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Posted

In the attached picture you'll see a silver flex tube arching over the valve cover and extending up to the bottom side of the air cleaner snorkel. In real life, this piece is about 2" in diameter. The MPC kit I'm using has a piece that's meant to depict this, but besides being too thin, it looks more like a chromed tube and nothing like a flex-hose. Yes, I'm aware that the "flex" part might be hard to depict in scale, but I gotta try.

Enlighten me!

Posted

Monty, I guess I would get myself to a Michiaels art store . I suggest them cause I'm sure that within the Costume jewelery sections , you might find such a piece to " Dupe " such a piece . Ed Shaver

Posted

Monty, that's the heat riser tube comin off the Choke stove on the exhast manifold. the only thing I can think of is to open up an OLD slot motor, or any small motor, and pull the armature wire outta it. Wrap that wire around your plastic peice, and then wrap it in BMF. It'd give ya that Flex look that yer lookin for. Sorry but that's the best I can come up with. I HOPE it helps.biggrin.gifwink.gif

Posted

The Ram Air tubes from the MPC/Ertl '60 Olds 442 kit would work well, since they are already ribbed and close to the same diameter (maybe 1/2" too large), but they are pre-molded, so you'd need to carefully heat and bend as needed.

Posted

Monty, Could you bend a piece of #2-56 threaded rod (or a cut off bolt), then wrap it in foil?

Another idea: Bend a piece of wire to the shape you want, then wrap it with thin (~26 gauge)craft wire. Hit it with a drop of thin CA glue to hold it together, and foil it.

Sam

Posted (edited)

Just brainstorming here: Small-diameter solder or soft aluminum rod(NOT tubing) bent to shape first....then wrapped in wire, BMF then DullCote perhaps?

Edited by VW Dave
Posted

A spring slipped over a solder core and glued to secure it, bent to shape. Drop on some decal film - anything would do - and microsol that to conform to fill any gaps. You might need to spiral wrap the decal around it if the bend is radical but it should work. Then prime it and alclad to suit. That should give you something fairly realistic, it's getting close to the construction of the real thing if not the method. Just an idea, never tried it but I can't see how it wouldn't work. Or just grab a piece of bass string.

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