Dave Wood Posted June 1, 2011 Posted June 1, 2011 I've been looking for one of these kits for a long time. the red plastic works for me as well as the satin chrome that they came with, just have to get my hands on one keep us posted what have you got for Trade?
W-409 Posted June 13, 2011 Author Posted June 13, 2011 I decided to leave the body without clear, the shine is ok to me after the paint, so I put decals on. Hood needs still painting. Decals did fit quite well, but there are still few places, where I must add some white paint. Then the body looks good. I also glued engine to the frame. Fits fine, but I did shorten the propeller shaft, because otherwise engine couldn't fit to its place. Also some interior work. I added seats, handbrake handle and shifter and some other parts. Seatbelts are Scale Dreams' stuff and belt buckles are from Model Car Garage (MCG). I added also the spinners... Some black wash to the panel lines. Thanx for looking, comments are always welcome.
Romell R Posted June 13, 2011 Posted June 13, 2011 You have and excellent strat on this project keep up the good work.
Ron a.k.a. Grouchy Pants Posted June 13, 2011 Posted June 13, 2011 You have and excellent strat on this project keep up the good work. Absolutely, second that...
W-409 Posted June 14, 2011 Author Posted June 14, 2011 Thanks, Romell and Ron! I need now some flat black spray paint for that convertible top, which I'll be using. Interior cauges... I will print them out tomorrow, but I will put some smaller things now, like brake lines and that kind of stuff... Where is the battery located in original Cobra? In the trunk, or engine bay...?
slantasaurus Posted June 14, 2011 Posted June 14, 2011 Very nice looking build Niko. I love all of these Monogram Cobra kits. The battery would be in the trunk.
Cato Posted June 14, 2011 Posted June 14, 2011 Very nice looking build Niko. I love all of these Monogram Cobra kits. The battery would be in the trunk. Wrong. On street 427's-in front of the passenger side footbox. On competition cars, 2 Rebat 6 volts behind the passenger seat.
W-409 Posted June 15, 2011 Author Posted June 15, 2011 Thanx, both! If I remember correctly, this kit doesn't have a battery, so I must take one from my spares box... Thanx for the info. I have started adding brake lines, but they are still under construction, I can't finish them until I have the brake master cylinder fitted to the car, and that means, that I must put the body on before I can finish those brake lines... But if I remember correctly, I have one photo etch set of battery decals, and some battery cable, so I can make that battery look good.
W-409 Posted June 15, 2011 Author Posted June 15, 2011 (edited) Wrong. On street 427's-in front of the passenger side footbox. On competition cars, 2 Rebat 6 volts behind the passenger seat. Äh.... I didn't get 100% what you meant. So is the battery in the interior, where the passenger keeps his/her foot? Or in the engine bay? I have one battery under construction, but if it is in the interior, then I don't add so much detail to it, because no one can see it. Edited July 26, 2011 by W-409
Cato Posted June 15, 2011 Posted June 15, 2011 Öh.... I didn't get 100% what you meant. So is the battery in the interior, where the passenger keeps his/her foot? Or in the engine bay? I have one battery under construction, but if it is in the interior, then I don't add so much detail to it, because no one can see it. Just what I wrote. Are you building a street or comp Cobra? Comp cars batteries are BEHIND the passenger seat, in front of the bulkhead. Look up Rebat batteries-they are 6 volt and long and slender. Street cars have regular batteries above the headers, in FRONT of the passenger footbox.
