The Quinton-Joehnck '32 Ford Coupe

[curt raitz]

I came across this car in the June 2010 Rod & Custom Magazine.

This looked like a fun car to build a model of, plus building it would satisfy two pending model building tasks at hand...a club build based on the Revell 32 Fords and the Replica Theme for next years NNL West

Jack Quinton and Bob Joehnck raced this car in the RTA (Russetta Timing Association) from 1951 thru 1962. Mostly racing at El Mirage and Bonneville, but occasionally showing up at local dragstrips throughout Southern California. They finished the 1952 season as the overall points leader.

The car started racing powered by a Mercury Flathead, but went on to be powered by a Hemi, and finally a blown Olds.

Jack Quinton with restored car and trophies won

Bob Joehnck with restored car

A few pictures of restored car:

Biggest obstacle to building is finding a quick change rear end, 4-carb manifold for a flathead and suspension components.

Was able to locate a quick change rear end and suspension goodies in the good ol' parts box

Looked to Norm @ Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland to provide the extra goodies...

Now on to parts findin and playin' with plastic & resin

thanx for lookin'

[Brett Barrow]

This is the #1 Deuce on my Things-to-Build-Before-I-Die List.

I'll be watching this one!

[Bernard Kron]

Too cool!!! You just know I'll be watchin'...

[curt raitz]

An update, but not really...All the parts from Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland have arrived - tires & wheels, Stromberg carbs, headers, etc

was not able to find a 4-carb manifold, so built my own and made a few resin casts of it

here it is with other engine parts and a manual tranny slapped on the rear of the flathead:

First order of business was chopping the top...fun, heh

marked and ready for the saw:

chopped and roof lengthened:

roof re-united with the body:

hole in roof done:

thanx for lookin'

[Bernard Kron]

So lemme see now, your first post was at 9:33 PM, your first update at 9:52 and you've got a resin 4-carb manifold fabbed and cast, the top chopped and the engine half built. Allowing for paint drying time you should have this thing wrapped up sometime tomorrow evening, right?

Edited July 27, 2010 by gbk1

[Geezerman]

Sweet lookin 1:1

Nice start on the model.

[Crazy Ed]

So lemme see now, your first post was at 9:33 PM, your first update at 9:52 and you've got a resin 4-carb manifold fabbed and cast, the top chopped and the engine half built. Allowing for paint drying time you should have this thing rapped up sometime tomorrow evening, right?

Not to mention the 19 min. delivery time from Norm of R&M of Maryland

Ed

[curt raitz]

So lemme see now, your first post was at 9:33 PM, your first update at 9:52 and you've got a resin 4-carb manifold fabbed and cast, the top chopped and the engine half built. Allowing for paint drying time you should have this thing rapped up sometime tomorrow evening, right?

That's right...

no silly I ain't that fast,

but you can only post 9 - 10 photos for each post...so i had to do the whole thing in two posts...

[Bernard Kron]

The more I look at this the more I realize what an ideal subject for a 1/25 scale model this is. The matte light gray finish on the undercarriage and interior contrasted with the glossy blue body paint and the simple but eye-catching details like the seat, roll bar, tank and the plywood panel in the floor will really pop in scale. Can't wait to see more.

[Raul_Perez]

So lemme see now, your first post was at 9:33 PM, your first update at 9:52 and you've got a resin 4-carb manifold fabbed and cast, the top chopped and the engine half built. Allowing for paint drying time you should have this thing wrapped up sometime tomorrow evening, right?

That's right...

no silly I ain't that fast,

but you can only post 9 - 10 photos for each post...so i had to do the whole thing in two posts...

Elves!! Lots of elves!! It's the only answer that makes any sense!!

Looking good, Curt!!

[noname]

This is certaily a neat subject. At first I thought that was a contemporary car seeing how it was soo clean and pretty. The fact that it has history going back to 50' and 60's really makes it for me. You have great reference photos, any period photos of thing nice and dirty?

[curt raitz]

This is certaily a neat subject. At first I thought that was a contemporary car seeing how it was soo clean and pretty. The fact that it has history going back to 50' and 60's really makes it for me. You have great reference photos, any period photos of thing nice and dirty?

Yeah, I got a couple of photos...

They raced it in various colors, engines, etc

The Rodriguez restoration tried to capture some of the best qualities of the car, the flathead, chopped top and color choice

[pharr7226]

Man, this is gonna be good. Can't wait to see more.

[noname]

Those photos look like they were from drag racing. I wonder if there are some where it raced at Boneville and partly covered with salt? Your doing the clean version like your opening photos I take it? Either way, it's a real nice car.

[Dragline]

I'll be watching this one Curt. Gorgeous color and restored car.

