Testor's one coat clear!!!

[cruz]

I keep hearing good things about this clear. How many of you guys like it out there? Do they wet-sand and polish well?

[Guest Davkin]

I love it myself and have had wonderful, nearly effortless results with it. The key is to dump it on heavy enough that it self-levels. Be careful to not hold the can too close to what you're painting however, it is possble to trap little bubbles of propellant if you do so. I personally never wet-sand it, I've never found that step to be necessary. I just use rubbing compound to get it smooth then a hand glaze to make it shine.

David

[Chillyb1]

But how does it look on a model? I'm also tempted to try it, but I don't like the heavy or super-glossy look. Extra thick gloss coats look good on customs, show rods, or lowriders, but I build factory stock or road race cars that don't require deep clear coats. Is this one-coat stuff suitable for this kind of application? I really like Tamiya's TS-13 because it goes on in really thin coats and works really well for recreating realistic finishes on the kinds of models I build.

Any comments? Or photos?

[curt raitz]

But how does it look on a model? I'm also tempted to try it, but I don't like the heavy or super-glossy look. Extra thick gloss coats look good on customs, show rods, or lowriders, but I build factory stock or road race cars that don't require deep clear coats. Is this one-coat stuff suitable for this kind of application? I really like Tamiya's TS-13 because it goes on in really thin coats and works really well for recreating realistic finishes on the kinds of models I build.

Any comments? Or photos?

I shoot Model Masters Ultra Gloss Clearcoat and it is similiar to Tamiya's TS-13.

It lends itself to color sanding and/or buffing quite well.

The only problem I've ever encountered with Tamiya's Clear is if you mask over it, the clear has lifted when pullin' the tape off. Just happened once, not sure if it's the paint or the surface wasn't clean when painted.

[Guest Davkin]

but I don't like the heavy or super-glossy look

Then you don't want to use the One coat, the MML Ultra-Glosscote might work for you though and it's just as easy to use, in fact I prefer it a little over the One Coat.

David

[MikeMc]

The Testors One-Coat Clear goes on quite a bit thicker than Tamiya clear. I personally like that because it has much less of a tendency to run than does TS-13.

My advice is, if you're happy with the Tamiya clear, you should definitely stick with that.

I agree....most of the MM lacquers are thick...vs Tamiya...I've worked with both of them (Diamond Dust is a favorite basecoat)

and I prefer Tamiya, but MM is $$$ better! I usually clear with the color and love my TS13!!

[old-hermit]

Testors paint SUCKS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Worst ###### on the market.

I've had better luck with Wal Mart $1.00 a can paint. IMHO.

[cruz]

Thanks for the response guys! Personally, if it's too thick I will probably stay away from it and if I decide to use it I will airbrush it, I like to see and keep the subtle details on my models. Looks to me that it will be perfect for customs or any models that have less details like scripts and molding. Again, thanks for the quick response!!!

[guiwee]

But how does it look on a model? I'm also tempted to try it, but I don't like the heavy or super-glossy look. Extra thick gloss coats look good on customs, show rods, or lowriders, but I build factory stock or road race cars that don't require deep clear coats. Is this one-coat stuff suitable for this kind of application? I really like Tamiya's TS-13 because it goes on in really thin coats and works really well for recreating realistic finishes on the kinds of models I build.

Any comments? Or photos?

Hey chill funny you should ask that I just tried it out myself on a mustang here:http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=21063

You be the judge..keep in mind.all I did was shoot paint..then cleared..all with testors 2-part base coat lacquer system.No polish..no buffing..just

straight dehydrator then shelf! All in about 2 days. Currently doing a 09 challenger which I will try to achieve better results with.

My advice is try it out for yourself..can of base and clear is only $10 bucks near me.Actually a little less.

One salient point is testors nozzles are inferior to tamiyas.Personally I liked the results.Which is why Im trying it again.

http://s715.photobucket.com/albums/ww151/guiwee/

[tabsscale1]

I keep hearing good things about this clear. How many of you guys like it out there? Do they wet-sand and polish well?

This was Done with Tesors One caot paints . I did shoot it throughmy airbrush though as i don't likethe nozzles on the cans. I have some others done with it but no pictures but I used it out of the can with same results. This was before I polished it out.

[Chuck Most]

I've used this stuff over all types of paint, and I love it. It comes out nice and glossy, and with some polishing- whoa. These one-coat laquers changed my mind about Testors paint- they've become my favorite product to use. Sure glad they expanded the color selection a while back!