sjordan2 Posted June 15, 2011 Posted June 15, 2011 (edited) For a crazy amount of detailed, large-scale reference, check this out... http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/large-scale-cars/12933-test-driving-tdr-427-roadster.html Here's where it goes in their 427 test kit Also, here's an interesting thread where someone building the Monogram model (our fellow member Darin Bastedo!) is asking questions of experienced Cobra guys.. http://saacforum.com/index.php?topic=881.0 Edited June 15, 2011 by sjordan2
XJ6 Posted June 15, 2011 Posted June 15, 2011 I would like to ask..how did you paint the White Wall Lettering...This looks good..Thanks
Cato Posted June 15, 2011 Posted June 15, 2011 (edited) For a crazy amount of detailed, large-scale reference, check this out... Here's where it goes in their 427 test kit. There are numerous things wrong with that kit. The battery is higher on a shelf, attached to the front of the footbox on street cars with cast iron head pipes. Cars with tubular headers need the space under the battery, else you could not service the battery. The Wimboldon White footboxes are fiberglass, not tin and they don't have folded edges. The canisters for brake (2) and clutch are mounted on the driver inner fenderpanel and were black steel with steel hard lines running to their systems. Not white plastic mounted on the footbox. The brake master cylinders are under the footbox, in a steel brake box that contains the balance bar and pistons and lines. The foot pedals pivot on the balance bar inside the cockpit. The radiator has an upper attachment pin and tab mounted to he hood opening tube on the chassis and a hitch pin and vibration rubber between. Don't offer this model as a "scale" reference. Edited June 15, 2011 by Cato
sjordan2 Posted June 15, 2011 Posted June 15, 2011 (edited) There are numerous things wrong with that kit. The battery is higher on a shelf, attached to the front of the footbox on street cars with cast iron head pipes. Cars with tubular headers need the space under the battery, else you could not service the battery. The Wimboldon White footboxes are fiberglass, not tin and they don't have folded edges. The canisters for brake (2) and clutch are mounted on the driver inner fenderpanel and were black steel with steel hard lines running to their systems. Not white plastic mounted on the footbox. The brake master cylinders are under the footbox, in a steel brake box that contains the balance bar and pistons and lines. The foot pedals pivot on the balance bar inside the cockpit. The radiator has an upper attachment pin and tab mounted to he hood opening tube on the chassis and a hitch pin and vibration rubber between. Don't offer this model as a "scale" reference. My bad. Just trying to help with the reference I could dig up. I might add that I added a link to a list of differences between the competition and street versions that you mentioned, as described by Cobra experts. You might send your thoughts to TDR before they screw up the creation of a very expensive kit in that's in progress. If you have better visual reference that you could post here for the OP, that could be helpful. Edited June 15, 2011 by sjordan2
Cato Posted June 15, 2011 Posted June 15, 2011 You might send your thoughts to TDR before they screw up the creation of a very expensive kit in that's in progress. If you have better visual reference that you could post here for the OP, that could be helpful. Skip, I have tried helping by posting advice and numerous pics of my 1:1, its engine and chassis and original CSX's but sadly, few builders get it right anyway. There seems to be a rush to open the box and put snazzy paint and white stripes on it immediately and then realize whole thicknesses and contours are wrong. TDR has undertaken a huge task and in large part, accomplished it well. Its complexity will not make it 'cost desirable' to a large part of this and other forums in my view-despite the 'buy a little at a time' marketing. Guys here gripe at spending over $30 on anything. Marketing it on 1:1 Cobra sites proved ineffective because there are few model builders among those guys but the capital is there. When Rick was at TDR, he and I discussed a Cobra project for them and he was aware of my credentials and experience. He subsequently left TDR and Garrett apparently decided Syd was more qualified to R & D a Cobra than a 1:1 Cobra builder. BTW, their steering wheel is one which Tim modeled after I sent him snaps of mine. As a librarian of extensive research on classics and sports cars, you know the value of comprehensive research. My experience on model forums is that when it comes to Cobras, 'stand-off scale' is good enough-few have even the basic understanding of the car. At least Bastedo 'gets it' and went to an excellent original source.
sjordan2 Posted June 15, 2011 Posted June 15, 2011 I get it. I've also felt disappointed in the reaction of modelers who want lots of information on the Mercedes Gullwing – and I've got massive reference on that – but don't really take advantage of it. But I'm always happy to share it with people who have a real interest and not just a casual one, and who might build one someday. Or not.
