spray of some activator. Block sand it down then a little primer is all it needs to smooth out.

I often use CA that way, Q.E., but not this time, for some reason I can't explain. And not this time, either. I was angry so I used Bondo.(probably because I like the smell 🤓)

[customline]

13 hours ago, LennyB said:

Bondo is a cheap date, it should get along well with the "automotive" primer. As long as they don't fight over who pays the bill.

There's nothing better than a cheap date, Len.  😉

[dino246gt]

What I found using Tamiya putty, (lacquer based) then either Tamiya or Dupli-color primer, (also lacquer based) is that they interact with each other and will pretty much never work out. 

Spraying actual PAINT (still lacquer) will create a barrier, primer over putty is a never ending problem, and I LOVE doing major mods that require several do-overs.

So putty, sand, prime, paint, then sand, putty, prime, and paint again. (I use up spray cans that I won't every use on a car for the barrier as long as they're lacquer based)

Once I'm happy, I'll prime the whole body to be uniform in coverage for the actual paint I want the car to be. 

The BEST solution is not to use putty for major filling, but as NOBLING suggests, use styrene bits instead of putty, it can be done and melted with Tamiya extra thin cement.

I salute all of you who do major styrene surgery, cheers!

[customline]

9 hours ago, dino246gt said:

 

Spraying actual PAINT (still lacquer) will create a barrier, primer over putty is a never ending problem, and I LOVE doing major mods that require several do-overs.

So putty, sand, prime, paint, then sand, putty, prime, and paint again. 

Dennis.....I'm confused. 🙁   you are using lacquer gloss color paint to seal what exactly? The putty? Or the primer?