2 tone, clogged rattle can and BMF

[slant6]

Ive got a few questions, so Ill stick em all in one post.

1. Im doing a 2 tone paint job, yellow and black. Should I do all my sanding and smoothing and what not before the second color or is there should I spray both colors and do it all at once? This is my first 2 tone paint job so any help would be greatly appreciated.

2. How do I best unclog the nozzle on a rattle can? Ive got a couple that are cloged but I know theres still paint in there.

3. Ive seen a bare metal foil tutorial, I thought it was on here. Can someone point me in the right direction? Im about to try that for the first time too.

Thanks in advance

Will

[Casey]

Ive got a few questions, so Ill stick em all in one post.

1. Im doing a 2 tone paint job, yellow and black. Should I do all my sanding and smoothing and what not before the second color or is there should I spray both colors and do it all at once? This is my first 2 tone paint job so any help would be greatly appreciated.

1) Wait until both colors are done to polish the paint, and in fact, I would suggest you apply a few clear coats over both colors, then polish the clear coat.

You can sand in between colors or after application of both colors if you need to reduce the "ridge" at the separation line, and this is where clear coats will help to even out the top surface, even if your two color coats are at slightly different "levels".

2) If you're asking about the end of the spray can into which the plastic spray tip fits, forget about it. Do not try to clean it out. BTDT, got lime green paint in my eye and all over my face- NOT WORTH IT. Seriously, toss it and get a new can.

3) My only tip for BMFing on a car or truck is to look at 1:1 pictures of the car and see where the molding joints are, if any. Many windshield moldings consist of four pieces and rear window moldings six pieces. If you can replicate the joints when you apply the BMF, you kill two birds with one stone.

I like to use Q-tips (not just cheap cotton swabs) for burnishing the foil down, and no matter what use a brand new X-acto knife blade, and change it often, as it will dull quickly. You want you cuts to be made completely through he foil the first time, and a sharp blade (and correct pressure) ensures that will happen.

[Edward Gore]

Ive got a few questions, so Ill stick em all in one post.

2. How do I best unclog the nozzle on a rattle can? Ive got a couple that are cloged but I know theres still paint in there.

Thanks in advance

Will

Are you talking about the "cap" aka "actuator" aka "regulator" aka "tip" aka "button" ?

http://www.daviddarling.info/images/aerosol_can.jpg item #4 ?

if so, this is how I do it. This also depends on the type of tip that you have clogged.

I'll use this style for example

separate the pattern tip from the regulator

now check each part for obvious material debris inside each part

Then soak in oven cleaner or your favorite model kit paint stripper over night or longer. Agitate occasionally and at will

Rinse off with warm water

Re assemble and replace onto aerosol can and try it

always wear the proper protection during this servicing activity

[diymirage]

i have a slowly growing stash of those nozzles in my tool drawer

because every time i empty out a can with a good nozzle i save the nozzle and toss the can

that way, when a nozzle does clog up i have a replacement ready

[slant6]

Are you talking about the "cap" aka "actuator" aka "regulator" aka "tip" aka "button" ?

http://www.daviddarling.info/images/aerosol_can.jpg item #4 ?

if so, this is how I do it. This also depends on the type of tip that you have clogged.

I'll use this style for example

separate the pattern tip from the regulator

now check each part for obvious material debris inside each part

Then soak in oven cleaner or your favorite model kit paint stripper over night or longer. Agitate occasionally and at will

Rinse off with warm water

Re assemble and replace onto aerosol can and try it

always wear the proper protection during this servicing activity

I am talking about the "button" they always seem to clog up real quick if you dont use the whole can real quick. That seems like alot of work though. I never thought of saving the old ones. Wont the paint from the last color come through in the new color though?

[slant6]

I appreciate the quick replys (all will come in handy), but, Im looking for a "pictorial", I know Ive seen it. On the other hand I really do appreciate any help, so keep it comin'.

[slant6]

One tip I can give you on using spray cans is that as soon as you are done painting with it,pull it off and put it in brush cleaner. You'll never have another clogged nozzle again. Just remember to do a test spray when you put it back on to make sure the cleaner is out.

Thats a good idea, I got extra brush cleaner. I was thinkin, of dropin the "nozzle" in the brake fluid tha I have some old parts soaking in right now, you think that'll work?

[Smart-Resins]

Good tip here, keep a small jar around with your favorite cleaner and when you are done spraying with the can, take the nozzle off and soak it. When done soaking, put back on the can when your ready for paint. If you do get one that wont spray, make sure you have extras from old emptied out cans so you can keep going. Thanks. Jody

[Thom]

Soaking can still leave residue inside the nozzle. Get a can of carb cleaner or brake clean and stick the red tube thingy in the end of the nozzle that goes down in the can. Hold it tight and give it a shot of cleaner, cleans them right out.

