Scott Colmer Posted November 8, 2009 Posted November 8, 2009 (edited) I am finishing up a plane project and decided I wanted an engine turned dash. After a little bit of experimenting and a trip to Youtube I came up with a simple tool that can be used to make a very nice engine turned surface. The samples here are part of the learning curve as I figured this out. The material is aluminum tape. The circles are made with a rod with cloth backed 1800 grit superglued to the end. The rod is twirled in the guide (tube) at the end of the arm on the platform. The trick is keeping it all straight. That requires marking and measurement. The lines on the tool platform are drawn on frisket so I can change them if I need. They guide the rows. The lines scribed into the tape (See un-cut sample in the pic.) are for the spacing of the circles in each row. The pin in the guide tube is to line up to the scribed lines on the tape. You go one row at a time then drop down to the next line on the frisket and do the next row. On every other row, you go in between the scribed lines. I can provide more detail is someone is interested. Scott Hosted on Fotki Edited November 8, 2009 by Scott Colmer
Pete J. Posted November 8, 2009 Posted November 8, 2009 I am finishing up a plane project and decided I wanted an engine turned dash. After a little bit of experimenting and a trip to Youtube I came up with a simple tool that can be used to make a very nice engine turned surface. The samples here are part of the learning curve as I figured this out. The material is aluminum tape. The circles are made with a rod with cloth backed 1800 grit superglued to the end. The rod is twirled in the guide (tube) at the end of the arm on the platform. The trick is keeping it all straight. That requires marking and measurement. The lines on the tool platform are drawn on frisket so I can change them if I need. They guide the rows. The lines scribed into the tape (See un-cut sample in the pic.) are for the spacing of the circles in each row. The pin in the guide tube is to line up to the scribed lines on the tape. You go one row at a time then drop down to the next line on the frisket and do the next row. On every other row, you go in between the scribed lines. I can provide more detail is someone is interested. Scott Hosted on Fotki WOW! Nice tool, nice result
randx0 Posted November 9, 2009 Posted November 9, 2009 By all means show some more pics I love this tip !
Fuel Coupe Posted November 9, 2009 Posted November 9, 2009 Scott, You are my hero. I have been wanting to do some engine turned stuff for a while but could'nt figure out how to go about it. THANKS!!!!!
Scott Colmer Posted November 12, 2009 Author Posted November 12, 2009 Glad you guys could use it. I will put together a full tutorial this weekend. Scott
Jim Keeler model cars Posted November 12, 2009 Posted November 12, 2009 I am finishing up a plane project and decided I wanted an engine turned dash. After a little bit of experimenting and a trip to Youtube I came up with a simple tool that can be used to make a very nice engine turned surface. The samples here are part of the learning curve as I figured this out. The material is aluminum tape. The circles are made with a rod with cloth backed 1800 grit superglued to the end. The rod is twirled in the guide (tube) at the end of the arm on the platform. The trick is keeping it all straight. That requires marking and measurement. The lines on the tool platform are drawn on frisket so I can change them if I need. They guide the rows. The lines scribed into the tape (See un-cut sample in the pic.) are for the spacing of the circles in each row. The pin in the guide tube is to line up to the scribed lines on the tape. You go one row at a time then drop down to the next line on the frisket and do the next row. On every other row, you go in between the scribed lines. I can provide more detail is someone is interested. Scott Hosted on Fotki
Jim Keeler model cars Posted November 12, 2009 Posted November 12, 2009 Hi, I have used a pencil eraser to do the same thing on aluminum foil or K7S metal. The pencil eraser works well and is more "in scale". Jim Keeler
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