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The Quinton-Joehnck '32 Ford Coupe


curt raitz

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I came across this car in the June 2010 Rod & Custom Magazine.

This looked like a fun car to build a model of, plus building it would satisfy two pending model building tasks at hand...a club build based on the Revell 32 Fords and the Replica Theme for next years NNL West

Jack Quinton and Bob Joehnck raced this car in the RTA (Russetta Timing Association) from 1951 thru 1962. Mostly racing at El Mirage and Bonneville, but occasionally showing up at local dragstrips throughout Southern California. They finished the 1952 season as the overall points leader.

The car started racing powered by a Mercury Flathead, but went on to be powered by a Hemi, and finally a blown Olds.

trophies_020_17191735-vi.jpg

Jack Quinton with restored car and trophies won

trophiesbob1_17191133-vi.jpg

Bob Joehnck with restored car

A few pictures of restored car:

_DSC6481_copy_17184618-vi.jpg

32rudyinside_184152726-vi.jpg

rudy32side_17184041-vi.jpg

paulsengine_17183739-vi.jpg

rudy32rear3quarter_17183915-vi.jpg

Biggest obstacle to building is finding a quick change rear end, 4-carb manifold for a flathead and suspension components.

Was able to locate a quick change rear end and suspension goodies in the good ol' parts box

Looked to Norm @ Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland to provide the extra goodies...

Now on to parts findin and playin' with plastic & resin

thanx for lookin' cool.gif

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An update, but not really...All the parts from Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland have arrived - tires & wheels, Stromberg carbs, headers, etc

T10-vi.jpg

P72-vi.jpg

DD20-vi.jpg

RH906-vi.jpg

was not able to find a 4-carb manifold, so built my own and made a few resin casts of it

here it is with other engine parts and a manual tranny slapped on the rear of the flathead:

QJ32Ford_bc-vi.jpg

First order of business was chopping the top...fun, heh

marked and ready for the saw:

QJ32Ford_aa-vi.jpg

chopped and roof lengthened:

QJ32Ford_ab-vi.jpg

roof re-united with the body:

QJ32Ford_ba-vi.jpg

hole in roof done:

QJ32Ford_bb-vi.jpg

thanx for lookin' cool.gif

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So lemme see now, your first post was at 9:33 PM, your first update at 9:52 and you've got a resin 4-carb manifold fabbed and cast, the top chopped and the engine half built. Allowing for paint drying time you should have this thing wrapped up sometime tomorrow evening, right?wink.gifbiggrin.gif

Edited by gbk1
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So lemme see now, your first post was at 9:33 PM, your first update at 9:52 and you've got a resin 4-carb manifold fabbed and cast, the top chopped and the engine half built. Allowing for paint drying time you should have this thing rapped up sometime tomorrow evening, right?wink.gifbiggrin.gif

Not to mention the 19 min. delivery time from Norm of R&M of Maryland :D

Ed

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So lemme see now, your first post was at 9:33 PM, your first update at 9:52 and you've got a resin 4-carb manifold fabbed and cast, the top chopped and the engine half built. Allowing for paint drying time you should have this thing rapped up sometime tomorrow evening, right?wink.gifbiggrin.gif

That's right...

no silly I ain't that fast,

but you can only post 9 - 10 photos for each post...so i had to do the whole thing in two posts...

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The more I look at this the more I realize what an ideal subject for a 1/25 scale model this is. The matte light gray finish on the undercarriage and interior contrasted with the glossy blue body paint and the simple but eye-catching details like the seat, roll bar, tank and the plywood panel in the floor will really pop in scale. Can't wait to see more.

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So lemme see now, your first post was at 9:33 PM, your first update at 9:52 and you've got a resin 4-carb manifold fabbed and cast, the top chopped and the engine half built. Allowing for paint drying time you should have this thing wrapped up sometime tomorrow evening, right?wink.gifbiggrin.gif

That's right...

no silly I ain't that fast,

but you can only post 9 - 10 photos for each post...so i had to do the whole thing in two posts...

Elves!! Lots of elves!! It's the only answer that makes any sense!!

Looking good, Curt!!

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This is certaily a neat subject. At first I thought that was a contemporary car seeing how it was soo clean and pretty. The fact that it has history going back to 50' and 60's really makes it for me. You have great reference photos, any period photos of thing nice and dirty?

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This is certaily a neat subject. At first I thought that was a contemporary car seeing how it was soo clean and pretty. The fact that it has history going back to 50' and 60's really makes it for me. You have great reference photos, any period photos of thing nice and dirty?

Yeah, I got a couple of photos...

goletadrags_17192500-vi.jpg

joehnckcpe2_17192721-vi.jpg

They raced it in various colors, engines, etc

The Rodriguez restoration tried to capture some of the best qualities of the car, the flathead, chopped top and color choice

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Those photos look like they were from drag racing. I wonder if there are some where it raced at Boneville and partly covered with salt? Your doing the clean version like your opening photos I take it? Either way, it's a real nice car.

