Real car question

[Nick F40]

I am interested in buying a TE72 Corolla (1980). I was just wondering if theres anyone here that knows about these old Corolla's. Just some good/bad and you knowledge. Really isn't in bad shape just needs some body smoothing and new paint but runs and drives awesome!

Like I said just curious on these old Toyota's. I know about Celicas and the trucks fromthose years but not completely on the Corollas.

[Casey]

The Corollas are pretty similar to the same era Celicas, so they should feel familiar to you.

20R engine?

[Brendan]

Any of the old 80's 4-cylinder from Toyota are good motors. Don't produce a whole lot of horse power but they last for forever. Find out if the person was using synthetic oil. If he was, stick with it. If he wasn't, don't switch to synthetic. The reason being is that synthetic oils are too slick and you can get oil leaks on older used motors. The Corollas have always had a good reputation. Things to look at are CV Joints as they have had problems with them in the past. Also the front wheel bearings.

[Railfreak78]

I agree that the 22R is a fantastic engine! Take care of it well and it will treat you well for a long time. Again like said, They are dogs off the line and such but get great mpg. Cv axles are common to replace but thats almost a given on any front wheel drive car. I used to drive a mid 80's Corolla and the auto was slow. I learned how to drive a stick shift on a late 70's early 80's Corolla wagon and loved it. I now have a 86 Camry (standard) and just hit 300,000 and the only major work that has been done consist of the timing belt and I need to do the clutch and passenger axle. I would jump in this car and go anywhere. Now on the flip side there are some parts that can be expensive such as a throttle position sensor is way more than I expected but thats not something that will go out all the time. Oh and with the high miles I still get 38 miles per gallon on the freeway.

[Nick F40]

haha no this is RWD. It has a 3T-C in it with I think an SR5 trans.

The engine runs great and everything seems to work great. Love the wasy it sounds! Not sure on the oil.

I know what it's like to drive a car with over 300,000 miles my MKII GTI has over 359,000, runs great though!

[lordairgtar]

http://www.japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/index.php?sid=69784735ef45ede4f8c0000df8f81450

This site has a lot of older Japanese car enthusiasts on it.

[CAL]

An old carborated twin cam?

[Nick F40]

An old carborated twin cam?

Nah, just single cam, pushrod even!

Thanks for that Gregg, I forgot about that site!

[Joe Handley]

I was talking to somebody form my gym who builds race cars the other day and he's working on an '83 hatchback drag car right now. Sounds like it's a heavily reinforced back half car and is even going to keep the same gen motor that will probably be turbocharged, injected, burning E-85 once he get's to that.

[Nick F40]

Yeah, supposedly these 3T motors can withhold a turbo with stock insides nowthats tough but not sure on that! I'll stick to side drafts or bike carbs

[CAL]

Just put a T-belt and wp on it and it should be good.

Oh wait, I guess not even that...

Edited December 20, 2010 by CAL

[Joe Handley]

Yeah, supposedly these 3T motors can withhold a turbo with stock insides nowthats tough but not sure on that! I'll stick to side drafts or bike carbs

If the way Dino builds this car's engine is anything like he's been building the chassis, it won't be very stock inside or out

Edited December 21, 2010 by Joe Handley

[Longbox55]

The reason being is that synthetic oils are too slick and you can get oil leaks on older used motors.

That's incorrect. The real reason that putting synthetic in older engines that were run on conventional "causes leaks" is that there was an oil leak there to begin with. With conventonal oil, especially around the crank sleals, there tends to be a varnish buildup that "seals" the leak to a degree. Synthetic oil tends to have a much higher detergent level that conventional, which will clean out any varnish buildup, making it seem as if the synthetic "caused" the leak.

[Railfreak78]

Not to mention the fact that you are NOT supposed to do an engine flush on a high milage car. It will make it leak oil if it didn't before. I worked for Mobil-1 Lube Express as a pit guy for a while and we refused customers wanting engine flushes on high milage cars due to liability. I've used both conventional and synthetic in my car with no problems. I prefer Mobil-1 even though I don't work there now but I can't afford it and the only leak I have is my valve cover.