[Ddms]

The best deal around is U-POL.

It's made in England, and it's available in the U.S. at the Sam Ditchek & Sons website. It's very similar to TS-13. A giant half-liter can costs something like $5.95 and will probably clear-coat ten 1/24 cars and 30 43s. They call it the "Power Can" and it's intended for professional auto painters. I much prefer it to 2k urethane; it's easily as good as TS-13. The only drawback is that, if you put on the first coat too wet and heavy, it will ruin decals just like TS-13. But it doesn't produce that high carbo dipped-in-Aunt Jemima's look that some of us dislike so much, ChillyB.

Edited July 3, 2009 by Ddms

[E St. Kruiser50]

Well all, guess I'm gonna STEP IN IT AGAIN .

Here's the clear coat you will NEVER EVER hear anyone complain about, if they ever try it, and use it properly.

You can get it at auto parts stores that sell PlastiKote laquer AUTOMOBILE paints - #349

On the can it say's SINCE 1923.

WHO ELSE HAS BEEN AROUND THAT LONG MAKING PAINT???

Been using this for over ten years.

I rub it out 12 to 16 hours after the last coat.

Haven't blown a paint job in years.

Testors and Tamiyia's clear I keep hearing about problems, that's because it's made cheap for hobbiest's, except it's not cheap to buy only to manufacture - $6.25 for 3oz. IT'S A HOBBY PAINT.

PlastiKote and DupliColor, on the other hand, are made for the auto industry as touch up paints.

PlastiKote's clear for $4.95 for 12 oz. - 4X as much for better paint, way less money - and no complaints .

IT GOES OVER EVERYTHING INCLUDING ENAMELS (If you know my secret ).

I can see beginners starting out with these hobby paints, and most stayin' there 'cause their satisfied, and that's good for Tamiya and Testors, but for the life of me guy's, with all the info on this site about painting and products, why do I continually hear the same complaints from the same people, who want a better paint job, who should be way past this stage of building and problems?

And some of you "Old Timers" keep passing on the same bad info to the new guy's, and then they have problems .

DEFINITION OF INSANITY - Doing the same thing over and over again, and expecting different results .

GO FIGURE ?????????????

I'm off my soap-box now

Edited July 2, 2009 by Treehugger Dave

[MrObsessive]

My choice of clear is plain 'ol Tamiya X-22................yeah the water based stuff. Yes, you need an airbrush though to use it...............

You messed up? While it's wet, a simple spray of Windex (or any other ammonia) will take it right off.

Put the body in the dehydrator for 8+ hours and it's hard as a rock.

Just my 2¢.

[old-hermit]

Here's the clear coat you will NEVER EVER hear anyone complain about, if they ever try it, and use it properly.

I agree 100% !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Guest Davkin]

And some of you "Old Timers" keep passing on the same bad info to the new guy's, and then they have problems

Unless I'm mistaken Dave the only person in this thread that mentioned having a bad experience with the new Testors clear is Al, so explain to me how this is bad info when the reviews in this thread are overwhelmingly positive? I don't mind you giving your opinion Dave, I don't even mind you giving it "enthusiastically" but don't put down the opinions of others, let alone call it bad info. I, as do most on this forum I'm sure have great respect for your building prowess and obviously your techniques work great for you and it's great that you are open and share them with others. However, your way isn't the only way, not even the only correct way, in fact it may not even be the best way for everybody so be please show some respect for the opinions of others.

David

[cruz]

Unless I'm mistaken Dave the only person in this thread that mentioned having a bad experience with the new Testors clear is Al, so explain to me how this is bad info when the reviews in this thread are overwhelmingly positive? I don't mind you giving your opinion Dave, I don't even mind you giving it "enthusiastically" but don't put down the opinions of others, let alone call it bad info. I, as do most on this forum I'm sure have great respect for your building prowess and obviously your techniques work great for you and it's great that you are open and share them with others. However, your way isn't the only way, not even the only correct way, in fact it may not even be the best way for everybody so be please show some respect for the opinions of others.

David

No direspect but I agree with David also, one of my favorite clearcoats to use is Odds and Ends, 1.96 a can and never had any issues. I personally don't like to use the same stuff over and over again which is why I wanted to post the question about the Testor's lacquers. I know that everyone has a different way of doing things, I thank you guys for sharing that, it's just one of several more techniques to learn from.