Cato Posted June 15, 2011 Posted June 15, 2011 I've also felt disappointed in the reaction of modelers who want lots of information on the Mercedes Gullwing – and I've got massive reference on that – but don't really take advantage of it. I'd really like you to post a few of your well-researched builds. Starting with the 1/16 Gullwings...
sjordan2 Posted June 15, 2011 Posted June 15, 2011 I'd really like you to post a few of your well-researched builds. Starting with the 1/16 Gullwings... :D :D I'm a lot better at researching than building. You know the old saying, "Those who can't do, teach."
Harry P. Posted June 15, 2011 Posted June 15, 2011 Not only is Skip a good researcher, he will go to great lengths to help out a fellow modeler. Some time ago I was working on a Pocher RR. Skip mailed me an original RR owner's manual to help me out. The illustrations and information in that book were invaluable in helping me detail the model (which, for the record, I still have not finished! ) Obviously I mailed the book back to Skip when I was finished with it... but that illustrates just how far he will go to help a fellow modeler.
Cato Posted June 15, 2011 Posted June 15, 2011 Not only is Skip a good researcher, he will go to great lengths to help out a fellow modeler. Some time ago I was working on a Pocher RR. Skip mailed me an original RR owner's manual to help me out. The illustrations and information in that book were invaluable in helping me detail the model (which, for the record, I still have not finished! ) That's a really classy thing to do. I'm sure Skip has something to post which would make him proud and teach us some tricks. -AND you Mr. P. still need to post some Giant Benz pics which you promised. There's no snow in Chi-Town now... Posting that RR would make Skip proud of his contribution...
sjordan2 Posted June 15, 2011 Posted June 15, 2011 (edited) Not only is Skip a good researcher, he will go to great lengths to help out a fellow modeler. Some time ago I was working on a Pocher RR. Skip mailed me an original RR owner's manual to help me out. The illustrations and information in that book were invaluable in helping me detail the model (which, for the record, I still have not finished! ) Obviously I mailed the book back to Skip when I was finished with it... but that illustrates just how far he will go to help a fellow modeler. Harry also scanned the entire book for me and posterity. As far as I know, it's the only digital file on the Phantom II owner's manual in existence. Edited June 15, 2011 by sjordan2
W-409 Posted June 16, 2011 Author Posted June 16, 2011 So, I'm building the Street version, and now I finally understood, where the battery actually is. White wall lettering is painted with a really small brush using Revell gloss white. It works fine, and doesn't go off from the tire, even if many people say that Revell enamel paints are bad and you can't paint a tire with them... I've never had any problems with that. Thank you for the info and reference, now I must get back to Cobra...
W-409 Posted June 16, 2011 Author Posted June 16, 2011 Detailing the battery... Well, I installed it just to the firewall, it's now there and it will stay there. First picture shows that I'm using Detail Master's Battery hardware set, which includes some photoetched parts to detail the battery. Also some battery cable from Scale Dreams, but I must glue them next to the starter, and frame. I can add them to the battery when body and interior are installed to the chassis. Before detailing the battery, I glued a bottom piece to the battery, because there was a great hole. Paint, few photoetch parts, and some detail painting, installing the battery and now it's done. Next step is to continue building the brake lines...
W-409 Posted June 17, 2011 Author Posted June 17, 2011 A little update to this project. I built the interior ready. First I painted the steering wheel to simulate wood. First some brown paint on it, and then some clear orange. I also painted the center of the steering wheel as blue, but Cobra logo is still silver. Then I glued the cauges to the dash, and glued that thing on its place. I also started building the brake lines, but they aren't ready yet. Also installed battery cables to starter and frame. Also painted the body from the "wrong side", now this one is slowly coming together. Only the radiator stuff, and I can install the body. This one is getting close to being ready! Well, the hood must be painted...
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