Thom

[weasel]

couple things...

i just soak a 'clogged' nozzle in lacquer thinner and take a blade and clear the 'slit' in the tube at the bottom of the nozzle..also, did you know that the different colors of nozzles 'flow' a different rate?? primer, color, clear...and for 2 tones, i always use the lighter color 1st...

something i've done to make it easy to 'de-cant' paint for an airbrush is almost like Ed was doing, i drill out the 'button' to accept those red straws from most brake cleaner/carb cleaner cans, epoxy it to the nozzle and spray into a jar, easier and cleaner than poking a hole in the bottom of the can...

Edited February 3, 2010 by weasel

[Smart-Resins]

For decanting, I turn to my friend, Gonzo! Now I know many of you out there know Gonzo! LOL. Hes so cool, I had to invite him over to my house to stay for good! HEHEHEHE. Here he is!

What I did was I removed the pray nozzle within the button and then just inserted the Aluminum tube and epoxied it. I then bent it so I would not have to hold the can at irregular angles. This way, I can get more out of the can. Also by making it flow in a curve, it does not shoot out, it just sprays out lightly, making even less mess. So I love my friend Gonzo! Jody

[weasel]

i use only 'virgin' straws...just swipe them off the cans!!! i work/worked in a parts dept...

[Wayne Buck]

For decanting, I turn to my friend, Gonzo! Now I know many of you out there know Gonzo! LOL. Hes so cool, I had to invite him over to my house to stay for good! HEHEHEHE. Here he is!

What I did was I removed the pray nozzle within the button and then just inserted the Aluminum tube and epoxied it. I then bent it so I would not have to hold the can at irregular angles. This way, I can get more out of the can. Also by making it flow in a curve, it does not shoot out, it just sprays out lightly, making even less mess. So I love my friend Gonzo! Jody

All the girls in school used to call one of my old friends "gonzo". Poor guy had a horribly crooked....um.......... nevermind.

Thanks for the idea, Jody, I'll have to try that.

I always end up making a mess when decanting paint.

[MikeMc]

The EASIEST way is to not clean them at all. If you turn the can upside down and spray out you do not need to clean them at all!!

Oh thats what the directions said...........

Edited February 4, 2010 by MikeMc

[Smart-Resins]

That is good, however in my experience, wich may vary either by manufacturer or by person, is when I have done that, when I have ran out of propellent, I still had paint left over! Notmuch, but with my lack of income, every bit matters. again this may vary either by manufacturer or by person. Thanks. Jody

[Nick Winter]

i have a slowly growing stash of those nozzles in my tool drawer

because every time i empty out a can with a good nozzle i save the nozzle and toss the can

that way, when a nozzle does clog up i have a replacement ready

I do the same Eelco.

[slant6]

I always try flipping the can over and spraying like the directions say (yeah, I read em one time). It always seems that it only unclogs it for a very short period of time. However, I thought of it last night while struggling with a clogged can and jsut turned it upside down while painting, it worked, but it was very difficult to aim the spray.

[slant6]

I always try flipping the can over and spraying like the directions say (yeah, I read em one time). It always seems that it only unclogs it for a very short period of time. However, I thought of it last night while struggling with a clogged can and jsut turned it upside down while painting, it worked, but it was very difficult to aim the spray.

[Ddms]

Well, you've probably thrown all those old spray cans away by now - or used some other method to clean them - but here's what works for me.

Couldn't be simpler:

1. Scrape all paint off the flat nozzle surface.

2. Soak the nozzle in lacquer thinner overnight. If you can't get it off the can, just prop the can upside down with the nozzle in the thinner.

3. The next day, scrub the nozzle with a toothbrush and solvent. Or detergent. Protect your eyes when you do this.

4. If you have gotten the nozzle off the can: Using canned air with one of those long red tubes attached, stick the long tube into the nozzle entry hole and give it a blow job. If you haven't gotten the nozzle off, just do your best. By this time, the nozzle is most likely clean anyway.

Edited February 10, 2010 by Ddms

[cruz]

Nice tutorial on Bare Metal Foil application!!

http://italianhorses.net/Tutorials/BareMetalFoil/bmf.htm

[slant6]

OK, I checked out the tutorial and tried over and over again. First problem, I cant get a big enough piece off of the sheet without it ripping. The sheet I have is sort of...."cracked" should the sheet be smooth, did I get a bad sheet? Second, even when I do get a piece big enough off, say for the small spots, even using a brand new razor blade, I keep ripping it, especially around the corners. Any more help would be greatly appreciated.