Bob

[curt raitz]

Those photos look like they were from drag racing. I wonder if there are some where it raced at Boneville and partly covered with salt? Your doing the clean version like your opening photos I take it? Either way, it's a real nice car.

Only photos I could find from a quick search on the internet.

Yes, I will be building a model of the restored car

[Len Geisler]

Curt,

Loving this build. This is something I have wanted to do also, build a detailed replica of a "1:1", but have not found one I wanted to put the effort into, you my firend have made a GREAT choice.

I would check with Norm again, as I think he also does a quick change rear end, I think I may even ahve one or two at home.

[Peter Lombardo]

Curt, I love your idea of building this racer. Just a great looking classic spartan race car. You will do your usually purfect rendition of it I'm sure. My only surprise here is that it is not done yet.

[CrewDawg15]

Beautiful build subject. I'm glad you decided on the Flatty...IMO, the only motor fit for a Deuce

[curt raitz]

Curt, I love your idea of building this racer. Just a great looking classic spartan race car. You will do your usually purfect rendition of it I'm sure. My only surprise here is that it is not done yet.

Peter, I'm taking a little longer than usual on this model...having fun building it and want the enjoyment to last

trying to figure out the best way to do the lettering, not a very common font and it's white - not an easy decal to do. might have to enlist the aid of my buddy Steve with the Alps printer

plus - some guy sent me this vacuum formed car to build...working on ideas for that one also

[Bernard Kron]

...trying to figure out the best way to do the lettering, not a very common font and it's white - not an easy decal to do. might have to enlist the aid of my buddy Steve with the Alps printer ...

Curt,

I recently did borderless, plain white numbers for my Pre-War '29 Lakes car. I have an inkjet printer and the method I used was to flip the numbers horizontally so they made a mirror image, then print them on the back of some white decal stock and cut them out. If you're a real glutton for punishment you can use that method (your numbers are very thin) or have your friend with the Alps print white on clear.

The font is almost certainly Century Gothic, although the letter "C" is slightly different than the version I have. Other substitutions are Myriad Pro (virtually identical) and Eras Medium ITC (pretty darn close). I'm sure there are others, too, since Century Gothic is an extremely common font. I'd be surprised you don't have it on your computer. If you want me to do the art for you just shoot me a PM. I can scale them from your pictures or you could send me the edge dimension of the area you want them in. Here's an example of the Century Gothic I have.

B.

[curt raitz]

Curt,

I recently did borderless, plain white numbers for my Pre-War '29 Lakes car. I have an inkjet printer and the method I used was to flip the numbers horizontally so they made a mirror image, then print them on the back of some white decal stock and cut them out. If you're a real glutton for punishment you can use that method (your numbers are very thin) or have your friend with the Alps print white on clear.

The font is almost certainly Century Gothic, although the letter "C" is slightly different than the version I have. Other substitutions are Myriad Pro (virtually identical) and Eras Medium ITC (pretty darn close). I'm sure there are others, too, since Century Gothic is an extremely common font. I'd be surprised you don't have it on your computer. If you want me to do the art for you just shoot me a PM. I can scale them from your pictures or you could send me the edge dimension of the area you want them in. Here's an example of the Century Gothic I have.

B.

Thanx Bernard...I have not tried the flippin' it over and printin' on the backside, may have it's merit someday

I'm glad the font is a fairly common one, does make life a little easier

I was thinkin' of printin' on white decal paper using a thin border (the same color of the car that I can print) around each character.

I've done this before, still requires delicate trimmin'

Of course there's Steve with his Alps...I don't like tying him up for a one off, plus the white ribbons are getting hard to find and expensive

[curt raitz]

Got a little bit of work done...stuff assembled and primered

still have a lot of clean up and detailing before I can throw the paint on...

Front and rear suspensions:

Chopped windscreen frame, dash and scratchbuilt door panels:

Body gettin' closer to color...

And a few things have ended up with some color on them:

Engine starting to come together...just gotta dig out all the little wires, etc to make it come alive...

Thanx for lookin'

[Bernard Kron]

Curt,

The chassis work is stunning, so straight and clean, ditto the door panels. Yum, yum...

Re: the numbers. The color matched outline will work and probably is a better way to go with these very thin characters since it would result in a slightly thicker font. I considered it but I didn't want to risk a non-match on the outline and so chose the backwards-on-the-back approach. The result is extremely realistic, but I went through more than a dozen "7" decals to get one down properly because the top part wanted to tear or curl over on itself. Multiple tries were only feasible because I was printing my own decals. Anything you can do to broaden the character will help. The major advantage of a clear background is that you pre-position the characters in relation to each other in addition to getting a large stable decal to lay down.

B.

[curt raitz]

finished scratch-building the seat, roll cage and fuel tank...

door panels finished...

seat painted and seatbelt added, ready for mounting to the chassis...

thanx for lookin'