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Those photos look like they were from drag racing. I wonder if there are some where it raced at Boneville and partly covered with salt? Your doing the clean version like your opening photos I take it? Either way, it's a real nice car.

Only photos I could find from a quick search on the internet.

Yes, I will be building a model of the restored car

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Curt,

Loving this build. This is something I have wanted to do also, build a detailed replica of a "1:1", but have not found one I wanted to put the effort into, you my firend have made a GREAT choice.

I would check with Norm again, as I think he also does a quick change rear end, I think I may even ahve one or two at home.

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Curt, I love your idea of building this racer. Just a great looking classic spartan race car. You will do your usually purfect rendition of it I'm sure. My only surprise here is that it is not done yet.

Peter, I'm taking a little longer than usual on this model...having fun building it and want the enjoyment to last

trying to figure out the best way to do the lettering, not a very common font and it's white - not an easy decal to do. might have to enlist the aid of my buddy Steve with the Alps printer

plus - some guy sent me this vacuum formed car to build...working on ideas for that one also

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...trying to figure out the best way to do the lettering, not a very common font and it's white - not an easy decal to do. might have to enlist the aid of my buddy Steve with the Alps printer ...

Curt,

I recently did borderless, plain white numbers for my Pre-War '29 Lakes car. I have an inkjet printer and the method I used was to flip the numbers horizontally so they made a mirror image, then print them on the back of some white decal stock and cut them out. If you're a real glutton for punishment you can use that method (your numbers are very thin) or have your friend with the Alps print white on clear.

The font is almost certainly Century Gothic, although the letter "C" is slightly different than the version I have. Other substitutions are Myriad Pro (virtually identical) and Eras Medium ITC (pretty darn close). I'm sure there are others, too, since Century Gothic is an extremely common font. I'd be surprised you don't have it on your computer. If you want me to do the art for you just shoot me a PM. I can scale them from your pictures or you could send me the edge dimension of the area you want them in. Here's an example of the Century Gothic I have.

Quentin-Joehck-Number.jpg

B.

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Curt,

I recently did borderless, plain white numbers for my Pre-War '29 Lakes car. I have an inkjet printer and the method I used was to flip the numbers horizontally so they made a mirror image, then print them on the back of some white decal stock and cut them out. If you're a real glutton for punishment you can use that method (your numbers are very thin) or have your friend with the Alps print white on clear.

The font is almost certainly Century Gothic, although the letter "C" is slightly different than the version I have. Other substitutions are Myriad Pro (virtually identical) and Eras Medium ITC (pretty darn close). I'm sure there are others, too, since Century Gothic is an extremely common font. I'd be surprised you don't have it on your computer. If you want me to do the art for you just shoot me a PM. I can scale them from your pictures or you could send me the edge dimension of the area you want them in. Here's an example of the Century Gothic I have.

Quentin-Joehck-Number.jpg

B.

Thanx Bernard...I have not tried the flippin' it over and printin' on the backside, may have it's merit someday

I'm glad the font is a fairly common one, does make life a little easier

I was thinkin' of printin' on white decal paper using a thin border (the same color of the car that I can print) around each character.

I've done this before, still requires delicate trimmin'

Of course there's Steve with his Alps...I don't like tying him up for a one off, plus the white ribbons are getting hard to find and expensive

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Got a little bit of work done...stuff assembled and primered

still have a lot of clean up and detailing before I can throw the paint on...

QJ32Ford_cc-vi.jpg

QJ32Ford_ch-vi.jpg

Front and rear suspensions:

QJ32Ford_cd-vi.jpg

Chopped windscreen frame, dash and scratchbuilt door panels:

QJ32Ford_ce-vi.jpg

Body gettin' closer to color...

QJ32Ford_cb-vi.jpg

QJ32Ford_ca-vi.jpg

And a few things have ended up with some color on them:

QJ32Ford_cg-vi.jpg

Engine starting to come together...just gotta dig out all the little wires, etc to make it come alive...

QJ32Ford_cf-vi.jpg

Thanx for lookin' cool.gif

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Curt,

The chassis work is stunning, so straight and clean, ditto the door panels. Yum, yum...cool.gifsmile.gif

Re: the numbers. The color matched outline will work and probably is a better way to go with these very thin characters since it would result in a slightly thicker font. I considered it but I didn't want to risk a non-match on the outline and so chose the backwards-on-the-back approach. The result is extremely realistic, but I went through more than a dozen "7" decals to get one down properly because the top part wanted to tear or curl over on itself. Multiple tries were only feasible because I was printing my own decals. Anything you can do to broaden the character will help. The major advantage of a clear background is that you pre-position the characters in relation to each other in addition to getting a large stable decal to lay down.

B.

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